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Rob on Cuisine Rating the "Cuisine"
at Area Gentlemen's Clubs Rating the "Cuisine" at Area Gentlemen's Clubs Breathes there a man with soul do dead who
never to himself hath said, "Let's do lunch at Sugar's."
Let's be honest. Despite all protestations, most guys with a pulse
have from one time to another ventured through the neon facade of
a local Austin gentleman's club. And according to those in the know,
a surprising number of women pop in now and then as well. Aside from what ever else Perfect 10 may have to offer, the food for the most part is damned good and very reasonably priced. Sugar's has a legacy of good food. They used to have this gumbo with duck and Earl Campbell sausage that was so good that business guys used to go there for lunch just for the soup. In fact, when manger Jerrel Chote opened up the late JC's on I 35, he took the chef and the recipe with him and it was one of JC's most popular dishes. Now Don King is back at the helm and the food is still consistent, inexpensive, and very good. How many strip clubs that you know of would attempt a Bruschetta: and moreover, a bruschetta that totally works. Try it a Sugar's. Also like the Hot Kisses or skewered shrimp wrapped in bacon (also frequently called Shrimp Diablo). This one goes down really easily and you can eat it without paying a whole lot of attention to it: if you get my drift. The Gourmet Fish Tacos are a favorite.
The fish filets are served in corn tortillas with avocado, cilantro
and cabbage in a wonderful house sauce. And you've also got to try
the Snapper Louisiane. This is a perfectly blackened snapper
smothered in a shrimp and crawfish butter-cream sauce. Sugar's also
serves an industrial strength BLT that really tastes like a
guy kind of sandwich. I've ordered it several times and never been
dissapointed. One of Austin's oldest clubs, this is another spot where the food has always been consistently good and inexpensive. I've always enjoyed their Fresh Shrimp Cocktails as well as the Crab Quesadillas. The management underwent considerable change over the past few years and I noticed a bit of a downturn in food quality. But that appears to be a thing of the past. Mike Persinger is back and the last meal I had there was quite good. The Rose also serves up a very decent Cheeseburger. I get mine with sauteed mushrooms on the side and the textures and flavors of both are always spot on. The Crispy Chicken Salad sandwich is also creative and really tasty. And don't forget the Thursday special, the Chicken Fried Chicken. Since the demise of Ray's steakhouse, the CFC at the Rose has always been one of my favs around town. So there you have it. Now you can venture
out, should the mood strike, with some tasting ammuntion. If I had
to rank the clubs right now, I'd say Sugar's and Perfect 10 are almost
in a dead heat for #1 with the Yellow Rose coming in third. As for
the rest of the clubs, well let's just say that I'm sticking to my
rule of writing about what I can honestly say I enjoy! Pizza
Wars IV:
To begin Pizza Wars in years past I spent precious space trashing most of the national pizza chains. This year I will eschew what had become a colossal waste of time and totally redundant exercise. By and large, they still suck with Domino's being by far the worst. This year I will concentrate on local Austin pizza joints and see where that takes us. The downtown and So. Congress area is filled with very acceptable and credible pizza joints. The Austin Onion is a fun and quirky little spot on W. 5th across from Kenichi. Open late and with a thin crust, the pies are not great but pretty darn good. Not far away on 6th St. is the old standard Ropollo's. You can order at the take-out window and they also have a trailer location on 4th at Colorado. Good, huge pies. Once an extra-large pie delivered to my office and the kid had trouble carrying it up the stairs: it was that big! But big or not, the flavor is there. Another good spot is Rounders on W. 6th. Very good pepperoni pie and wonderful garlic knots. The crusts on the pizzas here are a cut above. And what's not to like about the venerable Frank and Angie's? Don King turned me on to this place and I owe him. The white pizza with garlic is pretty darned impressive and my daughter Jenn's favorite. Local chain Mangia makes a good deep dish pie but I'm not really a fan of that genre. And Austin Pizza's has taken an upward turn since the last Pizza Wars. Since trimming the number of their stores, their consistency has improved. And with pizza, consistency is everything! Also let's not forget the always dependable Milto's on Guadalupe. They were one of the first to bring a pie with east-coast sensibilities to the downtown area and they haven't let up. And down the street is very good newcomer the Mellow Mushroom. My only regret is that when I was a professor at UT, with an office at 26th and Guadalupe, the Mellow Mushroom was not then across the street. Very good calzones as well. Heading north on Guadalupe, you exit at 34th St. for Salvation Pizza. One of the owners has CT roots, from Hartford, and Chef Eric, formerly of Fleming's has shown that he can adapt to pizza. Man, this is a great pie. Had a sausage, mushroom and onion that was almost explosive with flavor. And more importantly, the crust was damn near dead-on New Haven. After forty- five minutes of nibbling, the crust was still crispy and malleable: an imperative for great pizza. Better still, the left-overs held up to the refrigerator test the next morning. You know, first bite cold out of the box. Home Slice has quickly become one of the most popular pizza joints in the city. This S. Congress emporium makes a hell of a sausage and mushroom pie and the crust is very close to New Haven quality. And while they claim to have New Haven quality clam pizza, in my opinion, they do not. Nothing ignoble about that because nobody else down here does either.! But Home Slice rocks. Great salads as well. Just up S. Congress from Home Slice is Southside Flying Pizza. Their Greek Pizza sparkles and I really like the Margherita Pizza as well. And praise the gods, they deliver! Completing the triumvirate on S. Congress is the pizza at Vespaio Enoteca. The Calebrese Sausage pizza is simply stunning! The Quattro Formagi is one of the better versions of this pie around the city. Then we move over to the east Side for the inestimable East Side Pies. This is another newer pizza joint with Neapolitan styles that really rock. Very popular with students and the SXSW crowd! Popular with our family as well. And no story on Austin pizza could be complete
without mentioning local chain Craig
O's. From his first store at Mopac and 290, founder Craig
Plackis has expanded to six stores with the latest in Georgetown and
San Marcos. The pizza is good as is the antipasta and the pastas. Just north of downtown is a new player on the scene, Gabriel Pellegrini's Sagra Trattoria. Again, not a pizzeria but their pies deserve mention. The classic Sagra pizza with tomato sauce, egg, pecorino, mozzarella and truffle oil is one of my favorites. The restaurant recently closed for lunch to focus on dinners only. Good move for them, if you ask me. Ciola's did the same thing several years ago and they wound up much better off for it. And of course we can't forget the venerable Brick Oven on Red River. This was one of the first serious pizzerias in Austin. I still love their veggie pizza. The pies are still good after all these years, but the competition is catching up. And over on W. Lynn, no examination of pizza in the central are would be complete without a look at Cipollina, the sister restaurant of Jeffrey's. This is not a pizza joint per se, but the pies they do offer up need to be taken seriously. Try the Prosciutto and Goat Cheese. This one bursts with flavor. Moving further south, the folks at Circle C finally got something to eat with the advent of Mangieri's on Slaughter at Escarpment. Piper and Tony Mangieri serve up New Jersey style pies that are damned good. I love the whole wheat crust at this family style place. And store #2 is about to open in Lakeway. Moving further out north, there are several good possibilities. Reale's on Research at Anderson Mill has been around since before they tore up 183 for what seemed like 90 years. This family-owned restaurant was one of the few to survive the construction and their regulars got them through it. That says a lot. So does their Pepperoni Pizza. And farther out, toward Round Rock is the small
local chain called Brooklyn
Pies with locations at La Frontera Mall and at Far West. They
have huge pieces by the slice that emulate, well maybe not Grimaldi's,
but something you'd find in Brooklyn. Neat stores. Then let's move down to the Hill Country Galleria in far Southwest Austin. A recently opened pizzeria called Tony C's, adjacent to the Movieplex, is packing them in. This is a coal-fired brick oven which can bring the temperature to 850 degrees. That makes for crispy, smoky crusts which impart east coast sensibilities to the flavor. Although just opened, it is climbing like a hit record up the charts with a bullet! Watch out for Tony C's. Try the Donato with sausage and coal fired peppers. Yum! This is owned by Tony Ciola of Ciola's in Lakeway. And down the street on Highway 71 is Yaghi's
New York Pizzeria. While Yaghi may not be a New Yorker, he's
figured out how to make a very decent pizza. He does a serious take-out
business. And let's not forget Giovanni's,
the little silver trailer off South Lamar next to Phoenicia Deli and
Bakery. They make a high quality pizza with serious NYC overtones.
You can also get some pasta dishes. This is one place that I wish
would expand so I could sit my big ass down and more properly enjoy
their food. And we also need to add the latest newcomer to
the pizza fray: Corvina
up in Round Rock. This is the area’s 2nd coal-fired oven and
while they have just recently opened, they are smoking hot. Seriously
good pies here in the hands of a pizza man who knows what he’s
doing. This is a big plus for Round Rock dining. So there you have it. And now I suppose you want rankings. Well, what the hell. Everybody always does. So, if I had to rank a top five, and it would be a very difficult task, all the following would be included: (please note that the following are pizza-first restaurants only). Home Slice, East Side Pies, Tony C's, Salvation Pizza, and Saccone's. And now of course we have to coronate a #1! Well, for the moment, it would have to be Salvation Pizza. Their work has matured and their product is just marvelous. My favorite pizza at full-menu Italian restaurants would be found at Vespaio Enoteca and Sagra Trattoria. So until the next Pizza Wars, as my aunt used to say, may your life be an Abudanza! Rob’s Recommended Dishes: Part II The Steamed Clams Posillipo at Ciola’s. Steamed little neck clams in an amazingly tasty red sauce. This is beautiful for dipping bread after the clams have disappeared. Originally part of the menu for “Sinatra Week” but held over by popular demand.
The Drunken Noodles at Chon Som on Wells Branch Parkway. The subtle tastes of this dish will win you over. I can’t get enough of it.
The Mirin Sea Bass at Yama Sushi Grill on Highway 620 in Round Rock. One of the more classic versions of “butterfish” that you’ll find in the city. The texture is impeccable as the taste.
The Crab Salad Tower at Stories at the Hyatt at Lost Pines Resort near Bastrop. The dish blends fresh lump crabmeat, hearts of palm, avocado, roasted tomatoes and a herb coulis. I have never tasted anything quite like it. Worth the trip.
The Scallops Wrapped in Bacon at III Forks. Yes, the restaurant is known for steaks, but the Scallops Wrapped in Bacon is a show stopper. Chef Jamie Gutierrez continues to just get better.
The Low Country Crab Soup at Steiner Ranch Steakhouse. This is a vintage Carolina low country recipe that flat-out rocked my world when I first tried it last month. Wonderful flavors.
The Veal Porcini at Andiamo. This is about the tastiest and most consistent veal dish I’ve tried in the city. The mushrooms are a delight and the sauce is irresistible.
The Greek Chicken Salad at El Greco. This is a salad worth fighting for. Generous chunks of feta cheese with a piquant vinaigrette dressing tossed in a mound of veggies and savory chicken. And make sure to try the Baklava as well. It’s the best in town. Ask for Chef Jake and tell him I said hi!
The Pastrami Reuben at Manny Hattan’s. Now this is a Reuben. The meat is tender and very tasty. The bread is beautifully grilled and the sandwich is mountainous. Reminds me of the old Star’s Deli in NYC at 53rd and Lexington except the wait staff at Manny’s is must nicer.
The Pork Potstickers at Shanghai. Chef Raymond Yim knows how to make a potsticker. A little soy, a little chili oil, and you have a feast. There’s so much flavor in that first bite that it’s almost indecent!
The Picanha at Estancia Churrascaria. In Brazil, Picanha is considered to be the premium cut of the cow, preferable even to the filet. Estancia Churrascaria, which means House of Meat, is Austin’s first Brazilian BBQ and it is amazing! Recommendations: Some of Rob's favorite dishes The Paella at Segovia restaurant out at the Y at Oak Hill. This is moist, with that classic paella flavor featuring clams, scallops, lovely shrimp and sausage. This is one of the best paellas around.
The Lobster Tacos at Iron Cactus. I am one who usually wants my lobster with drawn butter period! But when I tasted the lobster tacos at the Iron Cactus at the Hill Country Galleria, I was knocked out. The flavor is amazing.
The Shrimp Mojo de Ajo at Verdes on Hamilton Pool Road. If you like shrimp, and you want something that will quite literally melt in your mouth, the Mojo de Ajo at Verdes will make you a believer.
The Carnitas at Los Pinos on Hudson Bend Rd. Lost Pinos is this little gem of a restaurant that serves the most interesting and tasty carnitas I’ve ever tried. Chef Margarito Maldanado is at the helm here and he is good!!!!!
The Dragon Rib at Imperia on Colorado at 4th. Wow! Chef Joe Tellus has coaxed more flavor out of a short rib than may be humanly possible. I can’t stay away from it. Add the lobster mashers and you are in culinary bliss.
The Eva Longoria Pasta at the Latin Café on Cesar Chavez. Formerely Dona Emilia’s, the Latin Café sizzles with interesting new flavors. This is a seasoned shredded beef with a criollo sauce, caramelized onions and bowtie pasta. No wonder Eva gained so much weight on Desperate Housewives!
The Sagra Pizza at Sagra Trattoria on 1610 San Antonio. This is a great pie that blends tomato sauce, eggs, pecorino cheese, spinach, mozzarella cheese and just a skosh of truffle oil. This take me back to Wooster St. in New Haven.
The Escargot at Louie’s 106 on 106 E. 6th St. If you love the aromas and delicate tastes of well-made escargot, then look no father than Louie’s 106. They’ve made our top 20 for a reason. The escargot are sautéed in garlic and white wine and served with herb walnut butter And then dipping with sourdough bread is just over the top.
The Whole Maine Lobster at McCormick and Schmick’s (downtown at 4th and Congress and at the Domain). This is one place where size does NOT matter. Want a 5 pounder? Just call ahead a few days and it can be done. The bigger the lobster, the sweeter the meat.
The House Bacon Panini at Taste
Select Wines on Cesar Chavez is Bill McGory IV at his best! Add
the roasted tomato aioli and the arugula with fontina cheese. Oh my!
Pair it with a nice glass of Pinot Noir and all is well! Recommendations: Last Minute Thanksgiving Suggestions
The Veranda at Northcross Mall each Thanksgiving Sam Kattan manages to pull off something more spectacular than the last year. People are stlll buzzing about the ’07 Thanksgiving. He’s at Northcross Mall at the former Hooter’s location. And lost some visibility because of all the construction. But don’t let that deter you. He has availability. The Latin Café. Formerly Dona Emilia’s, the Latin Café has lower price points and broader culinary target, embracing the whole of Latin America. Wonderful food and they’re going to be doing a deep-fried turkey along with all the other goodies. They will have availability. The European Bistro in Pflugervlle has fantastic Thanksgiving dinners. And there’s usually availability. Anni and Peroska have one of the finest, yet unfortunately most undiscovered, fine restaurants in the area. Ask for Anni when you go and tell her I said hello. The Bakehouse is one of the best value restaurants around for Thanksgiving. They’ve catered many of our infamous Christmas parties and always to rave reviews. Carl does a great dinner for only $12.95 for adults. Judge’s Hill Restaurant is high-end dining at its best. Impeccable food from the folks who brought you a Sterling Affair. Pricey but worth every penny. McCormick
and Schmick’s at the Domain is doing the more traditional
Thanksgiving dinner than their downtown sister restaurant. Turkey
et al for only $19.95. Now that’s not bad. Recommendations for the Weekend: Mexican (as opposed to Tex Mex)
Azul Tequila on Ben White next to Target has been a long-time favorite. Their Cochinita Pibil is as good as you can find in central Texas. Also love the Chile Relleno with an almond cream sauce.
Los Pinos is on Hudson Bend Road just past the dam off Highway 6720. Chef Margarito Maldanado prepped at Mirabelle for 8 years and he is at the height of this talent. The Carnitas are amazing! They also do beautiful breakfast tacos each weekday morning.
Iron Cactus has long been a favorite for their mesquite grilled dishes. The Carne Asada con Adobo is amazing! And they’ve added a new dish: Lobster Tacos. Now I’ve always thought that the only way to eat lobster was steamed and dipped in drawn butter. Guess what? I’ve found a new way. Iron Cactus has also opened a new location at the Hill Country Galleria across from the Town Hall.
Fonda San Miguel is the dean of all Mexican restaurants in Austin. Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago have created something with staying power. The Sunday brunch is one of the best in the city. The Camarones (shrimp) in Chipotle is a perennial favorite as is the Chuleta de Cerdo (pork chop). And do try the Sopecitos de la Casa.
Manuel's is another long-time favorite. The first time I had their Queso I was blown away. They use Monterrey Jack cheese, tomatoes, poblanos and onions and you become addicted to this. They also make a green mole that I actually like (and I am not a mole fan as a rule). This is a popular spot for business lunches.
El Sol y La
Luna is the kind of place that will lift up your spirits on any
visit. Nllda de la Lata is a gracious and knowledgeable owner and
she runs a tight and tasty ship. Great weekend brunches and the Shrimp
Enchiladas with sour cream on Fridays are over the top. I also love
the Gorditas! Recommendations for the Weekend: Places to take the kids
Jason’s Deli has six Austin locations and tell me a kid who doesn’t enjoy a visit there. When Rusty Coco, one of the founders asked my daughter Lauren how long she’d been going there, she replied without hesitation: “Since I’ve been alive!” My kids always loved the free soft ice cream machine that was the imperative signature to the end of the lunch or dinner. Dan’s Hamburgers is a kid favorite if I ever saw one. Winner of our FOX 7 “Best Cheeseburger in Austin” a few years ago, they have kept up their good form as my recent visits there have confirmed.
Hoover’s Cooking is another joint that kids and parents find very appealing. With locations at Manor and Research, Hoover Alexander is one of the nicest guys and best cooks you’ll ever find. No kind can resist his cornbread or his incredible mac and cheese. The adults can’t lay off the Smothered Porkchops or the Chicken Fried Steak.
Mighty Fine Burgers also seems to appeal to both generations. The cheeseburgers are amazing and the fresh cut fries are a must with the younger set. I actually saw two kids on my last visit, about 7-8 years old, wolfing down the fries and running back up to get another order. The atmosphere is totally kid friendly and they squeeze their own lemonade there.
1626 Café on S. Manchaca is another local kid spot. The pizza is quite good, the burgers are bodacious and real [that has a familiar ring to it] and on top of that they have a cool game room. If ever there was a place where families were fated to spend time together, it’s 1626 Café.
Pok-e-Jo’s is a BBQ joint that I get great feedback on from parents who take the little ones there. They have multiple locations and the chicken, always a kid favorite is moist and tender. They also love the baked potato casserole. For the adults, Pok-e-Jo’s delivers some seriously good BBQ.
So sample some of these this weekend. Your kiddos will thank you and you’ll be pleased as well. And remember, you COULD have been dining at Chuck E Cheese. Recommendations for the weekend: Let's do Asian Here we are approaching another fall weekend. For some reason, as the weather quickens, my yearning for Asian foods always ratchets up a few notches.
So where to go:
How about to 2013 Wells Branch Parkway and Chon Som (means spoon and fork in Thai)? Nat and Alicia really know how to create some mouthwatering dishes. I love the Drunken Noodles and all the sushi is fresh and reasonable. Plus Chon Som is a genuinely fun place to spend an afternoon or evening.
Another very cool place to go is Tomodachi at 4501 W. Pamer (up from Cool River). Owner Steve Riad worked at the uber hot Nobu in Los Angeles and the guy knows how to slice fish! This is the real deal for Sushi and Japanese. 821-9472.
Newly opened at the Triangle off 47th and Lamar is a wonderful new restaurant called Yume. The concept is a fusion of Japanese and Island (Caribbean) fare and it absolutely rocks. You can try dishes from the fattiest toros to a mellt-in-your-mouth yucca patty. Oh and do try the Chocolate Coffee Rub Pork Belly and the Beef Oishi. 407-9001
On W 6th St. across from the Star Bar you’ll find another of my Thai favorites: Thai Tara. Yupa Rushing has crafted a great little restaurant here with wonderful curries, lovely satays, and probably the best Pad Prik King in the city. The Pad Thai is to die for as well. 236-0856.
And how could we forget one of the oldest and certainly the best Chinese restaurant in the city Chinatown Greystone. Ronald Cheng has forgotten more than most chefs know about Chinese food. His Thai Pepper Basil Shimp is to die for, as are the Jade Dumplings and the Vegetable Lo Mein. Oh, and how could I forget the Sea Bass and the Honey Pepper Beef. I could go on but I think you get the point. 343-9307
Chinatown is upstairs from the mother of all Austin sushi bars, Musashino Owner Smokey has tutored such luminaries as Tyson Cole of Uchi and Chef Tatsu of Imperia. In his own kitchen, he is the unchallenged master, in my opinion. 795-8593 Recommendations for the Weekend: Road Trip! It looks like we’re finally going to have one of those classic Texas fall weekends: pleasant temperatures, relatively low humidity; the kind of weekend that makes you want to jump in the car and go.
So what better time than to check out some of our “road trip” recommendations.
In Johnson City, you’ve got to try a marvelous little restaurant called the Silver K Café. It’s owned by a couple who came down to the Hill Country from Seattle to retire. But they just couldn’t handle all the leisure: so they started a restaurant. It’s named after Kaye, the Mrs. In the duo, and the food is terrific. I’ll be posting a formal review in a few weeks but for now, just click on the link to see their website.
In Marble Falls, by all means try Patton’s on Main. This is a local boy makes good story is there ever was one. Chef Patton Robertson, a Marble Falls high graduate, went off to see the world, became a chef, worked for Wolfgang Puck and eventually decided to come back to Marble Falls and open a restaurant. I love this place. Patton works with local growers and features dishes unique to the Hill Country. One of my favs is The Wild Mushroom Soup.
Another must stop on your road trip is Café Mangu in Pflugerville. This is THE definitive Caribbean restaurant in the area with wonderful Yucca Fritters, Lechon Asado (pork loin) and a killer Arroz con Pollo [chicken with rice]. I love this place. The mojo is on the money and the staff is very friendly.
And if you’re heading north on Highway 71 toward Spicewood make sure to grab a bite at Angel’s Icehouse. This is a classic Texas road joint with oodles of tasty comfort food. The Macaroni and Cheese Wedges are a caloric disaster but are they ever good. Ditto for the Chicken Fried Steak and the giagantic Bacon Swiss and Mushroom Burger. There’s live music out back on weekends and a lively bar scene as well. Ask for Mary or Sara, the two cutest restaurant owners around, and tell them we sent you.
And if you’re heading East on Highway 71 towards Bastrop, stop at the Hyatt Lost Pines resort and dine at either the excellent Firewheel Café or their signature Stories restaurant (the subject of this week’s review). Stories is the newest addition to our Top 20 and it’s a sensational restaurant. Check out my review either on our site or click on the FOX 7 archives link and see the TV feature. Great place!
Also, there’s a little pecan store on 71 not far from the Hyatt resort called Berdoll’s Pecan Farm. They’ve got this gigantic flashing neon sign outside and I love the chocolate covered pecans. This place looks like an early Vegas gift shop but the pecans and the pie are excellent. This place is a guilty pleasure. (512) 303-6517 Recommendations for the Weekend: Let’s Do Brunch! Austin abounds with excellent choices for Sunday Brunch: from the very high end of Fonda San Miguel and Trio to the more modestly priced but not less excellent fare at Dim Sum places like Shanghai and Chinatown. Here are some of my favorites:
Trio at the Four Seasons: Still the best brunch in town in humble opinion. Pricey but worth it. Fonda San Miguel. By far the best Mexican brunch in town. Also pricey and also worth it. Iron Cactus. All three locations including the new store at the Hill Country Galleria. Very reasonable brunch ($14) featuring American and Mexican breakfast fare. Café Blue at Volente Beach on Lake Travis. Order off the menu and make sure to try the Eggs Benedict Arnold ($12) or the Devil’s Cove Burrito. Both are terrific. Chez Zee. One of the few restaurants to have both a Saturday and Sunday brunch (9-3pm). Highlights include the Migas, The Crème Brulet French Toast (decadent) and the Omelets. The Oasis. Killer lake views and excellent brunch choices under the watchful eye of Chef Matthew Weyland. I always start with the Paritas and then the Crawfish Benedict! Shanghai. Fantatic dim sum brunches on both Saturday and Sunday from 11am-3pm. John and Raymond Yim know a thing or two this Chinese classic. Rob's Recommendations for the Weekend: Head to the Burbs! This weekend will be chaotic
to say the least in the downtown area. With ACL and a UT home game,
well, do the math.
So to paraphrase Horace Greely, "Go to the suburbs, young man!" There's lots of great dining options outside the downtown area. For Italian, try Andiamo at Burnet and Rutland. Great food and classy atmosphere. For Chinese, head to Shanghai at Middle Fiskville Rd and IH35. Marvelous family food from Raymond and John Yim. For a great steak, by all means go to Cool River on Parmer Lane. I love this place. For Thai and Vietnamese, head out to Bee Caves and Blue Bamboo. Not only is Lan a great cook, she also does pedicures at the shop next door! Talk about multi-tasking. For Mexican, Rosie 's on Highway 71 and a bit further at Hamilton Pool Road, Verdes. Both are Balon family favorites. And over in Lakeway, by all means try the wonderful Ciola's (Southern Italian), Thai Spice (Thai), Pao's (Mainland Chinese) and further up Hwy 620 don't forget the beautifully rebuilt Oasis with a sparkling new menu helmed by one of my favorite chefs, Matthew Weyland. BBQ Recommendations for the Weekend Here is a quick synopsis of
some of my favorites both in and out of Austin.
Rudy's BBQ. The moist brisket is absolutely fantastic. The best in the universe! And, according to a recent study at Texas A&M, it is actually good for you! Also love the St. Louis Ribs and the Creamed Corn. The Salt Lick. Though their white table cloth experiment in Davenport Village failed, the original in Driftwood is still as good as it was in 1969 when it opened! Great sausage, ribs and wonderful potato salad. And the atmosphere is downright bucolic. Also opening, more appropriately, in Round Rock. Uncle Billy's. Just celebrating its first anniversary, Uncle Billy's on Barton Springs blends BBQ with the amazing brews of master Brian Peters. I like the Jalapeno Cheese Sausage and the brisket salad the best. Also really over the top is macaroni and cheese. Try Brian's IPA as well. The Green Mesquite. You want to talk iconic? This place goes back to the 1940's. But today it serves up good BBQ along with burgers and chicken fried steaks. I really like the Sausage Sandwich and the Mesquite Smoked Wings. Seriously good smoked chicken as well. Ruby's BBQ. Anthony Bourdain, the wild man of food, loves this place. And what's not to love? The Cajun Spice Beef Ribs are to die for. The Baby back Pork Ribs are also a blast. On W. 29th St. The County Line. Golfer Ben Crenshaw sends the CL's beef ribs to his pals on the PGA and Champion's tours. As well he should. They are still the best I've ever tasted. Also really enjoy their pork loin. Pok-e-Jo's. A local chain that has a fiercely loyal following. The Sausage is terrific and the Pork Loin is exemplary. And the sides! The Baked Potato casserole is the bomb as is the broccoli salad. Cooper's BBQ. This historic joint in Llano has many things going for it, but the Big Chop has got to be the best. This is a center cut 2" pork chop cooked over mesquite coals. Amazing flavor here. Worth the one hour drive up highway 71 from Austin. Southside Market and BBQ. 123 years old and going strong, this place is probably as famous as Dr. Phil's statue in Elgin. Great steaks and pork spareribs and of course, the best of them all, Elgin Sausage (hot and worth it). Dinner at Trio at the 4 Seasons This is not a formal review:
not just yet. It's more of a reflection, a first-blush reaction, if
you will, of what I suspect will be a permanent resident in our Top
20. It's the new restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel: Trio!
We've been there for brunch several times and I must admit, while the food was still excellent, I was a bit put off by the predominantly orange color scheme. It reminded me of early Las Vegas or the tacky part of South Beach in Miami. I wasn't sure which one. But that was during the day. Somehow, the colors were less garish and more interesting in the evening when we tried our first off-the-menu meal at Trio. And what a meal it was! I have been a long-time fan of the inimitable Elmar Prambs, who helmed the Café at the Four Seasons since its opening and oversaw the transition last year into Trio. He is ably complemented by Sous Chef Todd Duplechan and Pastry Chef Naomi Gallego. We started with several appetizers including an English Pea Ravioli which also included ricotta, corn and morel mushrooms. The flavors here were, as has usually been the case with Chef Prambs, impeccable. We also tried the Crab Fondue served with a crisp bruschetta. This was over the top. The sauce had huge chunks of lump crab in it and I wiped out my ample supply of bruschetta dipping up the delightful mixture. We then tried the very engaging Roasted Beet and Bleu Cheese Salad. The flavors here were lovely. This is one of Elmar's favorites and it shows in the preparation.
Also tried the Trio of Baby Iceberg salad with an herb vinaigrette, Green Goddess, and a balsamic vinaigrette dressings. Crumpled bacon and caramelized onions topped this seriously tasty salad.
The entrees were redolent of the deft touch of Prambs and his crew. Marge had the Sauteed French Dover Sole. Every morsel of this dish was light, flaky, and coated with flavor. And Elmar Prambs would never do a menu without his classic Viener Schnitzel. Nor could I get away from dining at Trio without trying it. And the payoff was ample. The pork was tender and had a very mellow flavor to it. The accompanying Ramp Spaetzles were spot on: the perfect complement to this dish.
The other sides were quite good with one minor exception. I didn't care for the Truffle Macaroni. It was a bit over the top for me with that characteristic truffle taste that can overpower a dish. The desserts were delightful. I tried the Lemon Tart with Fresh Rhubarb and the presentation along with the taste was stunning. We also tried a trio of raspberry, lemon and mango sorbets that went down very easily.
And yes, it was our anniversary. You know, I really like this job!
Rob's Favorites from the Wine Spectator Grand Tour 2008 When Wine Spectator Editor
and Publisher Marvin Shanken conceived the idea of the "Grand Tour"
back in 2001, the idea was to bring a number of well-known wines, classics
that are hard to find, and new releases all together in one room on
one night. Wine aficionados immediately adopted the idea. And as a result,
the first weekend in May is permanently etched on my calendar with a
trip to Las Vegas at the Venetian Hotel's Grand Ballroom.
This year may have been the best of all. The wines poured were all top-scoring wines. Tragically, I had hyper extended my knee days before the trip but I was not to be deterred. I got one of those scooters one sees in retirement villages and, with the able assistance of fellow Gonzo Art San Miguel, negotiated my way through the teeming masses of wine lovers pretty much without incident. Where to start? Well why not with the always superlative Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 2005. The line was long but people deferred to the gimp on the scooter and we got right through. Wow! This big cab is a treat. Not at all astringent with an exceptional finish and redolent of blackberries and earth. We loved it. This is the highest priced Caymus but one you simply have to try.
Next stop was director and vineyard owner Francis
Coppola's extraordinary Rubicon Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford
'05. The name Rubicon refers to the forbidden Rubicon River
in Northern Italy which Julius Caesar crossed with his army, setting
into motion events which would resonate down through the ages. When
he launched his winery, Coppola, a fan of history, was heard to paraphrase
the remark that the Roman general had made famous: "The die is
cast!"
One of the pleasant value wines we discovered with DaVinci Chianti Riserva 2004. This is a steal at $24.00. It was very mellow for a relatively young Chianti with great mid-palate taste sensations. I was wishing, as I sat in my scooter, that someone would bring me a bowl of pasta to enjoy this with really neat wine.
No visit to the Grand Tour is complete
without stopping by perennial favorite Chateau Palmer. The 2004
Chateau Palmer Margaux is being compared to the stunning 1966.
It was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator.
My vote for best Chardonnay of the show went to Grgich Hill's Napa Valley Carneros 2005. This is a crisp, wine that holds up beautifully over time. They do not allow malolatic fermentation which preserves that aforementioned crispness and adds balance. Winemaker Mike Grgich is a legend in Napa Valley for shocking the wine world by winning a competition in Paris is 1973 (taking down more than one serious Burgundy in the process). Retail cost is about $40.
I was also very impressed with Patz & Hall, another Napa Valley Winery and their Zio Tony Ranch 2005 Chadonnay. This is smooth and silky, a little dryer than the Grgich Hills, but absolutely delicious. It reminded me, strangely, of a White Bordeaux. But I really enjoyed it. Retail cost is about $60.
The Ernie Els Stellenbosch 2004 was our next visit. I've come to really appreciate this cab blend from S. Africa. First because as a huge golf fan, I thought it was cool the Ernie had started a winery. But then I met his partner, Jean Engelbrecht, had the first of many tastings, and my interest in this wine increased exponentially. Engelbrecht comes from generations of South African vintners and was a boyhood friend of Els. Together with winemaker Louis Strydom, they have crafted a marvelous wine. (Rated 91 in Wine Spectator.) This wine has superb length with a pleasant surprise at the end in the form of fruit and spices. $93.00
The wine of the evening for me was the Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 2005. This is a remarkable Bordeaux that will last for easily 20 years. The tannins are velvety and the finish amazing. I got hints of blue and black fruit. Because I was the poor gimp in the scooter, they took pity on me and let me sample more than my allotment. That was very pleasing. There were only 10,000 cases produced so availability may be an issue. Cost is high at $200. But what amazing flavor. If you have an opportunity to taste this wine, do it. You will be delighted!
Other interesting finds, people, and wine notes from the Grand Tour. The Chateau Canon St. Emilion 2000. This is a classic from the vineyard that lies on the celebrated limestone escarpment of the Pieds de Cotes. The wine has great balance. $115.00 The Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2004. This is a stunning example of what the Malbec grape can accomplish when grown in the high altitudes of Argentina. This is 100% Malbec and a beautiful wine with a lengthy finish that shows wonderful minerality with finely grained tannins and lively acidity. Price: $43. I had the chance to drink a lot of this wine at the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival (The Hot Blooded Latins seminar). Goes beautifully with seared meats.
So I'm motoring along on my scooter and someone yells out "Hey Rob!" Now this is in Las Vegas. Well who should be there but June, a waitperson from Uchi and her friend who used to work at the Driskill. Small world, huh? Green Point Yara Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2005. This winery was begun by Moet Chandon to produce sparkling wines and still wines. I love the Chardonnay. It's got a bright, fruity taste with a hint of apricot. It's a perfect wine to go with shellfish, particularly lobster. Price $30.00. After three hours of sipping
and noshing, people just get, well, happy.
The place was packed with wine lovers. But
at least in first couple of hours, most were accommodating to the
gimp in the scooter! We'll definitely be heading back next year. Feel
free to email
me with any questions about the wines discussed. Dining, Wining and Relaxing at Las Colinas in Acapulco Imagine for a moment a villa
dramatically perched on the side of a mountain overlooking Acapulco
Bay. Let you mind run further to a world-class chef available at your
beck and call, to a bartender of great creativity and skill, and a house
manager whose efficiency is rivaled only by her pleasant demeanor.
That about sums up our recent trip to Las Colinas, a five-bedroom villa in Acapulco. Every day our biggest responsibilities were to determine when we wanted our meals and what we wanted to eat. The rest was left to the amazing staff. Most days we arose between 9 and 9:30am, but if we arose at 10 it didn’t matter. Fresh brewed coffee was always waiting for us and breakfast was when we wanted it.
A typical breakfast might have consisted of a fresh fruit platter with papayas, multiple varieties of sweet mangos, watermelons, green melons, and pineapples. Later would come bacon, omelets made to order, incredible refried beans, homemade corn tortillas, chimichiles, and the sweetest most piquant pico de gallo that I’ve ever tasted. On alternate days, chef Leo made the most amazing French toast stuffed with bananas and cream cheese.
Lunch again occurred when we cared to have it. No timetables were set. A typical lunch might have been an astonishing mushroom soup, chalupas with pico de gallo, guacamole, and a tomatilla salsa, along with Mexican rice and refried beans (I could not get enough of these beans). Or we might have been treated to asparagus soup, cheeseburgers with homemade papas fritas (French fries), and a lovely fruit salad. Whatever we wanted, all we had to do was ask and the staff would buy and prepare the food.
Dinners were served in a dining room constructed over a massive boulder that overlooks both the pool and the Acapulco skyline. Again, dinner was whenever we wanted it. The first night we began with an amazing cream of celery soup, a sparkling salad, and some of the best Chille Rellenos we’d ever tried. Dessert was homemade Key Lime Pie and it was to die for. Another night the menu was a cool Avocado soup, a calamari salad, and an exquisite pan fried Sea Bass with fresh green beans and scalloped potatoes. Dessert was a killer flan.
And so it went: each meal more spectacular than the next. We picked out wines at the local wine store and drank several bottles each night that would have cost 200% more has we ordered them at a local restaurant.
The time in between the scrumptious meals was spent swimming in the pool that overlooked the bay, playing games in the spacious and totally comfortable outside living area, and ordering Rum Punches, Cervesas, Pina Coladas and whatever else we wanted from Fredo. We played games, read, watched videos, and totally indulged ourselves in one of the most beautiful weeks we’d ever had. Oh, and did I forget to mention the masseuses who were at our beck and call for just $25 for a 50 minute massage? The ladies went nuts over Raquel and her hand made jewelry (she put on a show at the villa).
So if you’re getting the picture here, with the exception of a short excursion to the Mirador Hotel to watch the famed cliff divers, we did not leave the Las Colinas compound for 8 days. There was no reason to. And trust me, if you are looking for beautiful accommodations, fine dining, and serene blissful days: in short, a really relaxing vacation, then Las Colinas is your destination.
.
Alas, it’s time to leave. Where did the week
go? For more information, go to www.theriotvillas.com.
Double Dave’s is a bit of an improvement and Pizza Hut can sometimes actually be surprisingly edible. Papa John's has improved, I’ll say that for them. Truth is though, that most of these pizzas must be eaten quickly. Time does not serve them well. And none of them can pass the refrigerator test. And I am still trying to figure out what the hell is so special about California Pizza Kitchen? The name? That’s all I can think of. Or perhaps that it’s at the mall. Shoppers are strange: they will eat average pizza because it’s where they are shopping.
Moving up, even though it’s a national chain, you have to give some props to Buca di Bepo. Their Margherita pizza is pretty darned good. I’m also starting to really like the pizzas at Craig O’s which has two locations on 290 and Balcones. Local chain Mangia makes a good deep dish pie but I’m not a big fan of that genre. But I’ve heard many good things about their pies from deep dish fans. Austin’s Pizza has declined a bit since their sale and downsizing, but they are still pretty good. Another good recommendation is Southside Pizza on S. Congress (442-4246).
Moving still much further up the food chain, I really like Mangieri’s in far S. Austin at Slaughter and Escarpment. This is a family-owned spot and their whole wheat crust is the bomb. In fact all their crusts are delightful. And do make it a point to try Rounder’s on W. 6th. Their garlic knots are amazing and the pizza is very tasty. Also very good is East Side Pies over in east Austin. Serious east coast sensibilities here. Ditto for Brooklyn Pies with locations in N. Austin, Round Rock and Georgetown. Another recommendation is Arpeggio Grill on Airport just north of Highland Mall (419-0110). And the pizza at Vespaio Enoteca (441-7672), the sister place to Vespaio on S. Congress features wonderfully crisp crusts with interesting combinations. And what’s not to like about the venerable Frank and Angie’s? Don King turned me on to this place and I owe him a debt of gratitude. Also cool sandwiches and tasty cannolis. And Milto’s on Guadalupe has been cranking out excellent pies for a number of years. You want to talk vintage Austin? This it it.
At the very top tier, there are some serious contenders for the crown. Home Slice on S. Congress has become one of my favorites. It’s not quite New Haven, CT quality (as they advertise) but it’s very good. Kudos to them for having the huevos to try and do a clam pizza. Their crusts have classic east coast texture. Available by the slice. A relatively new player on the scene is Salvation Pizza (535-0076) on W. 34th St. (former home of Starlite). These people are from Hartford, CT and they know how to bring it. This is what a sausage pizza should taste like. Saccones, with a new location in Round Rock has vintage NY-style flavors and textures. They’ve been at or near the top of our list since they opened. And deservedly so. You want a gigantic slice of good pizza? Try Ropollo’s on E. 6th St. They get it right almost every time here and they have a walk-up window on 6th. I once ordered the large sausage and mushroom at our office. It must have weighed 10 pounds! The delivery guy had trouble getting it up the stairs. And Brick Oven, the first pizza place I ever really liked in Austin is still doing well. They have locations on Slaughter, Red River and Jollyville and I still love their vegetarian pie. Great flavor! And whatever you do, don’t overlook the pizza at Cipollina on West Lynn. Crispy crusts, wonderful cheese, and great sauces and toppings. The quality of their pies may derive from the fact that they are an overall excellent restaurant that just happens to serve pizza as one of its offerings. Another old favorite still going strong is Reale’s on 183. This family-owned classic has what may be the best pepperoni pizza in the area.
So who is #1? I tell you what; it’s
so close at the top that I can’t make up my mind. But you are
welcome to cast your ballot here. Perhaps
you can help me crown the new king for ’08. By Popular Demand: Rob’s Family Recipe for Stuffed Mushrooms
Grandma Balon’s Stuffed Mushrooms
3 boxes of white or “button” mushrooms.
Larger is better than smaller. Sunday Brunch: Rob's Recommendations
Lajitas: Gourmet Dining in the Middle of Nowhere
There are several culinary themes that run through Al's menu at Ocotillo. The first is the wild game influence that Blank introduced at Hudson's and the second is the indigenous herbs and spices that give the area its unique flavors. I left Ocotillo with a number of favorite dishes. Here are just a few of them that I would consider mandatory tasting for one's first visit.
For more information
on this amazing destination, check out www.lajitas.com. For Your Holiday Reading: A Week in the Life of a Food Critic
Monday Nonetheless, Brenton Childs is a seasoned
pro (from Vespaio) and this
place is going to be good, even without sightings of Sandra. Rob's Healthy Dining Recommendations: Goodbye Guilt! As some of you may know, I've shed about 40 lbs over the past nine months. I've still got a long way to go but progress is being made.
ZUZU: 5770 N. Mopac, Suite 500 Phone: 467-9295 www.zuzuaustin.com Zuzu is a very cool Mexican restaurant
that violates certain tex mex expectations. They don't use lard. They
have killer (low fat) home made corn tortillas. They have great salads.
Even their rice is cooked in a vegetable broth. KORIENTE: 621 E. 7th St. (across from Courthouse) Phone: 275-0852 www.koriente.com Koriente is a vintage mom and pop restaurant
on E 7th that serves some of the tastiest and healthiest food around.
The Kalbi Pot Roast is amazing. Tender and lean beef simmered in wine
and fresh squeezed vegetable and apple juices. With carrots and Korean
radish. Delicious and low in calories. ZEN: Three locations at 1303 S. Congress; 2900 W. Anderson Lane; and 3423 N. Guadalupe. Web: www.eatzen.com When I first started working on my
weight last October, I began to visit Zen on S. Congress fairly regularly.
Zen offers sensible dishes like the Spicy Shrimp Bowl where you get
sautéed shrimp with white and green onions in a spicy sauce over
brown rice. Delicious, low fat, and good for you. The cool thing is that at Zen you can get filled up without paying a heavy caloric penalty. NU AGE: 2425 Exposition Boulevard. Phone: 469-9390 www.NuAgeCafe.com Vegetarian restaurants are not
establishments that, as a rule, I regularly frequent. However, Nu Age
is a pleasant exception to the usual macrobiotic mush that one often
encounters. Their dishes are creative, exceptionally tasty, and sophisticated.
I am absolutely crazy about their Soy Cashew Sautee. This dish features
a stunning medley of fresh vegetables along with cashews and brown rice.
The Verdict on Tipping at Fast Casual Places is in: Feedback from our Readers We got a huge number of responses from readers on the issue of tipping at fast casual restaurants. (Where the customer goes to a board and orders and the food is brought out later.) Responses ranged from Danny in Austin who said he didn’t tip at all because the workers at these places make more than the usual $2.13 per hour than waiters who work in spots where the tips are the main source of revenue. (Don’t know what they actually make.) But Danny’s response was not the predominant one. Nor was the response from Frankie in Marble Falls who suggested that if the wait person showed up at his table at all, he would start at 15% and go up. The majority of respondents said they would tip anywhere from $1-$4 depending on the perceived effort of the wait person. Some said a dollar per diner or somewhat more if drink refills were offered, etc. But generally, it came down to perceived value. And most of you felt that service people in a fast casual environment did relatively little to enhance the comfort and convenience of the customer. But it’s safe to say that
there is, without question, a different (and lower) set of standards
that most Austin diners employ when tipping at fast casual places. Breakfast, if one is to believe the diet gurus, is the most important meal of the day. Our metabolism is the lowest in the morning, and a good breakfast jump-starts our bodies' internal fat-burning mechanisms. So they say.
1. Arkie's. I love breakfast
joints. And Arkie's qualifies. Open since 1948 and located way out on
East 1st St., Arkie's is the kind of chat and chew place where the regulars
don't ever have to be asked what they'll order. The breakfast tacos
are flat out terrific and the omelets are soft and very tasty. Don't A New Dilemma: Tipping At Fast Casual Restaurants OK. You thought you had tipping at conventional restaurants figured out. 15% if average, 18%, if above average, 20% if really good, 25% if outstanding, etc. Many don’t tip after the first $100 of wine. And some don’t tip on wine after the first $50. But the rapid rise of fast casual places has all of us in a dilemma. You stand and peruse the menu as you walk in. You place your order. You pick up some silverware and grab yourself a table. And eventually, someone brings out your food. So, how much do you tip? Managers at fast casual restaurants we talked to, from Pei Wei to Masala Wok said that tipping is wildly inconsistent. Some leave nothing and some leave quite a lot. Here’s my question to you readers... What are your tipping practices and philosophies at fast casual restaurants? Click on the link to respond and we’ll highlight your answers in a future column. City Sees a Surge in Private Dining Options Over the years, most major Austin restaurants have usually always reserve a private dining area. That’s been fairly common. But what is a much newer trend is for restaurants like Chez Zee and Banderas to build adjacent facilities for private dining, and in the case of Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience, to rebuild the former Café Spiazzo into a facility that is dedicated exclusively to private dining.
Stephen Sicola, chef and co-owner of Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience is a fine example of the trend toward private dining. A CIA trained expert craftsman who five years ago might have been helming a cutting edge restaurant open to the public, he has instead opted to concoct his gourmet delights for private groups from eight to eighty. Sicola’s, like Chez Zee and Banderas will also cater. For more information, hit this
link for MENUS and scroll down to PRIVATE DINING. Five Cool Memorial Day Weekend Restaurants Five Cool Places to Eat and Drink and Listen over the Memorial Day weekend. 1. Zax Pints and Plates. [481-0100] Fun little eaterie at corner of Barton Springs and Riverside. I really like this place. Great sandwiches and a killer tortilla soup, lots of micro brews, and it's adjacent to the volleyball courts behind Aussie's. 2. Ski Shores Waterfront Grill [346-5915] Can't beat the setting or the food. Burgers, catfish, and more in an idyllic setting on Lake Austin. We love the Jalapeno Burger. Take City Park Road off 2222 and drive for a while. But you will enjoy. 3. Carlos and Charlie's. [266-1683] Perched right on Lake Travis, Carlos
and Charlie's has seriously upgraded the quality of food and makes for
a fun place to party over the weekend. Sunday, music will be provided
by Matt While, 4. Lucy's Boatyard. [651-0505] Burger and pizza joint brought to you by the folks who own Chuy's and Hula Hut. It's a fun scene The new sky deck is open which has its own kitchen and a killer view of the lake. Hint: for all you boaters who motor up to the place, make sure your batteries are charged. We don't want anyone else drifting over the dam.. 5. The Oasis. [266-2442]. The mother of all views. Overlooking
Lake Travis, the view is so stunning that when the sun goes down everything,
they ring the bell. The food under Sean Bradshaw is terrific. Music
this weekend: Saturday: Haywire. Sunday: The Brew. The Wine Spectator's Grand Tour Event As we all are well aware, Wine Spectator is the 800 pound gorilla of magazines about wine. A high or low rating in this magazine can make or break a new offering; much like a rave or negative review in The New York Times can propel or kill a Broadway show. So when Wine Spectator sets up one of its Grand Tour events, in this case a mega tasting at the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas (featuring two hundred of the world's greatest wines and champagnes from Caymus to Chateau Margaux), the cognoscenti emerge by the thousands. And therein, apparently, lay the problem. We made our way into the formidable ballroom at the Venetian at about 8:15 PM for an event that was scheduled to run from 7-10 PM (tickets went for $175 a person). The first booth we saw was Caymus. Well, that was a no brainer! We headed over to sample their just released 2002 Special Selection Cabernet but were told that, perish the thought, they had run out. Nothing left. Caymus owner and winemaker supreme Chuck Wagner was extremely apologetic, and, it appeared, a bit perplexed as to why the same allotment that had comfortably taken him through last year's Grand Tour was now gone. Class act all the way, he offered to send us a bottle to assuage our disappointment. When he discovered that I was from Austin, he asked if I knew his friend, developer Larry Peels (he of the private humongous wine collection and cellar). Chuck is a very likeable guy. And true to his word. A bottle of the Cab arrived in my office today.
Then we moved on to Dom Perignon. And guess what? Same problem. After one sip of lukewarm champagne, the Dom Perignon booth closed down. They were totally out. We went next door and sampled the Mum's '97 which was excellent. Then we doubled around the corner and tasted the '96 Chateau Margaux. (They actually still had some wine left.) The wine had a very nice nose, but in my opinion, was a bit lacking in depth and complexity. Also had the very last taste of the Chateau Palmer which was excellent.
No sooner had we sat down then a line again started forming at the table in front of us. People were asking for Dom. We began telling folks that there was none left: commiserating with some, comforting others. One lady told us that Dom Perignon had somehow played a pivotal role in her getting married. And that even if we were out, she was OK with that because she had nothing but fond memories and good feelings for DP. Warming to the task, I developed a French accent. "We 'ave no sham-pan" I began to say in my best Charles Boyer accent. When the actual Dom Perignon rep returned to the booth, he was delighted that we were sitting there taking the heat for him. He backed away quickly, no doubt thinking "better them than me."
And after slipping into the some difficult years, the doughty old gal appears poised for a comeback. We tried the 1996 which I found to be full of promise for a glorious future.
Next stop was the Col Solare booth, a neat little vineyard in the Columbia Valley in Washington that is the result of an alliance between Chateau St. Michelle and Marchesi Antinori. Col Solare , which in Italian means "shining hill" was first introduced in 1995. They poured the 2001 for us and it was delightfully elegant for a wine of that vintage. It's a blend of 57% cab, 35% merlot, and 6% syrah.
Next we wandered down to the Niebaum Coppola booth to try their flagship 2001 Rubicon. Franics Coppola named it Rubicon in honor of Julius Caesar's famous quote about crossing the Rubicon River. The Rubicon is a claret that is blended from cabernet sauvignon, the first of which was planted in California in the 1880's by Inglenook founder Captain Gustav Niebaum. The taste was very balanced though nuanced as well with those subtleties only great cab blends can produce. This is a wine worth drinking young. And the Godfather I&II still remains my favorite two movies of all time. And then to Canoe Ridge, another Columbia Valley wine. Diane Boles was a most engaging pourer and there was almost an instant affinity between us and the 2002 Canoe Ridge Vineyard Merlot. This is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. I immediately got the plum and raspberry flavors and aromas along with more subtle tobacco and earth. This became, almost overnight, one of my favorite melots.
By that point, they were flicking the lights on and off in the ballroom of the Venetian. It was time to gather up our notes, our custom wine glasses and head for the door, which of course in Las Vegas, leads directly through the casino. The Grand Tour is a premier event because of the access it affords to so many outstanding wines. And we drank a lot of great wine, but there was a lot that we missed. My suggestions to the Wine Spectator for future events: --Do the math. X number of cases divided
by X number of attendees =?????? Make sure there's enough wine. It's
an outrage that so many wineries were out by 8:15 PM.
For more information on future Grand Tour events, go to the website at www.winespectator.com. Rob's Guide to Owner-Operated Late Night Dining in Austin
Open 24 Hours
Open Past Midnight:
2004 was a very uneven year for the Austin food scene. Despite the repeated and enthusiastic assurances by our local daily newspaper that Austin business was booming, most new owner-operated restaurants in the Austin area, who are dependent on discretionary spending, continued to post less than robust sales. Restaurants reported that many diners were ordering one entrée and splitting it, always a sign that consumers have not completely abandoned the caution that has characterized the past few years. And there was definitely a pecking order that emerged among the upscale restaurants: several were packed most nights of the week (like Eddie V's, Trulucks, Cool River, The Roaring Fork) while other quality newer places like Tintinnio, Thai Tara, Mimosa, Thistle Café, and Zin Bistro played to decidedly fewer crowds. And the comfort food trend continued to percolate in 2004. Moonshine Patio Bar and Grill, on 3rd at Red River continued to pack 'em in, while Hoover's Cooking on Manor Road had another solid year. One should not also over look the success of the Pei Wei fast casual restaurants (from the PF Chang's family). Fast casual is the buzzword right now and you'll see more established restaurants as well adapting their current stores to accommodate this trend. Krispy Kreme, once thought to be invincible, had a tough year in the stock market. Perhaps the lingering systemic problems that emerged during the low-carb craze? And one of the Austin area's true landmarks, Dot's Place, burned to the ground in the fall of 2004. Alas, Dot had no insurance. Several fund raisers netted only $24,000 of the estimated $400,000 she needs to rebuild. This was while the Austin City Manager's office was proposing a forgivable $750,000 loan to the owners of the Midtown Club. Is there some serious inequity here or is it just me? And the anti-smoking crowd scored another victory by getting a May 2005 referendum on the ballot that would create a total and complete ban of smoking at all nightclubs and venues that continue to allow it. My take is this: if an owner wants to make their establishment a smoking venue, they do so at their own risk. Customers will come, or not come, based on their preference. Why do we need to have government step in and intrude on yet another aspect of our lives? And one landmark anniversary of note: Sweetish Hill Bakery on 6th St. celebrated its 30th anniversary. Openings:
Will Packwood, former boy wonder chef at Emilia's, opened "7", a seafood restaurant on S. Congress with former Granite Café chef Sam Dickey. While they may have confused some folks early on with their unique "by the ounce" pricing method for fish, the food is stellar and their little bistro suits the S. Congress vibe. And in the "what were you thinking???" category, Sam Nichimura opened an expansive and sophisticated sushi and Sumiyaki restaurant in Pflugerville called Fuji. In a town that is mesmerized by Cheddars, Fuji didn't stand a chance. It closed six months after it opened and cost Sam most of his life savings. Waterloo Ice House opened up another location of the popular eateries at 2222 and 360 just north of Sienna. They replaced a failed Mexican restaurant and a failed northern location of the Alligator Grill. So far, so good. In March, several major openings occurred. Suzi's China Grill opened a third location on Bee Caves Rd. in Westlake, just up from Mopac. And the sushi bar Silhouette on Congress emerged from the legal detritus of the former Pango's (remember the video-happy owner?) I like Silhouette and hope they do well. There are, however, an abundance of sushi options in the downtown area. And McCormick and Schmick's, a big-time seafood emporium opened at 4th and Congress. They had some big-time service issues early on, but have improved greatly under the new manager (Richard, from Houston). Their food is fresh and quite good and you can order, as we did the other evening, a 3-4 lb lobster if you call a few days in advance. April saw the start of the very cool Colombian flavored Dona Emilia's on 1st across from the Four Seasons. They outgrew their original site on E. 7th and offer a great menu. Try the Arroz con Pollo. You will love it. And at Lakeline Mall, the northern sister restaurant to the famous S. Austin store, The Texican Café, opened with a bang. For my money, you cannot beat their Shrimp Flautas and their Cabrito. Hog Island Deli also kicked off its operations on Lavaca at 16th. Owner Carlo DiMarco is a Philadelphia boy who has brought the secret of the Philly Cheese steak with him to Austin. The Italian Subs are a blast as well. Things were a little slower in May, with the Galaxy Café opening at Slaughter and Brodie in S. Austin. Great little owner operated spot (former managers at Shady Grove). I particularly love their breakfasts. And the Riata Bar and Grill also opened on Riata Bld. in North Austin. In June, at the site of the Iron Chef, Italian Tintinnio came on strong with great food and alas, very few customers. I hope they make it, but something appears to be unfortunate about the Burnet and Research location. Another really good Tepanyaki and Sushi restaurant, Fujiyama, opened on Jollyville across from Brick Oven. Same result as Tintinnio. Like Tintinnio, lots of empty tables early on. They too deserve a better fate. And finally, the Athenian Grille opened in the former site of Jean Luc's Bistro on Colorado. Hooray! Now I can have my Gyro's again and my pastichio. As the summer chugged along, Caribbean styled Aunt Tilly's came on line, featuring Cubano sandwiches, great macaroni and cheese, and other goodies. The setting on Lake Travis is idyllic. Santa Rita Cantina, Eddie Bernal's homage to Tex Mex had its opening on July 16th. It's at the site of the former Tres Amigos on W. 38th. In late summer, Andiamo opened at Burnet and Rutland. Fellow named Giovanni from Virginia who knows how to put out veal and pasta. Not the greatest of locations but the initial buzz is encouraging. And Austin finally got a Waffle House, out near the Airport. This popular little chain is known for the infinite variation of its home fries (smothered, covered, et al) and omelets. Good patty melts as well. In fact, the Waffle House saved our lives last summer on a trip to Destin, Fl. (which has got to be one of the most God-awful restaurant cities in the US). Golden Harbor, a Chinese buffet at I-35 and Middle Fiskville opened in August and closed, like Fuji, several months later in November. Again, decent restaurant but there are a million Chinese buffets in Austin. And a sandwich shop called Castleberry's opened on Barton Springs Rd. I was not overly impressed with their fare on first bite. And our old pal Pizza Nizza moved out its Barton Springs Road location and out to Westlake, in the same shopping center as perennial favorite Bistro 88 and my excellent doctor, Ron Byrd. Early fall saw another spurt of openings. Yet another sushi restaurant, Sushi Japon north of 290 and IH 35, came on-line. Tough location but really good fare, both hot and cold, at this restaurant. Do try it. And chef Opart's Ka Prow, a Pan Asian restaurant, opened on Howard Lane with a scintillating debut. Billy's on Burnet, a burger joint opened in September. As you might imagine, it's on Burnet and it's low key and fun. Out in Cedar Park, a new pizza joint debuted: Bud and Walt's Pizza with a family recipe from Chicago that goes back over 50 years. And at Hancock Center, the southwest-flavored Tin Star, featuring an eclectic array of wraps and really fun food (with maybe the best milkshakes in the city), came out of the shoot with all guns blazing. In October, a very cool breakfast joint opened on Parmer Lane at Metric. It's called The Original Pancake House. It's a chain but franchisee Sue Jahn runs it like she started it all out of her own kitchen. The German pancakes are to die for. And in Marble Falls, the former Wild Horse Grill became Patterson's on Main. The owner has experience working with Wolfgang. How cool is that? And right down the street, 909 Main opened. The food is excellent and the owners designed the restaurant so that, as in Europe, they can sleep and live upstairs. And in a space in Westlake that has housed several restaurants, Sonic opened its first dine-in store. We'll see how that does. In November, we drank the Beaujolais
Noveaus and welcomed Rudino's Grinders to Research and Anderson Lane
and The Indian Palace on Far West. The Indian Palace is family owned
and has the inevitable lunch buffet. But the food is excellent. And
they just got their beer and wine license! The end of the year brought us some great new openings. Bahia Abrigada in Bastrop is the brainchild of Herman von Hapsburg, who was instrumental in kicking off The Thistle Café. This is a restaurant you must try as it blends continental and Caribbean. And Austin's first all-fondue restaurant, the Melting Pot, opened on December 15th on Research just north of Anderson Mill. Neat concept and I particularly enjoyed cooking the seafood in the Coq au Vin broth.. But fondue cooking is a slow, languid process. Not recommended for those in a hurry. And Rocco's Grille opened next to Katz's at the site of what was Ninfas on 6th St. Former manager of Roy's, Patric Mahon, is at the helm and that bodes well. And finally, Juan Mario's out on 620 at the site of the former Calame's came on line in late December. John Innes is the owner here (late of The City Grille) and he knows how to please the palate. I've tried their pizza and it's quite good. Well, that was quite a list of openings, no? Hope they all kick butt and take names, so to speak. But unless things significantly turn around in Austin, I'm afraid that just won't happen. Closings: As I said earlier, the year was uneven. Lots of new openings, but unfortunately, some lamentable closings as well. A few deserved, but most a victim of under financing and the still not robust local economy. Early in 2004, Ray's Steakhouse on
Guadalupe closed its doors. This was a blow. Ray Lemay knew how to do
steaks, veal, and especially chicken fried chicken. His restaurant will
be missed. Another January casualty was long-time Westlake icon, the
Belgian Restaurant. After 20 years in their little restaurant on Bee
Caves Rd, they could never get over the loss of their chef to the now
defunct Girasole. And Dan McKlusky's at the Arboretum shut down, leaving
the 6th St. location alive and well. Another early casualty of 2004
was Café Spiazzo on Parkcrest. They had closed their Westlake
location in 2003 also. And the popular north eaterie UR Cooks ran into
lease problems and closed as well. The springtime saw the closing of Jean
Luc's Bistro on Colorado. Original owner Jean Luc gave way to a fine
chef, Sean Cirkiel (originally of "22"), but alas, this great
little spot is no more. Another huge disappointment was the loss of
the Holiday House. After the vegan-crazed landlord had booted them out
of their former location on Exposition, this Austin landmark moved to
Bee Caves Road and Walsh Tarlton. They barely lasted five months at
that location. Summer saw the passing of yet another restaurant at that ill-fated location of the upstairs restaurant at 35th St. and Jefferson: Pacific Blue. This was the sister restaurant of the excellent Korean spot, Koreana. Good food, but as former owner Collin B and Jean Pierre before him found out, this location is just not a good one. And Crimson, the neat fusion restaurant that had taken over for Gilligan's on Colorado and 5th also closed. This is the kind of restaurant that would have made it in a slightly more sophisticated food city than Austin. And the lamentable Canyonside, at the site of the former Calame's on Highway 620 came to a merciful end. The brother and sister owners made much of Grandma's revered recipes, but the public didn't seem to share their enthusiasm for the old gal's food. Another summer closing was one that was richly deserved: Lim Ting on S. Congress. God, what an awful little restaurant. Not only did their food suck, but they had a rodent problem as well. The owner was clueless as was the chef. The fall saw the closing of long-time Barton Springs Rd. favorite, The Filling Station. I loved their Diesel Dogs. But the smoking ordinance, according to the owner, did them in. And the Westlake curse struck again, bringing down two more restaurants: Four Corners at the Albertson's center and Ginga, on Bee Caves Road. Four Corners was a neat, southwest styled restaurant owned by a guy named Guido Doria from White Plains, New York. He fell in love with Austin, and converted the former Canyon Café, a chain out of Dallas, into Four Corners. The food was good. Guido deserved a better fate. Ginga wasn't even around long enough for the proverbial cup of coffee. I don't know where the hell the people who live in Westlake dine out, but it sure doesn't appear to be in Westlake. Anyone wanting to start a restaurant there should have their head examined! The Florida Seafood Grille on
183 also closed. But this was a closing of convenience. The owners planned
to convert this space to a Truluck's North, which recently opened in
2005. OK sub fans, it’s time for another annual look at the best and worst of sub fare in the central Texas area. This is our third time around on this, and while we may miss a shop or two, we think we’ve got a pretty neat compilation of what we think represents the best, and worst of the sub fare in the area. As always, feel free to weigh in with your opinion, or if you think we’ve missed something.
BEST SUBS/SANDWICHES
Delaware Subs. This long time Austin original still cranks out great subs: from the Philly Cheese steak to the mouthwatering Italian with hot and sweet peppers and the ethereal meatball subs. Delaware has maintained a quality over the years that has kept a loyal customer base, me included. And their bread is quite good. On top of that, their employees don’t all look like they’re about to break out into a rendition of “Hey Dude.” Plus the bread is always fresh. I wish, however, that they would include spicy mustard as a condiment. Don’t understand that not being offered. www.delawaresub.com
Sweetish Hill. Twenty-nine years and going strong at 1120 W.6th, Sweetish Hill is alive and well. Their sandwiches and baguettes are the bomb. My favorite is the Roasted Eggplant and Brie with Pesto and the Turkey and Avocado Baguette [unfortunately only available on Fridays]. They take great care and attention with each sandwich. They also have really neat soups and custom pizzas there as well. If you’ve got deep pockets, they will also deliver, which is a nice touch. www.sweetishhill.com
Jersey Mike’s Subs. A newcomer to Austin, on Research near Braker, this is a national chain but a very decent sub. Everything is meticulously fresh and I particularly enjoy the Jersey Mike’s Original (Cheese, Ham Salami, Pepperoni, Cappacuolo, Prusciutto and other goodies). A husband and wife team run the place and do a very nice job. The club sub is also a blast. www.jerseymikes.com
Hog Island Deli. At 16th and Lavaca, this place is owned by a transplanted Philadelphian. Hence, Carlo DiMarco gets Philly Cheese steak. I mean he really gets it. The bread is super fresh and the flavors are authentic. I also love the Old Italian sub, with capicolla, coteghino, prociutto, sopresseta, and roasted peppers. This is old school good taste. www.hogislanddeli.com
Texas French Bread. Another Austin classic, fewer in number now, but with the same great food.. Limited sandwich menu but every thing is fresh and on the money. The Pimento Cheese is to die for as is the Le Nicoise. Three locations in Austin: two near the UT campus and one on S. Congress. And their cookies are terrific. Every Christmas, we descend on the place to order chocolate chip, oatmeal and raisin, and of course, gingersnaps along with their amazing Hobbit bread. Website under construction.
GOOD SUBS/SANDWICHES
Thundercloud. An Austin original, Thundercloud has numerous locations around the city. Service varies widely from store to store which drove them down a notch. I usually get the Genoa Salami on a wheat roll with mustard, mayo, onions, and THUNDER SAUCE. The Egg Salad with bacon and cheese is another favorite. www.thundercloud.com
Quizno’s. Quizno’s is a national chain with ten Austin area locations. They have popularized the “toasted sub” which I like on occasion. My favorite sandwich is the Classic Italian with salami, pepperoni, capicolla, ham, and mozzarella cheese with a red wine vinaigrette. I’ve found service irregularities at several of the stores, but the food is generally good. www.quiznos.com
Schlotzky’s. They have tumbled a notch from the previous Sub Wars two years ago. The reason: out of control menu development. I think that Scholotzky’s introduced way too many items much too quickly. The result was lack of quality control, customer confusion, and diminished customer experience. The rub is, the sandwiches for the most part are good. I still like the classic Original which was the staple sandwich (sourdough roll with grilled lunch meats and cheese) introduced way back in 1973 at the little S. Congress shop that now houses Amy’s Ice Cream. Also like the newer Reuben. But never could get used to the Pizzas and all the other designer sandwiches they introduced. Perhaps the new owner will right the listing ship and restore the chain to its glory days.
Obee’s. This is a neat little sub shop on 2700 West Anderson Lane. Part of a chain, but the store has a nice, comfortable vibe to it. I like the “Gutbuster” which consists of Turkey, Roast Beef, Ham and Cheese, and the Seafood Sub. The Italian bread is baked fresh each day. www.obees.com
SO-SO SUBS/SANDWICHES
Jimmy John’s. Another chain with a campus location on MLK. First time around I thought the sub was pretty good. I had the Italian loaded. Next time, not so good at all. Third time, another so-so experience.
FLAT OUT BAD SUBS
Subway. I just don’t get Subway. Their sandwiches leave me cold. No wonder Jared lost 289 pounds on the subway diet. I tried his sandwich and it flat out sucked. Yuucchhh!!! If I had to eat that every day for a year, I’d blow my frigging brains out. I’ve found the servers to be way below par on many occasions including one guy who works at the 71/620 location inside a convenience store who set the bar to the lowest possible level.
To suggest another Sub or sandwich
shop or to comment, please write to info@diningoutwithrobbalon.com. Many new restaurants having difficult time in Central Texas You read about the openings of
many new, owner-operated restaurants here on the pages of diningoutwithrobbalon.com.
And you read in the local daily newspaper about the rapidly "recovering"
Austin economy. The tech dollars are flowing again, and while it may
not be the robustness of 1999, things are supposedly much better than
2001 or 2002, Discretionary spending, the local daily tells us, is way
up. Good Chinese restaurants that DON'T Have Buffets It seems these days that virtually
every Chinese restaurant you go to has a buffet of some kind. They are
all over the place. A few of the buffets are good (Buffet
Palace, Golden Harbor,
Wokaholic) but most are just
flat out awful and loaded with MSG. But they are cheap. How can you
beat $4.95 for all that stuff? Paradigm Shift? Alamo Drafthouse Blends Food and Film I spent an hour recently looking
into the future of movie-going. And were I running a British paramutual
operation, I'd lay odds of at least 8-5 that Alamo
Drafthouse is going to be in the epicenter of the coming revolution.
Do I hear an entrepreneurial
note here somewhere? Ah yes, drawing on market research that said that
80% of movie goers have something to eat either before or after a movie,
the Alamo Drafthouse
hit upon the idea of combining the two experiences of viewing and dining
into one event. The notion is simple: movie fans enter the theater,
order their food before the movie begins, and get to enjoy their fare
either before or while the movie is running. This notion of compressed
time makes a lot of sense. A couple worrying about babysitting bucks
can combine the dining part with the movie part and save themselves
a few hours. When I was a child, Star Kist
Tuna used to advertise itself as the "chicken of the sea."
My, how times have changed. For tuna fans today, chicken is a pale afterthought
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Eating Sushi
--Many folks feel that they have to
eat sushi with chopsticks. Not so. Sushi is actually the ultimate finger
food. Besides, most Americans are not that good with chopsticks. So
why make a good thing more difficult?
Musashino: on the Mopac access road at Anderson Lane. Beneath Chinatown. Don't rub your chopsticks together. It pisses Smoky off. 795-8593 Uchi Sushi: In the former space of Si Bon on S. Lamar just south of Barton Springs. Tyson Cole at the helm. Try the maguro sashimi with goat cheese. 916-4808 Fuji: (new Japanese place in Pflugerville with amazing chu-toro) off #1825. Sam Nishimura is losing weight. He needs more business to fatten him up. And this one is worth it. 252-0200 Umi Sushi: On I-35 access road just N. of Stassney. Right past the car dealerships. Really cool selection of rolls. 383-8681 That's right, sushi in far south Austin. Mikado: On N. side of Research just East of Burnet intersection. Henry Wong has crafted an elegant and exquisite array of sushi and sashimi. 833-8188 Sushi Sake: In the Gateway shopping center, at Research and Capital of Tx Highway. Chef Gary makes a very tempting Catepillar Roll. 527-0888 Places serving sushi you don't want to overlook but may have. Benihana: seriously underrated sushi bar at this Tepanyaki restaurant on Burnet at Research. 451-7505 Seoul Sushi: On S. 1st St. just north of William Cannon. This place is a blast. Don't miss Disco Sushi on Monday evenings. Ask owner DK about what a "sakebomb" is! 326-5807. www.dksushi.com. Peony: On Parkcrest off 2222 and Mopac. Chinese restaurant with seriously good sushi bar. 459-3341. Origami: Very decent sushi emporium in Round Rock at 110 N. I-35. Chef Tim actually teaches classes on sushi making. 238-6522 Korea Garden: This is a funky but very good little joint that seamlessly blends bugogli and sushi. It's at 6579 N. Lamar across from the Yellow Rose (hey, if you tire of sushi, you can always head across the street). 302-3149 Best (actually only) place for sushi and mingling with celebrities and hot babes. Kenichi: The winner hands down on the cachet scene. Spending time with Billy Rieger and his inevitable entourage is always a gas. Very pricey on the sushi and sake side. But you can rub elbows with Sandy Bullock and Lance Armstrong. And the dynamite shrimp is worth going for. 419 Colorado in the Warehouse District. 320-8883 The
Food Year in Review: 2003 The burning question on virtually every restaurateur's lips last year was "how's your business." And, in truth, for many restaurants, the much-predicted Austin economic recovery failed to materialize for them in 2003. On many nights, particularly Monday-Thursday, you could hear a pin drop in quite a few quality, owner-operated restaurants across the city. Corporate spending was still down and the continued tech slump cut deeply into the hospitality budgets of many previously high-spending households. We saw some of that in our Gonzo Gourmet Club last year. Some of our die-hard techie members had to pass on dinners for which they normally would have been the first to sign up. Still, among the owner-operated restaurants, openings outnumbered closings. And upscale restaurants like Eddie V's, Cool River Café, and Trulucks all reported significant increases over 2002. It's not that regulars weren't out dining, they were just being more selective about where and when they went. Openings There were a number of high-profile
restaurant openings in 2003. Freda Cheng, sister of Ronald Cheng, opened
Freda's Seafood Grille on Pecan
Park off 183 and 620. It's a Cajun-styled seafood and steak house and
it's quite good. They had some early prep issues that resulted in spotty
service and inconsistent meals, but that is in the past. The Sushi craze continued unabated
with the opening of Tyson Cole's Uchi on S. Lamar at the site of the
former Si Bon. An alumnus of Musashino, Cole has been nothing short
of brilliant out of the box. The maguro sashimi with goat cheese is
amazing! Also opening in Pflugerville was Hakata Sushi, Chris Doti's
bold attempt to bring culture to the burbs. And the elegant Tanohsii
Sushi opened in Round Rock, only to close months after the opening because
of extremely slow nighttime business. Henry Wong's Mikado
on Research continues to impress. This is one of my favorite spots for
lunch. On the Asian side, the Iron Chef opened at Burnet and Research. Yeah, we thought it sounded like a Japanese restaurant as well. But it's Chinese, and it's wonderful. And at the site of the former Collin B's at 38th and Jefferson, Pacific Blue opened. This is a fusion of Korean, Chinese, Japanese and Thai from the owners of Koreana. And it's quite good. And Cathy's Steakhouse at Spicewood and Mesa is a neat, little place with Chinese, Vietnamese, and American cuisine. Cathy's love of dancing is reflected in her dance floor which is adjacent to the dining room. You can also catch The Balons there occasionally. The Veloz sisters, Didi and Sylvia, opened TG Jorge's on Hancock at Burnet. They are one of the few restaurants where fans of New Mexican and West Texas style Mexican chow can find satisfaction. And Roger Diaz opened Vivo Cocina Texicana on Manor Road across from Hoover's Cooking. Vivo is nothing short of spectacular with wonderful corn masa puffy tacos and enchiladas to die for. And, you will find no use of lard in this restaurant. When former Gilligan's chef Fred Geesin
opened Zin last year, at Jefferson Plaza (really neat restaurant, by
the way) that left an opening at 907 Colorado. It was filled by Crimson,
a really cool restaurant fusing southern food stylings with those of
other cultures (can you say Thai Jambalaya?). It's good. I love the
sweet potato French fries. Another bold opening (from the owners
of Saba and Malaga) was Moonshine
Patio Bar and Grill, in the site of the former Emilia's at 3rd and
Red River. This is all about comfort food and Larry Perdido is having
a blast in the kitchen dishing up everything from macaroni and cheese
to a tasty flat iron steak. Another neat opening was the Mansion at Judge's Hill. Owner Bill Gurasich and his team have crafted a delightful small hotel and restaurant at Rio Grande and MLK. Chef John Maxwell [formerly of Zoot] is doing wonders in the kitchen. My suggestion: check in on Saturday, have dinner Saturday night, stay in one of their wonderfully comfortable and beautifully appointed rooms, sleep in, have breakfast in bed and check out early Sunday afternoon! And let's hope the lingering curse of the Dam View, Jakes on the Lake, and El Dorado, will not impact the new Boatyard Grill which opened in that space in the fall of 2003. Had a cobb-styled salad there recent that was delicious, as were the popcorn shrimp. And, the owners are the guys from Comida Deluxe (Chuy's, Hula Hut, Shady Grove): Mike Young, Andy Norton and that whole cast of stellar operators. This one should fly! Out in the territories, The Backstage Steakhouse opened on Highway 71 in Spicewood. Chef Raymond Tatum is rocking this kitchen with wonderful Talapia and killer steaks. The owners are former caterers to rock and country bands, hence the name. And up in Georgetown, Jim McKinney, owner of the Main Street Grill in Round Rock, opened Monica's 701. This is Georgetown's first really upscale restaurant and it's wonderful. Music on the weekends. Finally, the closing of long-time Italian favorite Basils brought about the opening of Café Caprice on 10th St.. Former chefs from Barton Creek resort are at work here and the fusion fare is quite good. And the folks from Trudy's took a shot at the booming S. Congress area with their new S. Congress Café. Whew! That's a lot of openings. Imagine if we'd had a good economy. Closings Mentioned earlier that the openings
outnumbered the closings. But there were some sad losses. I hated to
see the demise of Demi Epicurious on 6th St. at the site of the former
Sardin Rouge. Chef Robert Barker had it going, but they ran out of financial
steam in March of 2003. And a huge shocker to its many fans
was the closing of Ray's Steakhouses on Guadalupe and on 183. Long-time Westlake favorite, the Belgian Restaurant went down in December of 2003. In my opinion, after they lost chef Christian Ebersole, the place was never the same. Nonetheless, a great loss. Also, equally sad, was the closing of my absolute favorite breakfast joint, C-5 Steakhouse, up Bee Caves Road. Gary Johnson put everything he had into that place and I adored it. C-5 will be missed. Another casualty was Foo Swasdee's Thai Noodle House in Round Rock. This was as good, in it's own right, as her anchor restaurant, Satay. And the strange saga of the building across from Siena at 2222 and 360 continued. It had begun as the upscale 22. Then, it transitioned into the Alligator Grill North. Finally, it became Huya's Mexican. Nothing worked and Huya's declared bankruptcy in the summer of 2003. It has now become a Waterloo Ice House. We'll see. While not a fan of the concept myself, a lot of people told me they were very saddened by the closing of UR Cooks. There's a substantial segment of the market that enjoys the idea of replicating the experience of grilling on our deck and letting someone else clean up. Too bad. Heard they were doing OK but ran afoul of a bad investment in Chelsea Street Pubs. El Arroyo on Research also closed. This was as much about the ongoing road construction mess on 183 than anything else. And when owner Clay McPhail learned he was going to be about 100 yards behind the planned exit, that was the last straw. Que lastima. I liked that one. And Café Siazzo off of Parkcrest bit the dust late in 2003. Nice little family-style Italian place that had formerly had a second location in Westlake (which became Dragongate and is now Ginga). Also, please take a moment and say a prayer for Marge Kinsella. The heart and soul of the Emerald Restaurant died of cancer late in 2003. She was a sweetheart: one of the nicest people I've ever met, in or out of the food business.
Click here to read last year's Food Year in Review: 2002
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