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(September 16, 2005)
There are vast culinary changes sweeping across the USA: the fusion of Asian and Latin American flavors proving to be enormously popular on the coasts, and the emergence of Indo Chinese quisine, which is gaining momentum not only in New York and LA, but also in central Texas. Indo Chinese blends Chinese wok cooking [kadai] along with more traditional and [zestier] Indian spices. This trend began in Bombay, where Chinese food is very popular, and has spread out from there.
The Austin home of Indo-Chinese cuisine is at Masala Wok. In Indian, Masala refers to a blending of spices. And the wok part is self explanatory. This recently opened restaurant at 1110 Center Ridge Drive is in the Shops at Tech Ridge Center off IH 35 near Howard Lane. It is a comfortable spot in the fast-casual mode. You order off the menu as you walk in, and the food is brought to your table.
The appetizers are really quite tasty. I very much enjoyed the Chicken Lollipops. Don’t let the unusual name fool you. The taste of these deep fried chicken morsels coated in a fiery batter merits your attention. I also enjoyed the Spring Rolls. Stuffed with fresh vegetables and deep fried, they had a rich flavor yet a crispy texture. And the Samosas, the classic Indian pastry puffs stuffed with potatoes and peas, had an appealingly mellow flavor; nicely nuanced without overdoing the curry. The only disappointment was the Original Masala Wings which were a bit on the dry side.
But it’s in the entrees where the originality of Masala Wok really shines. On the Indian side, the Chicken Tikka Masala, cooked in a creamy tomato sauce, resonates with the spicy yogurt marinade and provides lip-smacking flavor. Also liked the Shrimp Masala. I love curry and you don’t often get to see a dish like this with the onions and tomatoes blending with a spicy curry and really lifting up the flavor of the shrimp. On the Wok side, try the Chicken Manchuria. I had this wok-cooked treat in a special Manchurian sauce spiced with masalas. Get it with the noodles. Really nice flavors. Also enjoyed the Pepper Masala. I tried the shrimp version of this dish cooked in a hot pepper sauce that I thought had a nice flavor. The heat factor didn’t obscure the taste of the shrimp as can often be the case. And if you’re looking for a bit more heat, try the Blazing Masala Noodles. The noodles arrived nicely al dente and the flavor (tried the chicken version) was quite satisfying. Now remember, yours truly tends to like things that are “muy caliente” so choose according to your own heat quotient.
Of course no Indo-Chinese restaurant would be worthy of its tandoor if it did not offer up some quality Nan, the ethereal leavened bread. Masala Wok rises to the occasion here.
Now remember, the environment is fast casual. We’re not talking about lingering, romantic dinners over candlelight. But what it purports to be, Masala Wok does a good job. Prices are quite reasonable. So take out, or dine in, and discover one of the hottest new food trends in the US.
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