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(August 17, 2007)
| What can you say about a BBQ restaurant
and brew pub that blends the talents of a former sushi chef and
a former home beer brewer? Well you could say that it's definitely
worth investigating. Welcome to Uncle Billy's Brew and Que on Barton
Springs Road across from Austin Java. Former Kenichi executive chef
Shane Stark has teamed up with former Live Oak and Bitter End brew
master extraordinaire Brian Peters. |
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To say the possibilities are endless here is to
put it mildly. Peters hit the ground running and soon had five brews
ready for tasting. From the hoppy Uncles Billy's India Pale Ale to the
smoother Back 40 Blonde Ale, all the potables are in fine form and go
quite nicely with the smoked meats from the kitchen. And Stark crafted
a simple yet exceptionally tasty menu.
Let's begin with a unique salad: mixed greens with
carrots, scallions, tomatoes, white cheddar and croutons piled with
tender brisket. The Chipotle Vinaigrette dressing complements the spices
on the brisket and is perfect for this salad. The Baby Back Ribs are
coated with a dry rub of brown sugar, paprika, salt and ground mustard.
They fall off the bone amidst a cacophony of oohs and ahs from this
reviewer. Smooth yet with a hint of fire and smoke. Another great recommendation
is the Pulled Pork. The meat is brined overnight and then smoked for
12-14 hours. The pork is pulled off the bone while still warm and comes
to the table in an eminently edible condition. This is a neat dish.
No Que joint would be worth its spurs without a Brisket. And Uncle Billy's
uses only a certified angus brisket. 13 hours in the smoker and then
12 more in a warmer at 160 degrees so the meat can "settle".
And then on to the table in wonderfully juicy and tender slices. The
Sausage is good there as well. The regular sausage, from Redfield's
in Bryan, Texas is aromatic, full of flavor, and has a nice texture.
Equally enjoyable is the Jalapeno Cheese Sausage. Baby, this has got
some serious taste components. The first bit lights you up and it's
a roller coaster from there. You have to try this.
No BBQ feast would be complete without the sides. This is a time honored
Texas tradition. The potato salad and coleslaw certainly pass the test
but the Mac and Cheese is over-the-top good and a great complement to
the Que. It's creamy but with the proper texture and crunch. Careful
with this: it can become addictive. And the creamed corn has a very
pleasant taste and most importantly, is not in the least bit thin or
runny.
And if you have a curiosity to see how beer is brewed, just look for
Brian Peters. He's the guy with the glasses and the satisfied look on
his face. I'll tell you what, after dining at Uncle Billy's I had the
same look. The convergence of meat and beer done well, is enough to
please anyone.
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