Ronald Cheng’s Impressive Comeback

I’ve known Ronald Cheng and admired his work for over thirty years, since he and former wife Linda began the original Chinatown on Bee Caves Road in Rollingwood.

Ronald almost single-handedly raised the bar for Chinese cuisine in Austin. No more #6 with egg rolls and fried rice on his menu. You could sample food from all the major regions of China, each with its own distinctive qualities. His presentations were elaborate and ornate. Again, all new to Austin diners. The Jade Dumplings (with minced shrimp) left me stunned when I first tried them. They were, and still are, that good.

Ronald opened and closed several restaurants in the late 80’s, and today has Chinatown Mopac (above Musashino), Chinatown on West 5th, and the recently reopened original store at the same location on Bee Caves.

By any stretch of the imagination you could say that his career has been wildly successful. But this past year taxed Ronald to the breaking point. He went in for simple surgery to remove a cyst and instead, wound up in ICU for almost a month. He lost 40 pounds. When he first called me, I didn’t even recognize his voice. It sounded thin and hollow. Not the robust baritone I was used to. He had to completely give up any sort of alcohol (Ronald loved his Chardonnay), and lead a rather monastic lifestyle as he recovered.

At that point, most people at Ronald’s age would have been content to say that it had been a great run, and it was time to sit back, relax and reflect. But that is not Ronald Cheng. Coming back from a devastating health crisis, he found the energy to plan and direct the rebuild of his gorgeous new restaurant. He was on top of every detail and on opening night he was there in his red Chef’s smock, back in the kitchen, and doing what he had always done best. We came in later that night and sat with him. He looked tired and drawn. Hell, after a night in that kitchen a man half his age would have looked tired. But there was a sparkle in his eyes as he talked about all the fires he had to put out (including a minor flood) the week before the opening. And he smiled as talked about his plans to launch dim sum weekends in early June. And we smiled as some of the new dishes were brought to the table.

Most civilians don’t realize how exhausting opening a new restaurant can be. In Ronald’s case, it has been simply remarkable. This was a comeback for the ages: from physical adversity and culinary ennui. It is something to behold. And quite a story.

Oh, and a really good sign, Ronald is showing signs of petulance and irritability with the health inspectors. My old friend is back. And the Austin Chinese food scene is better for it!