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Rob's Review
This week's culinary mission takes us to Wan Fu, a late night Chinese eatery
at 2400 East Oltorf. I've got good news and bad news about Wan Fu.
Let's start with the good news. It's open 'til 2AM. When that raging
carbohydrate craving that only Chinese food can cure strikes you at, say,
MIDNIGHT, you now, at least have some options. Aside from the food, you can
hang out with local musicians and other artistic lost souls. Now for the
second piece of good news: The eggrolls were crisp and tasty and the pan
fried dumplings had a very nice texture and flavor. The won ton soup was
serviceable and nice and hot. The spicy, steamed mussels were also quite
good.
Now, for the bad news. My waitress was unable to distinguish between a fork
and a knife. I asked for a fork, she brought me a knife. A minor delineation
perhaps, for one who knows how to use chopsticks, but that's not me. I also
asked what time the restaurant closed and she pointed to her clothes. OK>.
We'll let that one slide.
The sesame chicken was tough and had to be sent back. I ate one piece, spit
the second one out and tossed it back on top of the serving platter. The
waitress came and got it. As blind serendipity would have it, a woman at the
adjacent table ordered the same dish. No sooner had the waitress entered the
kitchen with my dish than she emerged carrying another platter of sesame
chicken
Except she stopped a few feet out the door, looked at me, looked down at the
platter, made a face and walked back into the kitchen. She had picked up my
returned platter and had almost served it to the next patron.
Yikes!
Then tried the chicken and shrimp lo mein. Fairly tasty but way too oily for
the dish. The key to excellent lo mein, like you get in both Chinatowns, is
that it should not be oily. The flavor of the oil should be subtle, barely
noticeable. The noodles were also overcooked, and that took away something as
well.
Realize also that these faux pas occurred in late afternoon, before the
dinner crowd shuffled in.
OK. Wan Fu. Good: Open late. Cool late night crowd. Tasty appetizers. Bad:
curious service, entrees that need some loving care.
So it comes down to: how hungry are you?
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