One of the really interesting changes in the restaurant world over the past 10 years has been the astonishing improvement of hotel restaurants. In no case is that trend more evident than at the Hyatt Lost Pines Resort near Bastrop.

The Kitchen at Stories

Their signature restaurant is called Stories and I will put it up against anything in central Texas: indeed, I am adding it to my Top 20 list since the unfortunate demise of Vin Bistro. Chef Winston Wither has created an amazing restaurant here. There's a vegetable garden on the property and the chef has built relationships with many local growers and vendors. The appetizers and entrees share the benefits of this infusion of fresh, local fare.

And speaking of appetizers, there are some stunning finds on the menu at Stories. The Crab Salad is simply delicious. The idea is to create a tower of fresh lump crabmeat, hearts of palm, roasted tomato, avocado and an herb coulis. I like to break the tower down until you have an amalgam of all the ingredients. This is crab salad at its best. And also high on my list are the Pan-Seared Diver Scallops. The texture is exquisite but the taste that emerges from the addition of the parsnip puree and parsley macadamia nut pesto is enough to drive me running with glee into the nearby Colorado River.

Crab Salad

And yet another strong recommendation is the Grilled Lockhart Quail. There is both a marvelous creativity and craftsmanship to this dish that sets it apart. The flavor from the burnt orange and honey, the pomegranate, and the pine nuts and frisee make this a quail to be reckoned with. I have not tasted anything this good in central Texas.

After our first visit to Stories, the entrees were even more eagerly anticipated on the 2nd visit. And there was no let down whatsoever. The Roasted Maine Lobster is a classic example of what I like so much about this restaurant. Normally, for me, a lobster accompanied by anything other than melted butter is a faux pas. But imagine a lobster served with cornbread soufflé, grilled smoked bacon, avocado and corn fondue. I was skeptical at first and then simply amazed. The Hand-Made Pappardelle Pasta was a thing of beauty: This is a highly nuanced dish with stunning wild mushrooms, a hint of black truffles, a sheep's milk cheese (Pecorino Toscano) and roasted garlic that all enhance the simple joy of the pasta. Wow! And do not overlook another highly delicious and visually entertaining dish: the Gulf Coast Red Snapper. This preparation is stellar: it begins with a perfectly cooked red snapper adorned with calamari filled with crawfish, then a crispy Serrano ham, saffron and preserved lemon broth. The flavors are not just intriguing (which indeed they are) but unrelenting. There is not an uninteresting bite to be had on this plate!

The wine list is thoughtful, and while not expansive, there are ample pairings for each entrée. And one never knows what amuse bouche might pop up. One night we had the most delightful Big Ugly Tomato in aged balsamic. Again, it was grown on the property: which is where I suggest you repair yourself to as soon as possible. The resort is gorgeous: and after dining at the signature restaurant, no doubt you'll have some Stories as well.

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