Thai Tara is a neat little restaurant at 601 W. 6th St. And it has one thing that none of the prior occupants of this space (Lemongrass, Tocai, Mekong Delta) ever had: staying power. And that is because of the serious talent in the kitchen: chef and owner Yupa Rushing. She's been dishing up seriously enjoyable Thai food for over four years now. I know, because I'm pretty close to being a regular.

The appetizers are zesty and for the most part, quite tasty. I particularly enjoy the Siamese Rolls which are light and crispy vegetable rolls served with a Thai sweet and sour sauce. The Cheese Rolls are also a treat. The combination of cream cheese, chives, and mushrooms deep fried in a crispy roll yields a rich and much nuanced flavor. Another favorite is the Tara Wings. These fried wings are coated with a special sweet and spicy glaze and have immediate impact on the palate. And the Corn and Yam patties fall into the absolutely "must try" category. These are flash fried and served with a lovely dipping sauce. The texture of these patties is very engaging and they have an intriguing taste. Another favorite is the Bu-Ngya. This is the Thai equivalent of the quesadilla made of pork, shrimp, garlic and black pepper. It may be my favorite appetizer of all!

If you are a curry fan (and who isn't in these enlightened times) then you will enjoy the Tara Curry Chicken. The beauty of the Thai Tara curry is the stock itself. The stock prevents burning in the early stages of the dish and imparts great flavor along with the requisite spices. And also try the Ginger Scallops and Shrimp. The shellfish are sautéed with a hint of ginger (ask Tyson Cole about ginger!) and a lovely garlic sauce. Very tasty!

And I am a complete and total fan of the Pad (stir-fried) dishes at Thai Tara. The Pad Kee Mao usually works best for me with either pork or tofu. Either way, the stir-fried flat noodles and mushrooms along with Thai chili, basil, garlic and lime leaves creates a dish with an explosive yet not overtly spicy flavor. I can't get enough of it. And the Lard Na continues to be a favorite. It's a kind of Thai stew with noodles and broccoli in an Asian black bean gravy. My only complaint on this dish is on that rare occasion when the gravy is a bit too thin and soupy. And the inevitable, ubiquitous, timeless Thai classic, the Pad Thai is always a reliable and tasty choice. The basics of my optimal version include shrimp, rice noodles, eggs, roasted peanuts, bean sprouts and onions. Wok-fried and always spot on, this dish lives up to the advance billing.

Thai Tara usually draws a very substantial lunch crowd, but inexplicably, many of the evenings are somewhat sparse. So if you are looking for classic Thai cuisine, head out to Thai Tara some evening. You'll almost assuredly get a table and I can assure you: you will enjoy.

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