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Rob's Review
For
steaks, Sullivan’s does the job
Hey
there, restaurant fans. Well, in keeping with the theme of Job Week, what
place do the power mongers and those who aspire to power in Austin seek out?
Where do the people who put the dot in the dot coms come to interview the
next generation of zillionaires? The
answer is as simple as Sullivan's Steak House on Colorado between 3rd and
4th streets in the Warehouse District.
Sullivan's
is an old-school steakhouse in the Chicago style. It's rich and subtle decor
has a decidedly masculine flavor that appeals to the testosterone crowd. And
where there's testosterone, you'll find -- what is it? – estrogen.
Well, that crowd is very well represented too. Why the other night,
we saw a group of distinguished looking silver-haired gentlemen coming in
with a group of 20-something women. My friend remarked that it must be
Grandfather/Granddaughter Night.
Nonetheless,
a restaurant cannot become a landmark for the landed gentry without
delivering the culinary goods. And Sullivan's delivers. I like the Baked
Clams Casino as an appetizer. The key to this dish is the balance between
the garlic and the butter, and Sullivan's nails it.
Also, their crab cakes go down easily and typically don't interfere
with the serious business interview. You know, nervous candidate,
hard-to-digest food ... blahhhhhhh.
I
also like the sliced tomatoes and onions with a tangy vinaigrette dressing.
At $3.95, an ample and very tasty dish. Also, it prepares your palate for
those thunderous mountains of beef about to come.
Can
we talk steaks here? My favorites are the 24-oz. Porterhouse at $26.95 and
the 24-.oz. bone-in Cowboy Ribeye at $24.95. Served just a tad past medium
rare, the flavor of these steaks is almost overwhelming. Actually, if you're
the one conducting the business interview, don't order one because you may
become distracted. They're that good.
I
also like the New York strip at $24.95 and the House Special bone-in Kansas
City 20-oz. strip. I'd skip the sliced steak with peppers and onions because
it simply doesn't compare to the entrees I've just discussed. For a non-beef
alternative, try the lobster tail. Pricey but delicious.
And
the sides? The horseradish mashed potatoes work nicely for me, as does the
broccoli hollandaise. The humongous onion rings ring with authenticity and
taste. The waiters are efficient and knowledgeable, and the bar scene is one
that most restaurants for grownups in this town would kill to have.
Well,
the bottom line is, as you've probably guessed, I like Sullivan’s. Bring
the Gold Card, but plan on being rewarded.
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