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(November 12, 2003)
If the concepts of Sushi and South Austin seem incompatible, you may
be correct. Of the 52 Sushi spots in Austin, only two lie S. of Oltorf.
But one of those stands out like a shining beacon glowing from the mist
of Mt Fuji. I speak, of course, of Umi Sushi on 5510 S. IH-35 which
is just south of Stassney.
Umi Sushi has a lovely décor and a very attentive
staff. On my last two visits, I found the atmosphere to be comfortably
informal. And ironically, we were seated next to some dressed for success
business types who had driven quite a few miles from North Austin for
their favorite sushi rolls. They fitted themselves with napkin bibs,
put the wasabi to the soy, and began dipping and munching.
Umi works at many levels of appeal. For the faint
of heart, there are many cooked sushi rolls. For the more adventurous,
there is sashimi, and rolls with raw fish. Or you can opt for Japanese
tempura and teriyaki dishes. But there is most assuredly something for
everyone, regardless of your sushi comfort level.
I like the Soft Shell Crab with Ponzu sauce. What's
Ponzu sauce you might ask? Well, it's one reason why I'm so partial
to Umi. Ponzu blends rice vinegar, sake, soy sauce, seaweed, and dried
bonito flakes. And it's the perfect dipping sauce for the crab and for
sashimi as well. Sushi bars often tend to become predictable in their
sauces. But Umi lives on the edge. Taste sensations you don't often
experience. I like that. And that's why like the Hamachi Kama, or fresh
yellowtail cheek. Again, ethereal flavor in a lovely presentation.
I also enjoy the Gyoza The dumplings impart a knockout flavor that you
will love.
Another must try is the Tuna Tataki. The torched tuna and onion with
Umi's special sauce, served cold, is just too good. Wash this one down
with a cold , gingako jumai sake. Another cool appetizer, or even as
en entree is the Yaki Soba noodles with shrimp. Very tasty and the texture
of the noodles is a blast.
I am very partial to the Dragon Roll. This consists
of eel and avocado on the inside, which lends itself perfectly to the
texture of the eel. And fish eggs with cucumber and crabmeat on the
outside. A bit pricey at $12.25, but definitely worth it. And also try
the Rainbow Roll. The inside of this roll has crabmeat, avocado, fish
eggs, and cucumber and five different types of raw fish and more avocado
wrapped around the outside. Lovely and compelling flavors here. And
the key to all good, sushi rolls, the sticky rice, is always cooked
and handled perfectly.
On the Sashimi side, try the Toro ($7.50 for two pieces) and the Amaebi
($7.00 for two pieces). The Hamachi is also quite good and reasonably
priced at $5.50.
Finish things off with some Green Tea ice cream (theirs is sweet and
creamy) and even if you have to drive all the way back to North Austin,
you'll so with a smile. And imagine if you have to only dive home to
say, Manchaca. Now there's a concept.
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