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(June
17, 2004)
Z-Tejas at the Arboretum turned eight years old in February of this
year. And Jack Gillmore's culinary creation is doing just fine in
the hands of chef Carlos Monzano. Some prefer to label the food at
Z-Tejas as Southwest, while others say New American; but the best
and most enduring label I can think of is just flat out Austin tasty.
Each dish is singular both in concept and in taste and that makes
the Z experience so unique and rewarding.
A good example of this is Z's cast-iron skillet
corn bread. They don't use lard in their cornbread. The moisture comes
from plain yogurt that also gives the bread its delicious density.
The flavor also somes from fresh roasted corn along with sweet corn.
They don't allow it to sit for more than 30 minutes so you're always
getting something fresh. The Crab Cakes are 90% crab with very little
binder. They're quick seared (helps keep them together) and served
with jicama and they are a delight.
And then the Dumplings. A pork and shrimp mixture steamed and then
pan fried in the cast-iron skillet and served with a sweet red ginger
sauce. Very tasty.And you will love the Fish Tacos. The flour tortillas
are full of blackened catfish, shredded red cabbage, cucumber-carrot
slaw and an ethereal jalapeno tartar sauce. These are irresistible.
Z-Tejas serves up a lot of salads each day and for good reason. The
Jerk Chicken salad is my favorite. And while the jerk chicken strips
have just the right flavor, like most salads, it's the dressing, in
this case a sesame-ginger vinaigrette that really takes it over the
top.
The entrees each have their own appeal. The Gorgonzola
NY Strip, in a sauce of caramelized onions, butter, and garganzola
cheese is a delight. They used to serve this with a Jack Daniel's
sauce that was a trifle much for some palates. I enjoyed the old sauce
but it's hard to argue with the change. Tender and delicious. And
the Pan-Fried snapper is a real people pleaser. The cilantro cream
sauce features a pesto of roasted pumpkin seeds, olive oil, and garlic
finished with cilantro, Texas blue crab, and a little cream. The taste
sensations of this dish are huge!
Another favorite is the Diablo Chicken Pasta. This intriguing dish
mixes jerk chicken with a blend of jalapeno and red pepper linguini
with a Diablo sauce made of spicy jerk rub and heavy cream. And finally,
try the Horseradish-crusted salmon which is pan roasted and served
with mashed potatoes, sautéed green beans, and mixed vegetables.
The horseradish is the perfect complement to the salmon. I like the
way this dish is mellow and little kicked up at the same time.
The service at Z-Tejas is good. Most restaurants
in this city can't make that claim. And that's because the manager
has been there since the opening and there's training and protocol
there. And up the food chain there's also Larry Foles and Guy Villavaso,
two men who know a thing or two about running a quality restaurant
(Eddie V's, Roaring Fork).
So head on out to Z-Tejas at the Arboretum this
weekend. And tell 'em Rob Balon sent you.
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