(February 16, 2007)

As the population of Austin continues to grow, more and more chain restaurants are going up, robbing the area restaurant scene of its home-grown quality and original charm. We have to celebrate those local operators who have served their communities over the long haul with passion and excellence. I can think of no finer example than the Texican on S. Manchaca near Highway 1626. Maurad Belkacem and his staff have operated this wonderful restaurant since 1987. And they are going strong.

The Texican serves a blend of New Mexican and El Paso style dishes which feature marvelous flavors and inspired design. Chef Fabian Ramirez has been there since the beginning and shows no sign of slowing down. In fact his Tortilla Soup is nothing less than inspired. He begins with a chicken broth and adds lovely white cheese along with requisite spices. The broth is poured on top of the dry ingredients as it is presented to you. The result is delicious. And the Queso Flameado blows me away. This is not your usual Tex-Mex version; rather, this features sizzling white cheese with chorizo and tortillas. This has a rather limited shelf-life so eat while hot and you will be rewarded with a unique, seared yet mellow flavor. And make sure to try the Stuffed Jalapenos. These are the best in town, without question. The cream cheese in a potato batter just explodes on first bite and the jalapeno jelly is homemade and innovative.

The entrees run the entire taste gamut at The Texican. And those tastes are indeed compelling. The Shrimp Flautas are exquisite: two red chile corn tortillas stuffed with white cheese and grilled shrimp served agonizingly crispy with an ancho mayo sauce! Dios mio!!! What amazing taste. And the new Pork Ribs, which one doesn't often see at a Mexican restaurant, are spot on delicious. The red chile pepper sauce is mesmerizing and the meat has several layers of flavor as it fallsoff the bone. And the Cabrito is another classic that sets the Texican apart. The tender, young goat is a loss leader for the restaurant, but the customer demand is so strong that they keep it on the menu for fear of a revolution. It's that good. And on the lighter but no less wonderful side, try the Orange Roughy Cozumel. This is a grilled Roughy done with onions, bell peppers, serranos and tomatoes. It is delicate but delightful and presented along with a shrimp enchilada with a piquant Tomatillo sauce. Muy bien.

The Texican believes in giving back to the community. Area schools and local athletic programs have seen the flavor of Mauaud's generosity. Despite their success, the Texican has remained true to its culinary roots and to its home base. (A sister store opened in Lakeline Mall several years ago with the same innovative menu.) An Austin original if there ever was one.

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