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(July 27, 2007)
| As any casino operator can tell
you, the Chinese like to gamble a little. Thus, it's not surprising
that John Yim met his wife Alice at a Hong Kong restaurant named
"456" (that number being the optimal sequence in a popular
Chinese dice game). Well, the Yim's have been rolling the dice with
every restaurant they've owned in Austin since starting the original
Shanghai on Koening in 1980! And from there to Marco Polo in S.
Austin , Shangrila in Marble Falls, and now the new Shanghai on
Middle Fiskville Road, they've been coming up sevens every time. |
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Son Raymond Yim is now helming the kitchen and this
guy is fun to watch in action. His Dumplings, to begin with, will make
you a believer. These pork and cabbage potstickers are enormous yet
relatively light and are packed with subtle flavors. Add some ginger
soy vinaigrette and some chili oil and lose yourself! The Deluxe Wonton
Soup delivers serious taste on the first spoonful. A meal unto itself,
this large bowl mixes vegetables, chicken, shrimp, pork, and won tons
with an exemplary and searing broth. No additional seasonings are necessary
here. The flavors are pure. And even something as simple as the essential
Egg Roll, filled with chicken and mixed vegetables, brings a new layer
of sophistication. Not a bit oily, just dead-on with regard to what
you will experience at first bite.
The menu for entrees at Shanghai is long and varied.
But several favorites have emerged after my first two visits. First,
you must try the Chef's Special Tofu. Raymond begins with soft tofu,
mixes it with minced shrimp, deep fries, and serves with a brown sauce.
The first one literally exploded in my mouth and I couldn't stop there.
These Tofu fritters, if you will, are flat out delicious. For those
who prefer a bit more buzz the Hot Spicy Shredded Beef exceeds most
other versions of this dish I've seen around the city. The key is the
tenderness of the beef and the exquisite flavor in Raymond's special
hot sauce. And you will love the Pepper Steak Flat Noodles with Black
Bean Sauce. This dish epitomizes the best elements of Chinese cooking:
immediacy and integration of diverse flavors and textures. The tastes
come at you in huge waves: so much so that this is one time I'm glad
I gave up surfing.
Shanghai has also revived the almost lost art of quality Dim Sum in
Austin. Every weekend from 11am-2pm and from a smaller menu on weekdays,
one can enjoy Sharkfin Dumplings (really make mostly of pork with some
shrimp and shark fin), Steamed Shrimp Dumplings, Pan Fried Pork Dumplings,
and dozens of other choices. The Yims are back and I for one am glad
to have them.
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