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(December 14, 2007)
Thus far, the Domain off N. Mopac has been a first class operation.
The management team has chosen their retailers well and they've
done a good job with the restaurants too. Case in point is the subject
of this week's review: NoRTH which is much, much more than the typical
chain restaurant that one finds at so many malls these days. |
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The décor of NoRTH suggests a fun mood with
perhaps a bit of whimsy. But there's nothing whimsical about the food.
This they take very seriously. We've dined there twice now and the concept
of light, modern Italian as articulated by Executive chef Chris Christiano
is well-executed by the chefs in Austin. I love the Crisp Calamari with
baby arugula and grilled lemons. This dish doesn't come off tasting
as the same-old-calamari-that everyone-else-is-doing. The flavor is
distinct and very pleasant and the arugula really works with it. I wasn't
quite sure on the first visit about the Bruschetta. But the second tasting
made me a believer. The creamy Crescenza cheese is what really sets
it apart. The asparagus and prosciutto di parma seal the deal. Try this.
NoRTH's version of Caprese Salad with fresh mozzarella, locally grown
tomatoes, basil and aged balsamic vinegar is another strong recommendation.
The various ingredients yield a beautifully integrated flavor that's
very hard to turn away from. And the Meatballs with a pomodoro sauce
and reggiano parmesan cheese are exceptionally tasty without being heavy-handed.
This is again in keeping with the light touch one sees here.
The entrees at NoRTH are both comforting and engaging.
But there are no slam dunk flavor blasts here. The tastes have a way
of sneaking up on you which I much prefer. A good example of this are
the Seared Sea Scallops with Orzo in a saffron brodo [broth]. I really
like this dish because of its subtlety. Everything unfolds in a languid,
rapturous parade of tastes. And equally interesting is the Strozzapretti
which translates to "priest strangler" in Italian. The pasta
has the shape of a rolled towel. But with the spinach, pine nuts, mushrooms
and parmesan cream, it delivers a taste that is smooth and delightful.
Can't imagine anyone strangling on this one. And I do enjoy the Short
Rib Oso Buco served with a lovely white polenta. The requisite order
for this dish is meat that's fall-off-the-bone tender: NoRTH delivers.
I was full and yet felt compelled to keep eating: it was that good.
Another Italian staple is the Grilled Pork Chop. Could be heavy but
the chef had a deft touch. The chop was just the right texture (this
can get away from you) and the Madeira braised greens were a nice complement.
So don't be hesitant. NoRTH is miles ahead of any
Italian chain restaurant I've eaten at recently. It does get a bit crowded
and noisy, but hey, that surely beats empty and silent. And there's
a reason: the food is damned good.
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