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(December 1, 2005)
The Paggi House has been one Austin's most iconic restaurants for years
and years. Set back from Riverside Dr. in a romantic carriage house
that dates back to the 1840's, and named for the Paggi family, it has
delighted thousands of customers since the late 1970's.
It is now under new ownership with a terrific new
chef and a whole different attitude and style. And the food, while it
has undergone a transition, is every bit as good as the original restaurant.
The appetizers are flavorful and very original.
But critically, they have kept the acclaimed Jackson Salad, a Paggi
house favorite. The salad mixes fresh avocadoes, tomatoes, bacon, mushrooms
and homemade croutons topped with a Maytage blue cheese vinaigrette
dressing. As good as the original. And also try the Grilled Caesar Salad.
The beauty of this dish is that they grill the romaine lettuce, tomatoes,
and onions. This imparts an amazingly rich and nuanced flavor that you
will love. And I had a Cream of Crab Soup that was just to die for.
It had a nice, mellow quality to it with a flavor that really carried
through each spoonful. Likewise, you must try the Hummus. This intriguing
version of the Mediterranean classic features fire roasted peppers,
shallots, garlic and garbanzo beans and it is smooth and seriously good.
The entrees at Paggi feature a "small plates"
kind of appeal. The idea is smaller dishes that can be shared so that
the dining experience can be more communal. I've had the Shitake Mushroom
and Sweet Potato hash .The flavor from the fresh ground chillis is amazing
and when the fresh Alaskan salmon is added, it's just takes it to a
higher level of taste. Also the Seared Scallops and Sweet Corn Grits.
This dish is so creative. The scallops are presented with almost perfect
corn grits and two slices of honey smoked bacon that makes this a dish
that is almost sensual in its taste appeal, And another winner: The
Charred Lamb Chops. These are presented with a roasted garlic cheese
cake that is just aching to be spread over the chops. In fact, the chef
mandates it. And the flavors here are most compelling. I love this dish
as well. And make sure to try the Honey Apple Short Rib. If you are
a fan of the genre, this dish will make you a believer. The meat is
tender and literally falls off the bone. You could easily polish off
a number of these without even realizing it.
The Paggi house is one of those happy endings. A
restaurant that underwent a transition and was up to the challenge.
Kudos to chef George Thomas and the entire management team. This is
a place you need to try, pronto!
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