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(September 30, 2005)
Mesa Ranch, a new restaurant at the corner of Spicewood and Mesa, advertises itself as a true Texas grill. The emphasis is on wild game, steaks, chops and a good, hot mesquite fire. And then let nature and a good chef take over.
So far so good in my opinion. The ambiance is laid back Texas cool with a nod toward comfort... The bar is first rate and there’s music most nights. The place just exudes that kind of Texas cachet that puts you at ease, and gives you an appetite.
And on that note you’ll be rewarded. Try the Grilled Poblano Rellenos filled with Mexican cheeses along with succulent grilled shrimp. The accompanying corn salsa is delightful. What a mélange of flavors. Now poblanos can be unpredictable on the heat scale, but hey, isn’t that part of the fun? Try this dish! It rocks. And the Grilled Salmon with purple cabbage and apple slaw, while much different in taste and texture than the poblano, is equally tasty and compelling. Wrapped in a whole wheat tortilla with a zesty avocado cilantro sauce, the little bite-sized morsels are just about irresistible. And what would a true Texas grill be without at least something out of the King ranch school of flavors? The Mesa Ranch Chicken Soup has got that King Ranch casserole vibe going and it’s mellow yet very engaging. Served with cilantro and onion and lime wedge, I ordered a cup and immediately regretted it. This is a soup that demands a bowl.
The salads were decent but what really stood out was the corn bread. Shaped like little cacti, I haven’t had cornbread like this since the heyday of Chef Jim Trippi at the Downtown Marriott. It had texture, taste, a little bite, I loved it.
You can probably predict at least one of the entrees that yours truly would have tried at true Texas grill. You bet. The Grilled 22oz. Bone-In Ribeye. This had a flavor that would resonate all the way to Perrini’s in Buffalo Gap, that’s how good it was. The beef was beautifully marbled with that wonderful smoky flavor and as a nice touch, was served with a large, grilled portabello mushroom which I loved. The grilled asparagus was a delight: tender yet crisp. I really enjoyed the flavor. And once again the King Ranch philosophy was evoked with the Shredded Mesa Ranch Chicken and tomatillo filled corn tortillas. Served with a creamy poblano sauce and seasoned rice, this dish works well as a first tasting or upon as second helping after a microwave warm-up for lunch the next day as I did. The flavors are ethereal.
Steve Ray, who goes back a way to the old Texas Tumbleweed on 2222 knows his way around a true Texas grill. And thanks to his vision, this is no longer a lost culinary art. Mesa and Spicewood, open for lunch and dinner. It’s comfortable, but absolutely no spitting is allowed.
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