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(May 22, 2003)
You've probably all read more than you'd ever care to about the enmity
the South Koreans have for the North Koreans. Indeed, there is a lot
of tension in Korea. But lucky for us the translation of their Korean
cuisine has come through to Austin unscathed. I would like to introduce
you to one of my favorite restaurants: Koreana 12196 N. Mopac on the
access road just south of Parmer Lane.
Most folks' knowledge of Korean food begins and
ends with that spicy cabbage concoction, Kimchi. And Koreana does indeed
have Kimchi. And it's delicious. But there's so much more. Unlike Chinese
cuisine, Korean food is usually served en mass with multiple side dishes.
The number of those dishes is referred to as 3 chop or 5 chop or 10
chop. Luckily Koreana does make a concession to being in Texas. And
the dishes arrive one at a time.
We started with the Mandoo, the ethereal dumplings filled with beef
tenderloin and vegetables. I recommend the pan fried version or Yakki.
Wonderful flavor.
And also a major treat was the Gleaming Mussel Feast. This dish offers
a pate of taste and texture that is stunning. Start with mussels that
are sautéed in garlic, covered with an amazing chili masago cream
sauce, and then baked to absolute perfection. At first bite, the taste
sensations combine to create something worth writing about: the gritty
texture of the mussel along with the exquisite lightness of the sauce.
Ah, now there's originality!
And you must try the Mandoo Soup. The dumplings are presented in a wonderful
beef broth along with green onion stalks and egg drops. The taste of
this soup is riveting. Among the best I've tried in Austin.
Koreans love their BBQ and at Koreana, they call
It Bugogli. I tried the pork. Marinated in a mixture of toasted sesame,
Korean soy sauce, and fresh chopped ginger root, and served with stone
ground chili pepper sauce, this dish was seriously tasty.
Likewise, the Beef Tenderloin Smoked Teriyaki. Again, the marinate is
the key and the byproduct is incredibly tender beef with a smoky, zesty
flavor. We loved it. A strong recommendation is the Jap Chae noodles.
The secret to this dish is the soy-garlic that's tossed with the vermicelli
noodles, vegetables, and tiny morsels of tender beef. Another slam dunk
on the taste front. There is also a full Sushi bar at Koreana and like
everything else here, it is more than worthy of your consideration.
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