For many years, the Oasis on Lake Travis was in search of a reasonable level of food quality to go along with its spectacular views and sunsets. Indeed, I was one of their most vocal critics. However, about four years ago, a new kitchen was built, new chefs added, and finally, The Oasis emerged with a very tasty and serviceable menu: not the Four Seasons, but then it was never supposed to be. Owner Beau Theriot wanted reliable, fun food. And he got it.

And then, tragically, an early morning lightning storm sparked a horrific fire that leveled most of the restaurant. Yet even as the ashes lay smoldering, Theriot started the rebuilding process. The Oasis was back serving food in three days: from a temporary kitchen at the place where the restaurant normally hosted live music.

And now, three amazingly frustrating years later, a new Oasis has risen out of those ashes of yesteryear. The physical lay out is absolutely gorgeous. And Chef Matthew Wayland has a sparkling new kitchen from which many goodies are emerging. And the view: well, that's as good as ever.

The appetizers are engaging. Nothing complicated, just tasty comfort food that goes down very easily. My favorite is the Piratas. Beau Theriot brought this dish back from Acapulco. It's grilled beef fajita meet with Jack cheese toasted into flour tortillas and served with guacamole, lime, red onion and cilantro. Careful with these. They can be addictive. And the same can be said for the little Fireballs. These spicy chicken bites served with ranch dressing are the foul equivalent of cold, peanut M&Ms. There's a tendency to consume more than you should. Another dish that the old Oasis could have never pulled off is the crispy Crawfish Cakes. The texture is spot on, the flavor is pristine, and the jalapeno ranch sauce works perfectly. And the crispiness is a bonus. And don't forget the Tortilla Soup. It is as it should be: a spicy, tomato-based soup with a hearty chicken stock covered with tortilla strips.

There are new treats as well at The Oasis. Again, dishes that would have been impossible to do five years ago. Like the Pulled Pork Relleno. This is a four-star dish with braised pork stuffed in an Anaheim chile that's coated in a Tecate beer batter and deep fried. It's drizzled with a red chile sauce and crema Mexicana. And Chef Wayland nails it! Also try the Shrimp Tacos. The shrimp are fried with that same Tecate beer batter and served in warm tortillas with a zesty baja sauce drizzled over the shrimp, jalapeno slaw, and tomatoes. This is a crunchy, crispy, little empanada-shaped taste delight.

Also new to the Oasis menu is a very nicely done and perfectly marbled 14 oz. Ribeye. Are you getting the picture here? And how about the Jumbo Fried Shrimp? These prawns require absolute precision in the cooking process: underdone, a watery disaster. Overdone, a tough chewy disappointment. And unlike the Oasis of old, every time I've had this dish it has been consistent and tasty. Try it! And we could not conclude without a quick look at the Tilapia. While this may be an invasive species of fish, the flesh is a white meat of moderate texture and as prepared by Chef Matthew, delicious!

So let's welcome back the brand new Oasis: both from the fire that almost destroyed it and from the old impressions of inadequate food. Except for the occasional margarita that might get a bit watery, there is nothing inadequate about this place. Oh yeah, and they still ring the bell at sunset! Wouldn't you?

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