You know there are some restaurnts in the city that take on an image that may or may not be reflective of what really goes on there. The Mansion at Judge's Hill is a good example of that. Sounds a bit portentous doesn't it. Maybe even a trifle stuffy. A place where you might get dressed up and take grandma so she can wear her white gloves. Where the patrons speak in hushed, quiet tones and the mood is reverential.

Well, allow me to shred yet another myth. The Mansion at Judge's Hill is very contemporary, you don't have to genuflect when you walk in the door, and the menu is extremely tasty and accessible. It's not your once-a-year kind of dining experience; morever, it's a place that merits regular visits, and not just by ladies who lunch. Sterling Affairs, one of Austin's oldest and most preminent catering firms, has taken over the kitchen operations and they have done a "sterling" job.

The appetizers are thoughful, varied, and reflect the excellence that the Sterling chefs bring to the daily dining experience. I am smitten by the Creamed Potato and Fennel Soup. The tastes here are wonderful, the texture is perfect, and there is an immediate flavor rush on first bite that's almost irresistible. I also enjoy their Cured Meats plate or charcuterie. This is a plate that's difficult to share. Because when you taste the Pepper and Coriander Cured Beef over Bruschetta with roma tomatoes, basil, garlic, and arugula in a balsamic reduction: well, you will become possessive and territorial. It's that good. The Thai Crab Cakes, creatively done in a lemon grasss-chile oil remoulade, will linger with you long after the last bite. Really nice dish. And the crowning achievement from the kitchen is the Duck Confit and Exotic Mushroom Quesadillas. The tortillas are laden with perfectly prepared duck confit, the funghi add to the flavor, and the chipotle salsa and salsa verde add some zest and tang, a bit of ying and yang to the dish. Marvelous.

The entrees again, are very accessible. Nothing so complicated that they would put off the palate of the average diner. And they are flat out delicioius. I had the Judge Ribeye recently. This is 16 ounces of prime, marbled bliss. I am talking melt-in-your-mouth tenderness, amazing taste. One of the best in the city. And the Seared Sea Bass is another study in seriously good flavor and perfect texture. Presented with portabello mushrooms, asparagus, and a lovely sea bass and brie spring roll, this dish will plese the most discerning or the most casual seafood fan. And for those who are lovers of that quintessential favorite, Rack of Lamb, the Mansion delivers again. A stunning dish with a pan-seared rosemary rack of lamb, a delectable milanese risotto, and arugula with a zesty mustard vinaigrette, and its all finshed off in a sauce of port scented black currants. Something simpler? How about the Pancetta and Goat Cheese Chicken Roulade. Chicken breasts can be dry, but this style lends itself to a moist and flavorful presentation which is tasty, and again, very acessible.

The Mansion also presents dinners featuring entertainment and cabaret style shows on selected nights. The recent Barbra Streisand homage was a fun and tasty example. The Mansion is open for dinner nightly and remember, don't let the name throw you. It's lovely yes, but you can leave the white gloves at home. This is a casual upscale kind of place. Come as you are, but just do yourself a favor, and come. At MLK and Rio Grande.

Top of page