Tocai Restaurant

Anthony Garcia, the proprietor of west 6th street eatery Tocai, presides over this Mediterranean style restaurant with the authority and credibility not normally seen in someone who has not yet crested the age of 30. Tocai works, I think, because, like its owner, it has passion. The people who bring you Tocai do it with the labor of love and excitement rarely seen it this somewhat jaded city of ours. Take for instance, their passion for wine. And this description from the wine menu: It was said that wife of Charlemagne, back in the 9th century, made him plant Chardonnay grapes because she was fed up with the red stains in his white beard. Hence, the inspiration for the Bouchard Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru...so irreverently and yet passionately served up at Tocai.

Anthony Garcia loves wine. A former sommelier at the Four Seasons, he appears to have instilled that love and knowledge to the rest of his staff. I've been there several times recently and both trips were great. Several months ago I tried the Semolina Gnocchi, browned in butter and tossed with roasted shallots, tomatoes, and spinach. Great dish. The seared foie gras, the new rage dish in Austin, was wonderful. Paired with an organic chicken leg stuffed with potato, fig, and some savory herbs, this is a dish you've gotta try. And Anthony will help you match the wine.

I love their pastas here as well. On my last visit, I had a simple but exquisite dish of penne pasta with a lovely marinara sauce. It might have had a bit of shrimp stock in it ...because the flavor was dramatically enhanced. Absolutely delicious. Also tried the hummus and baba ganoush. Terrific texture, not too oily, and a warm, tender pita to scarf it down with. Really enjoyed it. Finished with a cream brûlée for dessert that might have been served a trifle early but coalesced, nonetheless, into a seriously tasty fare as I was eating it. Tocai is small and intimate. But it can also be lusty and full of that Mediterranean joi de vrie. I like Anthony Garcia...and I seriously like this restaurant.