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(April 27, 2007)
One thing that the Austin
dining scene does not lack in any way is Sushi. At last count, there
were more than 60 restaurants across the city doing various forms of
this amazing Japanese cuisine. Understandably, the competition is ferocious.
So when a small Sushi restaurant opens in a strip mall on Parmer Lane
just past Cool River, one could see how it might get overlooked. But
since its opening last year, Tomodachi, or Tomo for short, has been
anything but overlooked. Before opening Tomo, owner and chef Steve Riad
worked at the ultra hot Nobu in Las Vegas for two and a half years.
And he brought that cool, fun and trendy ambience to Austin.
| I like a sushi chef who does not
take himself too seriously. And the names of some of the Tomo specials
reflect that light hearted but delicious approach to dining. For
example, Sex on the Beach takes yum yum or scallops and blanches
them before covering with fresh salmon. The name has nothing to
do with this spectacular dish but you have to admit it's catchy.
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Another favorite is Something Wrong. This blends
shrimp tempura, soft-shell crab, tuna, salmon and himachi with Steve's
special sauce. I can categorically state that there is absolutely nothing
wrong with Something Wrong. The tastes are wonderful. And how about
the Who's ur Daddy? This is an engaging mix of spicy tuna, asparagus,
and salmon with a spice creamy sauce that absolutely rocks.
The hot dishes at Tomo are equally outrageous. The
names might not be as engaging but the flavors certainly are. The Black
Cod is a must try. Marinated for 72 hours, this delicious "butterfish"
is the epitome of tenderness and textural bliss. I also really like
the Rock Shrimp Tempura. The taste component is off the charts and you'll
want to get it with the butter ponzu sauce. Another killer is the Salmon
Teriyaki with soba noodles. One connects with these flavors immediately
and they are rich and rewarding. The salmon is also perfectly cooked.
And I love the texture of the soba noodles.
Nigiri sushi and sashimi are an integral part of
the appeal of Tomo. My advice, go for the O-Toro. At $12 for two pieces,
this cut from the belly of the tuna is fatty, more pink than the darker-colored
maguro, and delicious. It literally melts in your mouth. Another lighter
choice would be the Himachi or Yellowtail snapper. Equally delicious
on a different level. And no visit to Tomo would be complete without
a bite of the pristine Uni or sea urchin, a favorite of famous Japanese
cooking author Shizuo Tsuji.
Despite his light hearted approach, Steve Riad is
very serious about the quality of the fare at Tomo. And I'll tell you,
I'm very enthused about this place. At 4101 W. Parmer Lane, just north
of Cool River.
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