El Arroyo

The focus of our reviews this month will be value. Gas prices are soaring and everything seems to be costing more. But hey, this is Austin, a city of foodies if there ever was one. We need our favorite restaurants the way Ali needed Frazier, the way Romeo needed Juliet, the way Bush needed Karl Rove. So this month we’re going to tell you where to go so that your palate and your wallet will thank you.

El Arroyo, on W. 5th St., has been known to several generations of UT students as “The Ditch.” Proprietor Clay McPhail is famous for his daily dose of trenchant wit displayed on the sign outside. But he’s equally known for dishing up some seriously good and reasonably priced Mexican foods.The fertile mind of the Ditch Meister has concocted dishes like the Mexican Crab Rolls served with Jalapeno jelly.The first time I tried these, I was tempted to shout “ole!” This is serious flavor. And how about the Ditch Fries? Done of the grilll with jalapenos, onions and low sodium soy, they are irresistible. There’s nothing quite like them in town. And for an interesting spin on a Tex-Mex classic, try the Spinach Queso made with white cheese and mild peppers. The taste here is mellow but with a bit of zing from Popeye’s favorite veggie. It’s a winner.

El Arroyo is also known for its burgers. Clay has a new one called the Cuban Burger. If you like spice, you’ll love this. The burger is coated with a piquant sauce and then pressed as if it were a pannini. Add cheese and you have instant burger bliss. Also new on the menu is a lovely Flat Iron steak done in a tangy brown sauce and served with enchiladas and rice. No more Tampequena for me: I’m hooked on the terrific flavors this dish provides. And the Stuffed Avocadoes will make you a believer. Stuffed with a spiced chicken, it’s lightly breaded and flash-fried and served with a creamy avocado sauce and a dash of chipotle.

I’ve always loved the seafood at El Arroyo. My favorite is the Enchiladas del Mar. You begin with two flour tortillas stuffed with seriously fresh lump crabmeat along with shrimp that have been sauteed in a Mornay sauce and covered with jack cheese. The result is magical. And the Shrimp Cielo is also a killer. I like the way they pan sautee the shrimp, it enhances the texture. And then they finish it with heavy cream, chipotles and sour cream. Wonderful taste components here. And the Shrimp Mexicana will flat out rock your world, baby. This dish is ratcheted up a couple of notches as the camarones are sauteed with tomatoes, peppers, and onions and finshed with bell peppers, sour cream, two cheeses, and an excellent ranchera sauce.

Craving fajitas? El Arroyo has some of the better ones around. The beef and the chicken are my favorites and the restaurant has managed the delicate balancing act of making sure the accompanying veggies stay crisp and don’t get inundated with oil as can sometimes happen.

And new on the dessert scene is a must try: The Chimichanga Cheesecake. The dish consists of home-grown cheesecake served in pastry rolls and covered with ice cream. It is a show stopper to be sure.

El Arroyo is the perfect spot for value-conscious Tex-Mex lovers. It’s at 1624 W. 5th and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Clay also has gluten-free dishes available. Who knows, you might even become immortlized on that infamous sign!