I grew up in New Haven, CT with many 2nd generation Italians whose ancestors hailed from southern Italy: particularly from Naples. The soil there is rocky and poor: but it's ideally suited to growing olive trees and tomato plants. So the Italians I grew up with, both at home and in the restaurants they owned, used those ingredients to perfection. They made wonderful red sauces to accompany their pasta: putanescas, marinarias, bolognese, clam sauces.

These were the flavors of my youth. And when I dine at Ciola's on Highway 620 in Lakeway, I am transported back in time to those wonderful flavors I knew. Ciola's is all about family. Founder Dan Ciola took his inspiration from his east-coast uncle Dominic who started the first Ciola's in Virginia back in 1949. Son Tony manages the restaurant (along with the extremely capable John Innes) and Dan's nephew Louie: a CIA trained chef with an exceptionally deft touch, helms the kitchen.

Chef Louie Ciola keeps this family restaurant in fine form

The appetizers at Ciola's are engaging, and in these times of high gas prices, reasonably priced. One of my favorites is the Eggplant Rollatini. The flavor of the baked eggplant slices filled with ricotta cheese and covered with a zippy marinara sauce makes this dish a perennial favorite. Southern Italians love clams (or vongole). And the Clams Ciola features these delightful mollusks baked with bacon, peppers, and garlic. The clams are on the smallish side so I suggest you get a double order. The flavor is spot on: redolent of my mother's kitchen (she excelled at baked stuffed clams). And the Insalata Caprese is always an excellent choice. Who can say no to sliced tomatoes adorned with mozzarella cheese, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and a hint of basil. I would like a touch more balsamic but then, I'm a vinegar fan. The Bruschetta is like most southern Italian fare, a simple dish. This is grilled peasant bread topped with a puree of roma tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and fresh basil. And remember, it's pronounced Brus-ketta, not Brus-chetta.

Southern Italian food is all about pasta dishes. And Ciola's has an appealing array of appealing choices. One of my favorites is the Rigatoni Genzano. This is hard for a kid from New Haven to say no to. You blend al dente Rigatoni with sausage, peppers, marinara sauce and of course, an ample dose of Pecorino parmesan cheese. Beautiful! And how about the Linguine Puttanesca. The piquant flavor of Kalamata olives rules this dish which has a literal translation that suggests something amoral. Well there's nothing amoral about the taste. I love the sauce. Vintage southern Italian. The Penne with Vodka Sauce is a dish that has unrelenting flavor. Louie makes mine with whole wheat Penne (more complex carbs) and the accompanying shrimp and prosciutto create a mélange of interesting tastes.

The meat and fish dishes at Ciola's are always replete with signature sauces and as noted earlier, the deft touch of chef Louie Ciola. Marge and I love the breaded Flounder Limone. Louie insists that the fish be fresh: never frozen. And the result is obvious. The fish is sautéed with capers and lemon butter and the result is a beautifully mellow and texturally perfect dish. My favorite meat dish is the intoxicating Pork Chops and Green Peppers. I am constantly impressed with the tenderness of the pork contrasted with the sweet and tangy peppers. Add just a hint of garlic: it's a shame they can't serve this dish in the frying pan. Because I'd like to scrape the bottom with some bread for the last, lingering bits of the sauce. It's that good.

No dinner at Ciola's is complete without a good bottle of vino. Ciola's has been honored by Wine Spectator for their selection. Whether your taste lends itself to a brunello, a barrolo, chianti classico, a barbaresco or an amarone, Ciola's has them all, with the best vintages. The '97 Montalcino Brunello is to die for.

Ciola's is open for dinner only, seven days a week. Chef Louie has got this restaurant purring like a finely tuned pasta machine. I suggest you avail yourself of the next opportunity to dine there.

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