Rob's Review

North By Northwest

Hey there restaurant fans. I ventured north last week, well actually, north by northwest to a very intriguing restaurant of the same name. The place abounds with contradictions. On first blush it seemed noisy, yet we were seated in a very sedate and comfortable room. It seemed yuppie-ish, yet on a closer examination, the crowd was mixed and all appeared to be enjoying the fare. The name would seem to imply Seattle type food (hence the northwest moniker) and yet the most amazing dish I tasted was a skillet-fried cornbread that had to have its origins somewhere in Texas, the heart of cornbread country. The taste of this dish, which is accompanied by goat cheese and a portabello-crimini mushroom sauce is absolutely overwhelming. I may have set the land speed record among food critics for devouring an appetizer. Such was the flavor of this little critter. It may be the light oil marinade that's used before the frying begins, but I have never tasted anything where the ingredients seem so disparate (I mean cornbread, mushrooms and goat cheese???) and the final result was so incredibly tasty. If for no other reason, you must go to North by Northwest to taste this skillet fried cornbread.

Yet there are other reasons.  I loved the pan-seared salmon with a whole grain mustard sauce served over a corn soufflé and seasonal vegetables. My wife Marge had the herb-crusted rotisserie chicken, which was also very nice.

I did not love the response from my waitress when I asked if the chef could whip me up a bit of sour cream/horseradish sauce on the side. "That would be impossible on a Friday night," she replied. Sorry, unacceptable. It takes about four seconds to scoop a dollop of horseradish into a half a cup of sour cream. The request was not unreasonable. Last time I looked, the restaurant business is about service.

But my special sauce request aside, I liked this place. It has a bustling, yet not overwhelming energy, and the dishes are well thought-out and executed. They also make their own brews here and you can sample before you order. I first tried the Duckebish Amber, which was too wheaty for my taste, but I really enjoyed the Northern Light, as my taste in beer tends toward the lighter side anyway. I saw a number of patrons busily and happily engaged in sampling and tasting process.

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