(March 27, 2009)

I was delighted for two reasons when I learned that the third location of the locally owned Texican was opening at the Brodie Oaks center off S. Lamar near Ben White. The first reason was that The Texican is the real deal. It blends El Paso and New Mexican style cuisines and creates dishes to which I am virtually addicted. The second reason, and this is a bit selfish, was that this new location is closest to my house.

Owner: Mourad Belkacem

The new Texican is in the location that formerly housed Trudy's. Owner Mourad Belkacem has fashioned a very pleasing and casual ambiance and a food and drink menu that simply won't quit. You must start with the Stuffed Jalapenos. These are unique in central Texas, both concept and preparation. The red jalapenos are filled with smooth cream cheese and coated with a dead-on potato batter. The sweet jalapeno jelly finishes the dish. Muy Bien!

The Queso a la Parilla is no less enjoyable. This fulsome combination of white cheese and sautéed vegetables is served with uber fresh flour tortillas. Now that is one seriously good appetizer. The soups at the Texican are authentic. The Shrimp Soup Cozumel is an engaging mixture of fresh, plump shrimp served in a tomato based "sopa". It's topped with fresh cilantro and sprinkled with homemade tortilla strips and lime. Some may find the tomato base a bit overpowering, but for me, well, let's say that I did not have that problem.

Good food begins with a good idea and appropriate execution. Remember that as you wolf down the Monterrey Migas. This a delicious variation on a common Tex-Mex breakfast theme. The eggs are scrambled with a pork tenderloin and cooked in a New Mexican chile sauce with queso and chips. I must tell you this is wicked: great flavors. Another flavor slam dunk is the Tacos al Carbon. Filled with the freshest tortillas this side of Vera Cruz are tender, grilled top sirloin steak strips. A squeeze of lime, a dab of queso, and you have unrelenting taste. And also try the Orange Roughy Cozumel. This dish presents beautifully: the grilled Roughy is served with onions, bell peppers, Serrano peppers and tomatoes along with, interestingly, a lovely Shrimp Enchilada. It all works very well. And the Balons love the Shrimp Flautas. The red chile corn tortillas are stuffed with white cheese and grilled shrimp along with a very smooth ancho mayo sauce. There is a veritable crunch on the first bit when these come out hot. And that means one thing: incredible flavors are to follow!

Last but certainly not least, is the unique and amazing Cabrito. This is tender, young goat roasted in an herb and spice marinade. The meat on first bite is smooth but it's got some texture as well. I've had this dish at least ten times over the years and have yet to tire of it.

Top it off with one of the Texican's soothingly delightful Mexican Martinis and you'd had a meal. The Texican is good news for the Brodie Oaks area!

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