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(Click
Here to Make a Reservation)
(May 11, 2007)
Zax Pints and Plates is a uniquely Austin kind of restaurant. It's at
the corner of Riverside and Barton Springs next to Aussie's. You will
find a wide variety of microbrews and an interesting and tasty array
of food choices. My son-in-law John loves their Oktoberfest. And in
these days of national chains and ersatz fern bars crowding into the
downtown area, Zax is fiercely and proudly locally owned and operated.
I have long been on record as being a huge fan of their tortilla soup.
That has not changed. This is a soup that has a more subtle vibe to
it than others of this ilk around the city. And that's important. The
cayenne and Mexican oregano offer ying to the yang of the pureed tortillas,
chicken stock, corn, and zucchini. The first taste says it all. Instantly
gratifying.
They also serve a very pleasant dish of Steamed Mussels. I grew up in
an area where mussels were commonplace. And yet I never really cared
for them. How ironic that my later-in-life conversion to these delicate
mollusks occurred at southern places like Zax. Perhaps it was because
that back in Conn., no one was cooking mussels in saffron infused curry
sauces like Zax does. The Crab Cakes at Zax are also very tasty. They
are also very dense, with crab, as it should be. The filler here is
only an accent, not a language unto itself. The gulf crabs are the stars.
And I also enjoy the Grilled Chicken Caesar salad. This is a simple
dish with chicken breasts atop crisp leafs of romaine lettuce. But the
homemade caesar dressing lights up the flavors and turns this salad
from simple into simply delicious. It's also a great lunchtime choice
for those in search of lighter fare.
The entrees at Zax are more than one might expect from a place known
for microbrews. There's interesting variety and depth of flavors. Take
for example the Grilled Flat Iron steak. I love this cut and its unique
taste and texture. Add some of Zax's pomme frittes and you have an inordinately
pleasant repast. Flat iron cuts have become very popular in the Austin
area and Zax is one of the reasons why. Another unexpected pleasure
at Zax is the Italian Sausage and Peppers. One does not normally see
the intermingling of sausage, leeks artichoke hearts and pancetta, but
like so many things at Zax, it works. The dish also weaves in a nice
angle-hair pasta with a hint of shitakes. That's cool. For some reason,
Salmon and beer seem to go well together. And the Grilled Salmon with
a zesty beurre blanc sauce is light and texturally perfect. One should
never overcook salmon, and Zax is never guilty of presenting those rubbery
overcooked salmons one finds at those ersatz fern bars we spoke of earlier.
Zax Pints and Plates is at 312 Barton Springs Road at the site of the
former Al Capone's restaurant. I'll tell you what, if Al could had tried
these sausage and peppers, he would have saved the recipe in that famous
vault of his. Zax works at many levels. And it's a perfect place for
a late-night snack on weekends.
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