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(June 9, 2006)
The preparation of BBQ in Texas is a time-honored
tradition, as old as the state itself. Recipes for rubs and sauces are
fiercely guarded by their inventors and every BBQ man. The owners of
Pok-e-Jo's BBQ, Doug and Danny, a couple of Austin boys, believe they
too have found that ultimate BBQ secret. They've been rolling out their
unique version of the favored cuisine of Texas since 1979. And with
six stores now, it's safe to say that the dining public has offered
a referendum of sorts. And I'm here today to do the same.
When I go to Pok-e-Jo's, it's invariably a situation where guy meets
lots of food: and in this case we are talking about, as the Coneheads
night have described it, "vast quantities of charred mammo flesh."
I mean seriously, is there any other way?
The brisket at Pok-e-Jo's is tender, appropriately spicy, and possesses
all the requisite flavors required of a good slice of the BBQ world's
favorite beef. Now I am not a brisket fan as a rule, but I would make
an exception for Pok-e-Jo's.The taste just kind of sneaks up on you,
and I like that. The Pork Ribs are also quite good. The operative word
here, and it's vital for ribs, is succulent. They are fall-off-the-bone
tender with a mellow, juicy vibe that leaves a very pleasant aftertaste.
And while not many Texas BBQ emporia offer Beef Ribs, Pok-e-Jo's is
one of the pleasant exceptions. They are big and tasty. And again, about
as tender as beef ribs can be. I would opt for the pork ribs as a matter
of personal taste, but Beef Ribs are definitely worth it for a change
of pace.
But for me, sausage lover that I am, the sausage is what makes it or
breaks it for me at any BBQ joint. And I am buzzed about Pok-e-Jo's
sausage. It is homemade and has that smokey, savory taste with the perfect
texture. More importantly, the casings didn't get rigid after a few
moments. You can cut them with a fork, always a critical indicator.
Of course, as you might imagine, they also have a really tasty Sausage
Wrap. I love these things! And if Pork Loin is your thing, then by all
means belly up to the bar because Pok-e-Jo's has a pretty darned good
one. All in all, I think it's safe to say that Doug and Danny know how
to do pig.
Now for me, BBQ is, has been, and always will be about MEAT! But I recognize
that there are those who prefer foul. Well, the 1/4 pound chicken was
flat out delicious. It had great flavor, the texture was well executed,
and I couldn't stop eating it. Very unusual for me. I was less enthusiastic
about the turkey. I mean it was moist and had an intriguing flavor,
and I'm sure turkey fans would enjoy it. Alas, I'm just not a turkey
fan.
No self-respecting BBQ joint would be complete without its sides. They've
got a boatload of them at Pok-e-Jo's. Of course they have the obligatory
potato salad, coleslaw (which I loved) and beans. All good. But wait!
How about broccoli salad, a baked potato casserole, a green bean casserole,
Texas fries, fried okra, macaroni and cheese, and a baked potato? Baby,
we are talking SIDES!
Well, there you have it? Will Pok-e-Jo's ever get mentioned in the same
breath as the legendary Cooper's or other marquee names of Texas BBQ?
Probably not. But for a couple of Austin guys named Doug and Danny,
I don't think that matters at all. They're having fun and serving up
pretty darned good smoked meats to an increasing customer base. Life
is good.
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