(July 21, 2006)

Welcome to the third installment of our month-long series on healthy dining. My team, Rob’s Reducers, in the 1 Ton of Fun charity weight-loss challenge to benefit Big Brothers/Big Sisters is doing just great. And you too can continue to have your proverbial cake and eat it as well if you step out of the box a bit and check out Nu Age at Windsor and Exposition in Tarrytown.

And let’s not even bother with the vegan label. Because the tastes and textures at Nu Age are so original, so nuanced, and so integrated, that even a die-hard carnivore like me will be very happy here.

The appetizers are a prelude to what you will find at every course at Nu Age: interesting and delicious flavors, none of which have that “healthy” aftertaste if you know what I mean. I love the Nu Age Dumplings. These are a delight. You take thin spinach and wheat dough and stuff it with carrots, celery, cabbage, bok-choy and black mushrooms. I like them seared with soy and chili oil. Wow! Another over the top appetizer is the Rainbow Soy Wrap. Chef Ethel makes a home-made red yeast rice batter within which are wrapped carrots, enoki mushrooms, soy, snow peas, bamboo shoots and cabbage. They are perfect with a piquant red sauce for dipping. And who doesn’t like Edamame? The Five Seasons Edamame at Nu Age is a blast. You want flavor? How about edamame that is lightly toasted and then seasoned with anise, ginger, pepper, cinnamon and cloves. Now that’s mélange of seasonings to intrigue Buddha himself.

I usually love my Pad Thai with shrimp or pork. But Nu Age’s Pad Thai has such an amazing flavor that the shellfish or meat is not missed. The dry bean curd provides the crunchy texture and the rice noodles, sautéed with bean sprouts, onions, soy protein, Napa cabbage, and carrots are delightful. And pasta fans will enjoy the Pesto Linguine. Two things elevate this dish: The homemade spinach and the lovely blend of Italian herbs and pesto. And it’s garnished with vegan parmesan, pignoli, and avocados. The quality of this dish is typical of the care and preparation that goes each entrée at Nu Age.

Chef Ethel must be indefatigable. Because it takes time to turn the raw wheat gluten or seitan (say-THAN) into textured strips that taste like the most exquisite beef. You must try the Sesame Seitan. Served over kale and brown rice with sesame seeds in a seriously good brown sauce, this dish absolutely had me questioning the veracity of my taste buds. Could the hearty dish I was enjoying actually be vegan? Well, try it for yourself. You will agree. And you want texture? The Sizzling Soy Fajitas will then blow you away. The platter comes out just like at your favorite tex-mex restaurant. But the soy protein has an amazing BBQ flavor and it tastes like pork. I mean flat out delicious. And with fewer than half the calories of your average tex-mex platter.

And the Honey Berry Soy Pie will seal the deal for all nonbelievers. This is cheesecake made from tofu topped with a sauce of mixed berries. And the crust is tender and delectable. It’s hard to believe this falls in the good-for-you category.

Nu Age is at Windsor and Expostion at the former site of the much beloved Holiday House. For all you fans of the HH still holding a grudge, don’t take it out on Nu Age. They just moved into a space that was available. My advice: Avail yourself of their original and extremely edible cuisine. Your heart and your stomach will thank you.

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