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Rob on Cuisine Rob's Favorites from the Wine
Spectator Grand Tour 2008 Rob's Favorites from the Wine Spectator Grand Tour 2008 When Wine Spectator Editor
and Publisher Marvin Shanken conceived the idea of the "Grand Tour"
back in 2001, the idea was to bring a number of well-known wines, classics
that are hard to find, and new releases all together in one room on
one night. Wine aficionados immediately adopted the idea. And as a result,
the first weekend in May is permanently etched on my calendar with a
trip to Las Vegas at the Venetian Hotel's Grand Ballroom.
This year may have been the best of all. The wines poured were all top-scoring wines. Tragically, I had hyper extended my knee days before the trip but I was not to be deterred. I got one of those scooters one sees in retirement villages and, with the able assistance of fellow Gonzo Art San Miguel, negotiated my way through the teeming masses of wine lovers pretty much without incident. Where to start? Well why not with the always superlative Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 2005. The line was long but people deferred to the gimp on the scooter and we got right through. Wow! This big cab is a treat. Not at all astringent with an exceptional finish and redolent of blackberries and earth. We loved it. This is the highest priced Caymus but one you simply have to try.
Next stop was director and vineyard owner Francis
Coppola's extraordinary Rubicon Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford
'05. The name Rubicon refers to the forbidden Rubicon River
in Northern Italy which Julius Caesar crossed with his army, setting
into motion events which would resonate down through the ages. When
he launched his winery, Coppola, a fan of history, was heard to paraphrase
the remark that the Roman general had made famous: "The die is
cast!"
One of the pleasant value wines we discovered with DaVinci Chianti Riserva 2004. This is a steal at $24.00. It was very mellow for a relatively young Chianti with great mid-palate taste sensations. I was wishing, as I sat in my scooter, that someone would bring me a bowl of pasta to enjoy this with really neat wine.
No visit to the Grand Tour is complete
without stopping by perennial favorite Chateau Palmer. The 2004
Chateau Palmer Margaux is being compared to the stunning 1966.
It was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator.
My vote for best Chardonnay of the show went to Grgich Hill's Napa Valley Carneros 2005. This is a crisp, wine that holds up beautifully over time. They do not allow malolatic fermentation which preserves that aforementioned crispness and adds balance. Winemaker Mike Grgich is a legend in Napa Valley for shocking the wine world by winning a competition in Paris is 1973 (taking down more than one serious Burgundy in the process). Retail cost is about $40.
I was also very impressed with Patz & Hall, another Napa Valley Winery and their Zio Tony Ranch 2005 Chadonnay. This is smooth and silky, a little dryer than the Grgich Hills, but absolutely delicious. It reminded me, strangely, of a White Bordeaux. But I really enjoyed it. Retail cost is about $60.
The Ernie Els Stellenbosch 2004 was our next visit. I've come to really appreciate this cab blend from S. Africa. First because as a huge golf fan, I thought it was cool the Ernie had started a winery. But then I met his partner, Jean Engelbrecht, had the first of many tastings, and my interest in this wine increased exponentially. Engelbrecht comes from generations of South African vintners and was a boyhood friend of Els. Together with winemaker Louis Strydom, they have crafted a marvelous wine. (Rated 91 in Wine Spectator.) This wine has superb length with a pleasant surprise at the end in the form of fruit and spices. $93.00
The wine of the evening for me was the Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 2005. This is a remarkable Bordeaux that will last for easily 20 years. The tannins are velvety and the finish amazing. I got hints of blue and black fruit. Because I was the poor gimp in the scooter, they took pity on me and let me sample more than my allotment. That was very pleasing. There were only 10,000 cases produced so availability may be an issue. Cost is high at $200. But what amazing flavor. If you have an opportunity to taste this wine, do it. You will be delighted!
Other interesting finds, people, and wine notes from the Grand Tour. The Chateau Canon St. Emilion 2000. This is a classic from the vineyard that lies on the celebrated limestone escarpment of the Pieds de Cotes. The wine has great balance. $115.00 The Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2004. This is a stunning example of what the Malbec grape can accomplish when grown in the high altitudes of Argentina. This is 100% Malbec and a beautiful wine with a lengthy finish that shows wonderful minerality with finely grained tannins and lively acidity. Price: $43. I had the chance to drink a lot of this wine at the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival (The Hot Blooded Latins seminar). Goes beautifully with seared meats.
So I'm motoring along on my scooter and someone yells out "Hey Rob!" Now this is in Las Vegas. Well who should be there but June, a waitperson from Uchi and her friend who used to work at the Driskill. Small world, huh? Green Point Yara Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2005. This winery was begun by Moet Chandon to produce sparkling wines and still wines. I love the Chardonnay. It's got a bright, fruity taste with a hint of apricot. It's a perfect wine to go with shellfish, particularly lobster. Price $30.00. After three hours of sipping
and noshing, people just get, well, happy.
The place was packed with wine lovers. But
at least in first couple of hours, most were accommodating to the
gimp in the scooter! We'll definitely be heading back next year. Feel
free to email
me with any questions about the wines discussed. Dining, Wining and Relaxing at Las Colinas in Acapulco Imagine for a moment a villa
dramatically perched on the side of a mountain overlooking Acapulco
Bay. Let you mind run further to a world-class chef available at your
beck and call, to a bartender of great creativity and skill, and a house
manager whose efficiency is rivaled only by her pleasant demeanor.
That about sums up our recent trip to Las Colinas, a five-bedroom villa in Acapulco. Every day our biggest responsibilities were to determine when we wanted our meals and what we wanted to eat. The rest was left to the amazing staff. Most days we arose between 9 and 9:30am, but if we arose at 10 it didn’t matter. Fresh brewed coffee was always waiting for us and breakfast was when we wanted it.
A typical breakfast might have consisted of a fresh fruit platter with papayas, multiple varieties of sweet mangos, watermelons, green melons, and pineapples. Later would come bacon, omelets made to order, incredible refried beans, homemade corn tortillas, chimichiles, and the sweetest most piquant pico de gallo that I’ve ever tasted. On alternate days, chef Leo made the most amazing French toast stuffed with bananas and cream cheese.
Lunch again occurred when we cared to have it. No timetables were set. A typical lunch might have been an astonishing mushroom soup, chalupas with pico de gallo, guacamole, and a tomatilla salsa, along with Mexican rice and refried beans (I could not get enough of these beans). Or we might have been treated to asparagus soup, cheeseburgers with homemade papas fritas (French fries), and a lovely fruit salad. Whatever we wanted, all we had to do was ask and the staff would buy and prepare the food.
Dinners were served in a dining room constructed over a massive boulder that overlooks both the pool and the Acapulco skyline. Again, dinner was whenever we wanted it. The first night we began with an amazing cream of celery soup, a sparkling salad, and some of the best Chille Rellenos we’d ever tried. Dessert was homemade Key Lime Pie and it was to die for. Another night the menu was a cool Avocado soup, a calamari salad, and an exquisite pan fried Sea Bass with fresh green beans and scalloped potatoes. Dessert was a killer flan.
And so it went: each meal more spectacular than the next. We picked out wines at the local wine store and drank several bottles each night that would have cost 200% more has we ordered them at a local restaurant.
The time in between the scrumptious meals was spent swimming in the pool that overlooked the bay, playing games in the spacious and totally comfortable outside living area, and ordering Rum Punches, Cervesas, Pina Coladas and whatever else we wanted from Fredo. We played games, read, watched videos, and totally indulged ourselves in one of the most beautiful weeks we’d ever had. Oh, and did I forget to mention the masseuses who were at our beck and call for just $25 for a 50 minute massage? The ladies went nuts over Raquel and her hand made jewelry (she put on a show at the villa).
So if you’re getting the picture here, with the exception of a short excursion to the Mirador Hotel to watch the famed cliff divers, we did not leave the Las Colinas compound for 8 days. There was no reason to. And trust me, if you are looking for beautiful accommodations, fine dining, and serene blissful days: in short, a really relaxing vacation, then Las Colinas is your destination.
.
Alas, it’s time to leave. Where did the week
go? For more information, go to www.theriotvillas.com.
Double Dave’s is a bit of an improvement and Pizza Hut can sometimes actually be surprisingly edible. Papa John's has improved, I’ll say that for them. Truth is though, that most of these pizzas must be eaten quickly. Time does not serve them well. And none of them can pass the refrigerator test. And I am still trying to figure out what the hell is so special about California Pizza Kitchen? The name? That’s all I can think of. Or perhaps that it’s at the mall. Shoppers are strange: they will eat average pizza because it’s where they are shopping.
Moving up, even though it’s a national chain, you have to give some props to Buca di Bepo. Their Margherita pizza is pretty darned good. I’m also starting to really like the pizzas at Craig O’s which has two locations on 290 and Balcones. Local chain Mangia makes a good deep dish pie but I’m not a big fan of that genre. But I’ve heard many good things about their pies from deep dish fans. Austin’s Pizza has declined a bit since their sale and downsizing, but they are still pretty good. Another good recommendation is Southside Pizza on S. Congress (442-4246).
Moving still much further up the food chain, I really like Mangieri’s in far S. Austin at Slaughter and Escarpment. This is a family-owned spot and their whole wheat crust is the bomb. In fact all their crusts are delightful. And do make it a point to try Rounder’s on W. 6th. Their garlic knots are amazing and the pizza is very tasty. Also very good is East Side Pies over in east Austin. Serious east coast sensibilities here. Ditto for Brooklyn Pies with locations in N. Austin, Round Rock and Georgetown. Another recommendation is Arpeggio Grill on Airport just north of Highland Mall (419-0110). And the pizza at Vespaio Enoteca (441-7672), the sister place to Vespaio on S. Congress features wonderfully crisp crusts with interesting combinations. And what’s not to like about the venerable Frank and Angie’s? Don King turned me on to this place and I owe him a debt of gratitude. Also cool sandwiches and tasty cannolis. And Milto’s on Guadalupe has been cranking out excellent pies for a number of years. You want to talk vintage Austin? This it it.
At the very top tier, there are some serious contenders for the crown. Home Slice on S. Congress has become one of my favorites. It’s not quite New Haven, CT quality (as they advertise) but it’s very good. Kudos to them for having the huevos to try and do a clam pizza. Their crusts have classic east coast texture. Available by the slice. A relatively new player on the scene is Salvation Pizza (535-0076) on W. 34th St. (former home of Starlite). These people are from Hartford, CT and they know how to bring it. This is what a sausage pizza should taste like. Saccones, with a new location in Round Rock has vintage NY-style flavors and textures. They’ve been at or near the top of our list since they opened. And deservedly so. You want a gigantic slice of good pizza? Try Ropollo’s on E. 6th St. They get it right almost every time here and they have a walk-up window on 6th. I once ordered the large sausage and mushroom at our office. It must have weighed 10 pounds! The delivery guy had trouble getting it up the stairs. And Brick Oven, the first pizza place I ever really liked in Austin is still doing well. They have locations on Slaughter, Red River and Jollyville and I still love their vegetarian pie. Great flavor! And whatever you do, don’t overlook the pizza at Cipollina on West Lynn. Crispy crusts, wonderful cheese, and great sauces and toppings. The quality of their pies may derive from the fact that they are an overall excellent restaurant that just happens to serve pizza as one of its offerings. Another old favorite still going strong is Reale’s on 183. This family-owned classic has what may be the best pepperoni pizza in the area.
So who is #1? I tell you what; it’s
so close at the top that I can’t make up my mind. But you are
welcome to cast your ballot here. Perhaps
you can help me crown the new king for ’08. By Popular Demand: Rob’s Family Recipe for Stuffed Mushrooms
Grandma Balon’s Stuffed Mushrooms
3 boxes of white or “button” mushrooms.
Larger is better than smaller. Sunday Brunch: Rob's Recommendations
Lajitas: Gourmet Dining in the Middle of Nowhere
There are several culinary themes that run through Al's menu at Ocotillo. The first is the wild game influence that Blank introduced at Hudson's and the second is the indigenous herbs and spices that give the area its unique flavors. I left Ocotillo with a number of favorite dishes. Here are just a few of them that I would consider mandatory tasting for one's first visit.
For more information
on this amazing destination, check out www.lajitas.com. For Your Holiday Reading: A Week in the Life of a Food Critic
Monday Nonetheless, Brenton Childs is a seasoned
pro (from Vespaio) and this
place is going to be good, even without sightings of Sandra. Rob's Healthy Dining Recommendations: Goodbye Guilt! As some of you may know, I've shed about 40 lbs over the past nine months. I've still got a long way to go but progress is being made.
ZUZU: 5770 N. Mopac, Suite 500 Phone: 467-9295 www.zuzuaustin.com Zuzu is a very cool Mexican restaurant
that violates certain tex mex expectations. They don't use lard. They
have killer (low fat) home made corn tortillas. They have great salads.
Even their rice is cooked in a vegetable broth. KORIENTE: 621 E. 7th St. (across from Courthouse) Phone: 275-0852 www.koriente.com Koriente is a vintage mom and pop restaurant
on E 7th that serves some of the tastiest and healthiest food around.
The Kalbi Pot Roast is amazing. Tender and lean beef simmered in wine
and fresh squeezed vegetable and apple juices. With carrots and Korean
radish. Delicious and low in calories. ZEN: Three locations at 1303 S. Congress; 2900 W. Anderson Lane; and 3423 N. Guadalupe. Web: www.eatzen.com When I first started working on my
weight last October, I began to visit Zen on S. Congress fairly regularly.
Zen offers sensible dishes like the Spicy Shrimp Bowl where you get
sautéed shrimp with white and green onions in a spicy sauce over
brown rice. Delicious, low fat, and good for you. The cool thing is that at Zen you can get filled up without paying a heavy caloric penalty. NU AGE: 2425 Exposition Boulevard. Phone: 469-9390 www.NuAgeCafe.com Vegetarian restaurants are not
establishments that, as a rule, I regularly frequent. However, Nu Age
is a pleasant exception to the usual macrobiotic mush that one often
encounters. Their dishes are creative, exceptionally tasty, and sophisticated.
I am absolutely crazy about their Soy Cashew Sautee. This dish features
a stunning medley of fresh vegetables along with cashews and brown rice.
The Verdict on Tipping at Fast Casual Places is in: Feedback from our Readers We got a huge number of responses from readers on the issue of tipping at fast casual restaurants. (Where the customer goes to a board and orders and the food is brought out later.) Responses ranged from Danny in Austin who said he didn’t tip at all because the workers at these places make more than the usual $2.13 per hour than waiters who work in spots where the tips are the main source of revenue. (Don’t know what they actually make.) But Danny’s response was not the predominant one. Nor was the response from Frankie in Marble Falls who suggested that if the wait person showed up at his table at all, he would start at 15% and go up. The majority of respondents said they would tip anywhere from $1-$4 depending on the perceived effort of the wait person. Some said a dollar per diner or somewhat more if drink refills were offered, etc. But generally, it came down to perceived value. And most of you felt that service people in a fast casual environment did relatively little to enhance the comfort and convenience of the customer. But it’s safe to say that
there is, without question, a different (and lower) set of standards
that most Austin diners employ when tipping at fast casual places. Breakfast, if one is to believe the diet gurus, is the most important meal of the day. Our metabolism is the lowest in the morning, and a good breakfast jump-starts our bodies' internal fat-burning mechanisms. So they say.
1. Arkie's. I love breakfast
joints. And Arkie's qualifies. Open since 1948 and located way out on
East 1st St., Arkie's is the kind of chat and chew place where the regulars
don't ever have to be asked what they'll order. The breakfast tacos
are flat out terrific and the omelets are soft and very tasty. Don't A New Dilemma: Tipping At Fast Casual Restaurants OK. You thought you had tipping at conventional restaurants figured out. 15% if average, 18%, if above average, 20% if really good, 25% if outstanding, etc. Many don’t tip after the first $100 of wine. And some don’t tip on wine after the first $50. But the rapid rise of fast casual places has all of us in a dilemma. You stand and peruse the menu as you walk in. You place your order. You pick up some silverware and grab yourself a table. And eventually, someone brings out your food. So, how much do you tip? Managers at fast casual restaurants we talked to, from Pei Wei to Masala Wok said that tipping is wildly inconsistent. Some leave nothing and some leave quite a lot. Here’s my question to you readers... What are your tipping practices and philosophies at fast casual restaurants? Click on the link to respond and we’ll highlight your answers in a future column. City Sees a Surge in Private Dining Options Over the years, most major Austin restaurants have usually always reserve a private dining area. That’s been fairly common. But what is a much newer trend is for restaurants like Chez Zee and Banderas to build adjacent facilities for private dining, and in the case of Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience, to rebuild the former Café Spiazzo into a facility that is dedicated exclusively to private dining.
Stephen Sicola, chef and co-owner of Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience is a fine example of the trend toward private dining. A CIA trained expert craftsman who five years ago might have been helming a cutting edge restaurant open to the public, he has instead opted to concoct his gourmet delights for private groups from eight to eighty. Sicola’s, like Chez Zee and Banderas will also cater. For more information, hit this
link for MENUS and scroll down to PRIVATE DINING. Five Cool Memorial Day Weekend Restaurants Five Cool Places to Eat and Drink and Listen over the Memorial Day weekend. 1. Zax Pints and Plates. [481-0100] Fun little eaterie at corner of Barton Springs and Riverside. I really like this place. Great sandwiches and a killer tortilla soup, lots of micro brews, and it's adjacent to the volleyball courts behind Aussie's. 2. Ski Shores Waterfront Grill [346-5915] Can't beat the setting or the food. Burgers, catfish, and more in an idyllic setting on Lake Austin. We love the Jalapeno Burger. Take City Park Road off 2222 and drive for a while. But you will enjoy. 3. Carlos and Charlie's. [266-1683] Perched right on Lake Travis, Carlos
and Charlie's has seriously upgraded the quality of food and makes for
a fun place to party over the weekend. Sunday, music will be provided
by Matt While, 4. Lucy's Boatyard. [651-0505] Burger and pizza joint brought to you by the folks who own Chuy's and Hula Hut. It's a fun scene The new sky deck is open which has its own kitchen and a killer view of the lake. Hint: for all you boaters who motor up to the place, make sure your batteries are charged. We don't want anyone else drifting over the dam.. 5. The Oasis. [266-2442]. The mother of all views. Overlooking
Lake Travis, the view is so stunning that when the sun goes down everything,
they ring the bell. The food under Sean Bradshaw is terrific. Music
this weekend: Saturday: Haywire. Sunday: The Brew. The Wine Spectator's Grand Tour Event As we all are well aware, Wine Spectator is the 800 pound gorilla of magazines about wine. A high or low rating in this magazine can make or break a new offering; much like a rave or negative review in The New York Times can propel or kill a Broadway show. So when Wine Spectator sets up one of its Grand Tour events, in this case a mega tasting at the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas (featuring two hundred of the world's greatest wines and champagnes from Caymus to Chateau Margaux), the cognoscenti emerge by the thousands. And therein, apparently, lay the problem. We made our way into the formidable ballroom at the Venetian at about 8:15 PM for an event that was scheduled to run from 7-10 PM (tickets went for $175 a person). The first booth we saw was Caymus. Well, that was a no brainer! We headed over to sample their just released 2002 Special Selection Cabernet but were told that, perish the thought, they had run out. Nothing left. Caymus owner and winemaker supreme Chuck Wagner was extremely apologetic, and, it appeared, a bit perplexed as to why the same allotment that had comfortably taken him through last year's Grand Tour was now gone. Class act all the way, he offered to send us a bottle to assuage our disappointment. When he discovered that I was from Austin, he asked if I knew his friend, developer Larry Peels (he of the private humongous wine collection and cellar). Chuck is a very likeable guy. And true to his word. A bottle of the Cab arrived in my office today.
Then we moved on to Dom Perignon. And guess what? Same problem. After one sip of lukewarm champagne, the Dom Perignon booth closed down. They were totally out. We went next door and sampled the Mum's '97 which was excellent. Then we doubled around the corner and tasted the '96 Chateau Margaux. (They actually still had some wine left.) The wine had a very nice nose, but in my opinion, was a bit lacking in depth and complexity. Also had the very last taste of the Chateau Palmer which was excellent.
No sooner had we sat down then a line again started forming at the table in front of us. People were asking for Dom. We began telling folks that there was none left: commiserating with some, comforting others. One lady told us that Dom Perignon had somehow played a pivotal role in her getting married. And that even if we were out, she was OK with that because she had nothing but fond memories and good feelings for DP. Warming to the task, I developed a French accent. "We 'ave no sham-pan" I began to say in my best Charles Boyer accent. When the actual Dom Perignon rep returned to the booth, he was delighted that we were sitting there taking the heat for him. He backed away quickly, no doubt thinking "better them than me."
And after slipping into the some difficult years, the doughty old gal appears poised for a comeback. We tried the 1996 which I found to be full of promise for a glorious future.
Next stop was the Col Solare booth, a neat little vineyard in the Columbia Valley in Washington that is the result of an alliance between Chateau St. Michelle and Marchesi Antinori. Col Solare , which in Italian means "shining hill" was first introduced in 1995. They poured the 2001 for us and it was delightfully elegant for a wine of that vintage. It's a blend of 57% cab, 35% merlot, and 6% syrah.
Next we wandered down to the Niebaum Coppola booth to try their flagship 2001 Rubicon. Franics Coppola named it Rubicon in honor of Julius Caesar's famous quote about crossing the Rubicon River. The Rubicon is a claret that is blended from cabernet sauvignon, the first of which was planted in California in the 1880's by Inglenook founder Captain Gustav Niebaum. The taste was very balanced though nuanced as well with those subtleties only great cab blends can produce. This is a wine worth drinking young. And the Godfather I&II still remains my favorite two movies of all time. And then to Canoe Ridge, another Columbia Valley wine. Diane Boles was a most engaging pourer and there was almost an instant affinity between us and the 2002 Canoe Ridge Vineyard Merlot. This is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. I immediately got the plum and raspberry flavors and aromas along with more subtle tobacco and earth. This became, almost overnight, one of my favorite melots.
By that point, they were flicking the lights on and off in the ballroom of the Venetian. It was time to gather up our notes, our custom wine glasses and head for the door, which of course in Las Vegas, leads directly through the casino. The Grand Tour is a premier event because of the access it affords to so many outstanding wines. And we drank a lot of great wine, but there was a lot that we missed. My suggestions to the Wine Spectator for future events: --Do the math. X number of cases divided
by X number of attendees =?????? Make sure there's enough wine. It's
an outrage that so many wineries were out by 8:15 PM.
For more information on future Grand Tour events, go to the website at www.winespectator.com. Rob's Guide to Owner-Operated Late Night Dining in Austin
Open 24 Hours
Open Past Midnight:
2004 was a very uneven year for the Austin food scene. Despite the repeated and enthusiastic assurances by our local daily newspaper that Austin business was booming, most new owner-operated restaurants in the Austin area, who are dependent on discretionary spending, continued to post less than robust sales. Restaurants reported that many diners were ordering one entrée and splitting it, always a sign that consumers have not completely abandoned the caution that has characterized the past few years. And there was definitely a pecking order that emerged among the upscale restaurants: several were packed most nights of the week (like Eddie V's, Trulucks, Cool River, The Roaring Fork) while other quality newer places like Tintinnio, Thai Tara, Mimosa, Thistle Café, and Zin Bistro played to decidedly fewer crowds. And the comfort food trend continued to percolate in 2004. Moonshine Patio Bar and Grill, on 3rd at Red River continued to pack 'em in, while Hoover's Cooking on Manor Road had another solid year. One should not also over look the success of the Pei Wei fast casual restaurants (from the PF Chang's family). Fast casual is the buzzword right now and you'll see more established restaurants as well adapting their current stores to accommodate this trend. Krispy Kreme, once thought to be invincible, had a tough year in the stock market. Perhaps the lingering systemic problems that emerged during the low-carb craze? And one of the Austin area's true landmarks, Dot's Place, burned to the ground in the fall of 2004. Alas, Dot had no insurance. Several fund raisers netted only $24,000 of the estimated $400,000 she needs to rebuild. This was while the Austin City Manager's office was proposing a forgivable $750,000 loan to the owners of the Midtown Club. Is there some serious inequity here or is it just me? And the anti-smoking crowd scored another victory by getting a May 2005 referendum on the ballot that would create a total and complete ban of smoking at all nightclubs and venues that continue to allow it. My take is this: if an owner wants to make their establishment a smoking venue, they do so at their own risk. Customers will come, or not come, based on their preference. Why do we need to have government step in and intrude on yet another aspect of our lives? And one landmark anniversary of note: Sweetish Hill Bakery on 6th St. celebrated its 30th anniversary. Openings:
Will Packwood, former boy wonder chef at Emilia's, opened "7", a seafood restaurant on S. Congress with former Granite Café chef Sam Dickey. While they may have confused some folks early on with their unique "by the ounce" pricing method for fish, the food is stellar and their little bistro suits the S. Congress vibe. And in the "what were you thinking???" category, Sam Nichimura opened an expansive and sophisticated sushi and Sumiyaki restaurant in Pflugerville called Fuji. In a town that is mesmerized by Cheddars, Fuji didn't stand a chance. It closed six months after it opened and cost Sam most of his life savings. Waterloo Ice House opened up another location of the popular eateries at 2222 and 360 just north of Sienna. They replaced a failed Mexican restaurant and a failed northern location of the Alligator Grill. So far, so good. In March, several major openings occurred. Suzi's China Grill opened a third location on Bee Caves Rd. in Westlake, just up from Mopac. And the sushi bar Silhouette on Congress emerged from the legal detritus of the former Pango's (remember the video-happy owner?) I like Silhouette and hope they do well. There are, however, an abundance of sushi options in the downtown area. And McCormick and Schmick's, a big-time seafood emporium opened at 4th and Congress. They had some big-time service issues early on, but have improved greatly under the new manager (Richard, from Houston). Their food is fresh and quite good and you can order, as we did the other evening, a 3-4 lb lobster if you call a few days in advance. April saw the start of the very cool Colombian flavored Dona Emilia's on 1st across from the Four Seasons. They outgrew their original site on E. 7th and offer a great menu. Try the Arroz con Pollo. You will love it. And at Lakeline Mall, the northern sister restaurant to the famous S. Austin store, The Texican Café, opened with a bang. For my money, you cannot beat their Shrimp Flautas and their Cabrito. Hog Island Deli also kicked off its operations on Lavaca at 16th. Owner Carlo DiMarco is a Philadelphia boy who has brought the secret of the Philly Cheese steak with him to Austin. The Italian Subs are a blast as well. Things were a little slower in May, with the Galaxy Café opening at Slaughter and Brodie in S. Austin. Great little owner operated spot (former managers at Shady Grove). I particularly love their breakfasts. And the Riata Bar and Grill also opened on Riata Bld. in North Austin. In June, at the site of the Iron Chef, Italian Tintinnio came on strong with great food and alas, very few customers. I hope they make it, but something appears to be unfortunate about the Burnet and Research location. Another really good Tepanyaki and Sushi restaurant, Fujiyama, opened on Jollyville across from Brick Oven. Same result as Tintinnio. Like Tintinnio, lots of empty tables early on. They too deserve a better fate. And finally, the Athenian Grille opened in the former site of Jean Luc's Bistro on Colorado. Hooray! Now I can have my Gyro's again and my pastichio. As the summer chugged along, Caribbean styled Aunt Tilly's came on line, featuring Cubano sandwiches, great macaroni and cheese, and other goodies. The setting on Lake Travis is idyllic. Santa Rita Cantina, Eddie Bernal's homage to Tex Mex had its opening on July 16th. It's at the site of the former Tres Amigos on W. 38th. In late summer, Andiamo opened at Burnet and Rutland. Fellow named Giovanni from Virginia who knows how to put out veal and pasta. Not the greatest of locations but the initial buzz is encouraging. And Austin finally got a Waffle House, out near the Airport. This popular little chain is known for the infinite variation of its home fries (smothered, covered, et al) and omelets. Good patty melts as well. In fact, the Waffle House saved our lives last summer on a trip to Destin, Fl. (which has got to be one of the most God-awful restaurant cities in the US). Golden Harbor, a Chinese buffet at I-35 and Middle Fiskville opened in August and closed, like Fuji, several months later in November. Again, decent restaurant but there are a million Chinese buffets in Austin. And a sandwich shop called Castleberry's opened on Barton Springs Rd. I was not overly impressed with their fare on first bite. And our old pal Pizza Nizza moved out its Barton Springs Road location and out to Westlake, in the same shopping center as perennial favorite Bistro 88 and my excellent doctor, Ron Byrd. Early fall saw another spurt of openings. Yet another sushi restaurant, Sushi Japon north of 290 and IH 35, came on-line. Tough location but really good fare, both hot and cold, at this restaurant. Do try it. And chef Opart's Ka Prow, a Pan Asian restaurant, opened on Howard Lane with a scintillating debut. Billy's on Burnet, a burger joint opened in September. As you might imagine, it's on Burnet and it's low key and fun. Out in Cedar Park, a new pizza joint debuted: Bud and Walt's Pizza with a family recipe from Chicago that goes back over 50 years. And at Hancock Center, the southwest-flavored Tin Star, featuring an eclectic array of wraps and really fun food (with maybe the best milkshakes in the city), came out of the shoot with all guns blazing. In October, a very cool breakfast joint opened on Parmer Lane at Metric. It's called The Original Pancake House. It's a chain but franchisee Sue Jahn runs it like she started it all out of her own kitchen. The German pancakes are to die for. And in Marble Falls, the former Wild Horse Grill became Patterson's on Main. The owner has experience working with Wolfgang. How cool is that? And right down the street, 909 Main opened. The food is excellent and the owners designed the restaurant so that, as in Europe, they can sleep and live upstairs. And in a space in Westlake that has housed several restaurants, Sonic opened its first dine-in store. We'll see how that does. In November, we drank the Beaujolais
Noveaus and welcomed Rudino's Grinders to Research and Anderson Lane
and The Indian Palace on Far West. The Indian Palace is family owned
and has the inevitable lunch buffet. But the food is excellent. And
they just got their beer and wine license! The end of the year brought us some great new openings. Bahia Abrigada in Bastrop is the brainchild of Herman von Hapsburg, who was instrumental in kicking off The Thistle Café. This is a restaurant you must try as it blends continental and Caribbean. And Austin's first all-fondue restaurant, the Melting Pot, opened on December 15th on Research just north of Anderson Mill. Neat concept and I particularly enjoyed cooking the seafood in the Coq au Vin broth.. But fondue cooking is a slow, languid process. Not recommended for those in a hurry. And Rocco's Grille opened next to Katz's at the site of what was Ninfas on 6th St. Former manager of Roy's, Patric Mahon, is at the helm and that bodes well. And finally, Juan Mario's out on 620 at the site of the former Calame's came on line in late December. John Innes is the owner here (late of The City Grille) and he knows how to please the palate. I've tried their pizza and it's quite good. Well, that was quite a list of openings, no? Hope they all kick butt and take names, so to speak. But unless things significantly turn around in Austin, I'm afraid that just won't happen. Closings: As I said earlier, the year was uneven. Lots of new openings, but unfortunately, some lamentable closings as well. A few deserved, but most a victim of under financing and the still not robust local economy. Early in 2004, Ray's Steakhouse on
Guadalupe closed its doors. This was a blow. Ray Lemay knew how to do
steaks, veal, and especially chicken fried chicken. His restaurant will
be missed. Another January casualty was long-time Westlake icon, the
Belgian Restaurant. After 20 years in their little restaurant on Bee
Caves Rd, they could never get over the loss of their chef to the now
defunct Girasole. And Dan McKlusky's at the Arboretum shut down, leaving
the 6th St. location alive and well. Another early casualty of 2004
was Café Spiazzo on Parkcrest. They had closed their Westlake
location in 2003 also. And the popular north eaterie UR Cooks ran into
lease problems and closed as well. The springtime saw the closing of Jean
Luc's Bistro on Colorado. Original owner Jean Luc gave way to a fine
chef, Sean Cirkiel (originally of "22"), but alas, this great
little spot is no more. Another huge disappointment was the loss of
the Holiday House. After the vegan-crazed landlord had booted them out
of their former location on Exposition, this Austin landmark moved to
Bee Caves Road and Walsh Tarlton. They barely lasted five months at
that location. Summer saw the passing of yet another restaurant at that ill-fated location of the upstairs restaurant at 35th St. and Jefferson: Pacific Blue. This was the sister restaurant of the excellent Korean spot, Koreana. Good food, but as former owner Collin B and Jean Pierre before him found out, this location is just not a good one. And Crimson, the neat fusion restaurant that had taken over for Gilligan's on Colorado and 5th also closed. This is the kind of restaurant that would have made it in a slightly more sophisticated food city than Austin. And the lamentable Canyonside, at the site of the former Calame's on Highway 620 came to a merciful end. The brother and sister owners made much of Grandma's revered recipes, but the public didn't seem to share their enthusiasm for the old gal's food. Another summer closing was one that was richly deserved: Lim Ting on S. Congress. God, what an awful little restaurant. Not only did their food suck, but they had a rodent problem as well. The owner was clueless as was the chef. The fall saw the closing of long-time |
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