Athenian Grill

Athenian Grill

I cannot tell you how many emails and calls I’ve received over the past year asking when the Athenian Grill was going to reopen in its new location on W. 6th St. Ditto for our Food Friday show on 590 KLBJ-AM.

Well, I am pleased to report that once again downtown Austin has a full-service Greek restaurant. The Athenian Grill has reopened across from Ruth Chris steakhouse on W. 6th between Colorado and Congress. Anil Simicia worked tirelessly for over a year to put this deal together, without may I add, any “forgivable loans” from the city council.

The thing I love about the Athenian is that the tastes and flavors are authentic. They are redolent of the restaurants of my youth in New York and Connecticut. The Dolmades, the classic grape leaves stuffed with rice, ground beef and a boatload of complementary spices are the perfect appetizer. The Saganaki is another dish that will light up your dinner: literally and figuratively. The sheep cheese is flamed at your table (and then doused with a squeeze of lemon) and I think it enhances the flavors. Opa indeed! I also love the Hummus (pureed chickpeas). On the surface, the thought of pureed chickpeas does not set one’s heart leaping, but as you get into that first bite, the tahini, garlic, and olive oil all makes it work. Served with fresh warm pita and kalamata olives, well it certainly works for me. And please make it a point to try the Athenian Chicken Salad. The key to this salad is the moistness of the chicken breast: from roasting on the vertical broiler. The marinade imparts a searing yet comforting flavor and it blends beautifully with the veggies (hint: order extra red onions!).

One of the delights of dining in a Greek restaurant is the unbridled appreciation of lamb. The Roasted Leg of Lamb is one such delight. The dish consists of a roasted leg of lamb wrapped in filllo dough and feta cheese. They served this at a Gonzo dinner just before the original Athenian was forced to close and it brought the house down. This is the epitome of tenderness. And no trip to the Athenian would be complete without the scrumptious Gyro Platter. The gyro is compressed meat made of lamb, beef and spices. Like the Lebanese Shawarma or the Mexican Tacos al Pastor, the Gyro is cooked on a rotating skewer. The meat is sliced off and at Athenian, it’s placed over veggies with tzatziki. The Athenian Grill’s gyro platter or even the gyro on pita bread are absolutely to die for. And where would life be without the traditional Mousaka? This timeless Greek casserole of eggplant, ground beef, sliced potatoes, and béchamel sauce is smooth, savory, and oozes an abundance of comforting tastes.

When the Athenian reopened, there were people standing in line when they first opened the doors. And for good reason. Everything about this place is genuinely good. It evokes the worth ethic of owner Anil who may get to sleep occasionally but I wouldn’t bet on it. I have for years, and continue to wholeheartedly recommend the Athenian Grill.