III Forks has long been a Balon family favorite. From its delightful steaks and seafood to its warm and inviting ambiance, this place has stood the test of time in extremely competitive downtown steakhouse environment.
The first thing you notice about III Forks is the continuity between the front and back of the house. GM Brian and AGM Ernest keep things smooth up front while chef Adrian (who also cooked at the former Cool River) works his magic in the kitchen.
The steaks at III Forks have always been good and the foundation of their brand. I’ve always enjoyed the 24-oz Bone-Ribeye. But the new menu goes much farther on the steak front. They’ve added a number of Wagyu steaks, from a stellar and impeccable NY Strip to the monstrous and equally delicious Tomahawk Ribeye. Admittedly they are pricey: ranging from the NY Strip at $86 to the Bone-In Tomahawk at $190. But they can all easily feed several people. And the tastes and textures of these steaks are astonishing. The NY Strip arrives on a wooden platter along with accompanying flame for effect. But the first bite told me all I needed to know: a melange of irresistible flavors reflective of a classic steak with the proper amount of marbling. The Tomahawk was almost beyond your dutiful scribe’s ability to characterize. It is in the steak world what a Monet is to the art world.
While my favorite Dover Sole has regrettably been removed the menu, the Chilean Sea Bass is a tender and very tasty replacement. Likewise for the Scallops. They are grilled to perfection and presented in a lemon burre blanc sauce. Very nice dish.
The appetizers have also ramped up. My new favorite is the Wagyu Beef Cheek and Roasted Bone Marrow. This is served with a seasonal mostarda and warm brioche. My first thought was that I would have liked a more seasoned mustard (perhaps a Dijon) but upon several more tastes and a bit of reflection, I concurred with the original choice. It was the right complement for the stunningly tasty marrow.
The Hudson Valley Foie Gras in the classic torchon style is another home run, so to speak. Smooth texture not the least bit redolent of the taste of liver that we all used to dread ad children.
One final note: the service at III Forks is almost uniformly good. On our last visit Mick, an Irish transplant provided a seamless evening with an occasional well-timed bon mot. The in-house Sommelier also has created an impressive wine list particularly suited to both the steaks and the seafood.