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(October 8, 2003)
When Star Canyon, in the Stephen F. Austin, closed its doors last year,
many mourned the passing of a restaurant that had opened with great
promise only to be dashed on the rocks of mismanagement and inconsistent
cuisine. I am pleased to report, however, that a new restaurant has
emerged in that space. The front and back of the operation have been
hitting on all cylinders and I, jaded soul that I can be, am buzzed
about this place. Welcome to Robert McGrath's Roaring Fork.
The theme at the Roaring Fork is western: foods
that you could prepare on an iron skillet over a blazing campfire. In
fact, I've lamented that we couldn't have found an extra seat for Chef
McGrath on my family's camping excursions, where my hearty but pathetically
bland campfire stew was the best we could muster. Because this man can
flat out deliver.
The appetizers are both aesthetically pleasing and
delightful to the palate. The Smoked Ruby Trout Salad offers a wonderful
texture in the mix of trout and greens, slices of apple, and red onions
with a nice vinaigrette dressing. Also try the Bluebonnet Hydroponic
salad. All the greens for this are grown in water. With the cranberry
bleu cheese vinaigrette, this is also highly recommended. The Pan de
Campo, which some might call a cowboy version of pizza, is an absolute
taste pleasure. It comes piping hot in a cast iron skillet. The cornmeal
crust has great texture and taste and is adorned with pork, chiles,
green onions and a fulsome mozzarella cheese. It totally works for me.
I love it. Where the hell was this dish on my camping trips? And for
innovation as well as taste, you cannot beat the New Mexico Fondue Pot.
Imagine dipping mini lamb chops into a zesty jack cheese fondue. The
flavor component of this creation is off the charts. This is a must
try. And a favorite of the happy-hour crowd, which has anointed the
Fork as a new "in"destination, is the Big Ass Cheeseburger.
The name speaks for itself, and it's become, in a short time, one of
the best in a city known for cheeseburgers.
The entrees are equally intriguing. I sampled many
from the Forks new tasting menu on my last visit. Try the Sugar and
Chile Cured Duck Breast with green chile macaroni with a pepper jack
cheese. The flavors of this dish are exceptional.
Likewise, kudos to the 8OZ fillet. This dish originally had a whiskey-based
shellac coating the meat which I found to be less than pleasant. Well,
they've changed it to roasted corn and ancho butter sauce that is terrific.
The perfect complement to the beef.
And be sure to try the Herb Rubbed Yellow Fin Tuna. This is served with
four types of mushrooms: chantrell, shitaki, oyster, and Hen of the
woods. They are tossed with the tuna in veal jus with a mustard seed
vinaigrette. Spectacular!
And with whatever entrée you might order, make it a point to
ask for the Smoked Tomato grits with diced poblanos. They are an absolute
blast.
The Roaring Fork has combined creativity, culinary
excellence, and a passion for pleasing the customer into one compelling
dining experience. They are also convenient to the Paramount for you
theatre lovers. So head out there this weekend and tell 'em Rob Balon
sent you.
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