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(November 3, 2006)
McCormick and Schmick’s is one of the few chain
restaurants that I am really comfortable reviewing. The reasons are
many.
| Manager Rich Everett is a seasoned
pro who knows customer service and has developed a unique understanding
of Austin’s taste in his relatively brief tenure here. The
fish is achingly fresh. Flown in daily. NOTHING ever frozen except
the ice cream. And the new chef, Joe Ramirez, is a pleasure to watch
at work. His dishes have an ease about them; an engaging simplicity
yet layered with wonderful tastes and nuances. |
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I always begin, unfailingly, with one of their primal
comfort dishes, the zesty Seafood and Corn Chowder. It has a mellow
yet engaging flavor and it’s not overly thick. In fact, the texture’s
perfect. A nice beginning to a lunch or dinner. And even though the
Kumamoto oyseters no longer grace the menu, the result of the state
of Texas’ battle with the Pugent Sound producers, there are still
great North Atlantic oyster choices (the Malpeque or the Duxbury) to
go around. I get a dozen, sometimes two. Talk about health food? And
don’t ever overlook the Black Mussels steamed in a red curry broth.
Great taste. And the perfect sauce for soaking in that rich, sourdough
bread. Another favorite is the Popcorn Shrimp. These are lightly breaded
and served with a sherry mayo. The taste is light and they are virtually
irresistible. Oh, and lest I forget, the Lump Crab Cakes. These are
flash fried, with very little binder, (the crab is the king) and if
you like crab, this dish is for you. It’s a rich, rewarding dish.
As we mentioned, all seafood entrees are flown in
fresh daily. Nothing is frozen. I like the Atlantic Salmon. Stuffed
with brie cheese, crab and bay shrimp, the confluence of flavors in
this dish complement the salmon. The taste is subtle, not overwhelming,
and it works. Another recommendation is the Sea Scallops. These are
pan-seared in butter with a spinach sauté and a risotto cake
that absorbs the flavor of the sauce. Very decadent and quite tasty.
And their Fish and Chips continues to be a favorite. The batter in this
classic dish is sturdy and complements the fresh, dense cod. This is
a crispy, crunchy amalgam of good flavor served with tasty fries and
a slaw. And the Petrale Sole Parmesan is an enduring favorite. The Beurre
Blanc sauce is wonderfully fulsome and lifts the flavor of this lovely
fish to a new level. And for the steak lovers (always an issue in Austin)
M&S does not disappoint. The 14oz NY strip grilled in butter is
a keeper. Beautifully marbled and cooked to perfection, I’ve watched
my carnivorous son-in-law devour this on many an occasion.
McCormick and Schmick’s is not without its
flaws. Service can be a trifle spotty on occasion. The wait for the
check can sometimes last longer than it should. But we must remember
that we live in Austin: not the epicenter of professional, career waiters.
By and large, M&S gets that part right. And the food part they almost
always get right. At 4th and Congress in the Batman Bulding, this is
a restaurant worthy of your consideration. And remember, if you’re
carving a 3, 4, or 5 pound Maine lobster, just call ahead. They can
order it for you.
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