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If you've watched the Food Channel on Cable, you've no doubt wandered
into the domain of the Iron Chefs. Taking on all comers, these Conans
of the kitchen engage in the culinary equivalent of war. Working with
whatever ingredients are available and under the pressure of a time clock,
they dice, chop, stir-fry and sauté their way to victory.
Aside from being a James Beard winner, Roy Yamaguchi,
founder of the Roy's restaurant chain, is one of the few, the proud,
Iron Chefs and he recently opened Roy's Austin across from the convention
center. At Roy's Austin, the prevailing concept is Roy's Hawaiian Fusion
that blends European, Pacific Rim and Hawaiian influences.
The first thing you notice about Roy's is that while
it seats 250, design-wise it still feels like an intimate and customer
centered restaurant. There's a very comforting, yet elegant feel to
the place.
On my last visit, I began with what Hawaiians call poke, which literally
means a "fish snack." Roy's version, in deference to Austin's
southwest location is called a pokerita and included pico, cilantro
lime crème fraiche, tuna, avocado, red onion, ogo and soy onion
vin. The taste was terrific.
Next we tried a "canoe" if you will, of
Roy's delightful sides. My favorites were the Maryland style crab cakes
with a chili infused sesame butter and the Mongolian bbq ribs. Both
scored huge marks with me on the flavor meter.
We followed with another canoe. My favorites here
were the macadamia nut crusted mahi with lobster butter sauce. The fish
was firm and impeccably cooked. Also loved the misoyaki charred butterfish
with a sweet ginger wasabi butter. This was so good my companions and
I actually got into dueling chopsticks over the last tender morsel.
| Next came a canoe laden with lemongrass
crusted shutome, which is a Pacific swordfish. This prompted one
of my wine-laden compatriots to snicker, "Isn't 'shutome' what
people from Missouri say?" Actually, it's "show me"
if you'll allow the small jest. And we were delighted they did show
us because it was sensational as was the marinated rack of lamb
with natural butter sauce. |
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The Happy Chefs at Roy's
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Roy's is an amalgam of tastes, some subtle and sophisticated,
some right in-your-face. Yet all very compelling. And they are the byproducts
of a passionate kitchen led by Chef Bill Trevino.
Roy's is next to Fleming's Steakhouse with Valet
Parking available. Prices are in the moderate to high range but absolutely
worth the visit.
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