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(April
29, 2005)
You know I get a kick out of those ads for the
Olive Garden where they talk about sending their chefs over to Italy for
advanced training. Yeah, right. But Harvey Harris, chef superior at Siena,
one of our fine Italian restaurants, actually did go Tuscany, the 5th
largest land area in Italy, for six months.
He observed the cooking styles at the restaurant of Francisco Beccoccini
in the town of Siena, among others. And he and owner Stan Adams came back
with one heck of a culinary plan for a Tuscan restaurant on 2222 and highway
360.
| There is a grace and elegance to
both the ambiance and the service at Siena. And it complements the
stunning cuisine. One of my favorite appetizers is the Fricassea
di Astice e Porri. You begin with sautéed lobster, leeks
and sun dried tomatoes along with a roasted portabello mushroom.
The sauce of pignoli or pine nuts with fresh tarragon and Vernaccia
wine is nothing short of amazing. The dish is delightful. |
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Another delicious appetizer is the Bruschetta con
Cinghiale alla Toscana. They coat the panini with a ragu of Wild Boar,
roasted onions and Chianti wine. A bit heavier than your typical bruschetta
but lovely. And try the Antipasto Misto Toscano I love Italian antipastas
and this does not disappoint. There's olives, peppers, the classic Grana
Padano: a dry, hard cheese, Tuscan salami, prosciutto, bruschetta with
a tomato salsa and even a crostini with a pate of chicken liver [unusal
for an antipasto] but really nice.
The pasta and meat courses at Siena are equally
well conceived and executed. And given the Tuscan influence, there's
a nice Risotto as well. Mine was stellar with rabbit confit, peas, stewed
tomatoes, and fresh rosemary. It's a marvelous dish. The Arborio rice
is cooked to perfection and the taste just scintillates. Another pasta
favorite is the Farfalle con Piselle e Prosciutto. Chef Harvey knows
how to get the most out of that delightful Italian cured ham, prosciutto
and it shows in this dish. The Farfalle or bow tie pasta blends beautifully
with the mushrooms, peas, red chili, Reggiano cheese and of course,
the cream. The prosciutto complements the flavors but doesn't overwhelm
them. And try the Cacciucco. Another Tuscan tradition, the mix of shrimp,
scallops, fresh fish, calamari, and mussels served in a roasted tomato
sauce over grilled bruschetta is a real treat. And the Medaglione di
Maiale. Grilled pork tenderloin medallions are awesome. The marinade,
in my opinion, is the key here. Garlic, juniper and sage with a fresh
romesmary and then a sauce made from a Chianti wine reduction. This
is bliss for the pork lover.
Sienna is at 2222 and 360 in a building that looks
as if were spirited from the heart of Tuscany. And indeed it was. And
should you be fortunately enough to dine here, you will be whisked away
to Tuscany, vicariously at least, as each lovingly concocted course
arrives. All I can add to this is my own exhortation: Mangia!
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