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(February 27, 2004)
The Vo family comes from Giddings, Texas. After years of successfully
operating a Chinese restaurant there, Mr. Vo brought his brood to Austin
and reopened Lotus Hunan in Westlake at Bee Caves Road and Walsh Tarlton,
next to the new Holiday House. Mr. Vo may be Vietnamese, but his skill
at the Chinese wok is considerable. Son Raymond runs the front of the
store, ably assisted by sister Kim and, of course, Mrs. Vo is a whirlwind
of activity.
In just a brief time, Lotus Human has established
a regular clientele, and for good reason. I think their egg drop soup
is absolutely delightful. It has a mellow, satisfying flavor. But it's
not bland like so many other egg drop soups. And the hot and sour seafood
soup is equally intriguing. It presents beautifully and it tastes even
better. And don't forget to try the Sesame Fish for an appetizer. I
love the texture of the fish and the taste is dead on. Also stellar
are the potstickers (pan fried dumplings). Served with chile oil and
soy mixed with vinegar, these dim sum of ground pork are delectable
and savory. The shrimp toast, Mrs. Vo's spcecialty, is also a crispy
and tasty pleasure. This appetizer can get greasy, but not at Lotus
Hunan.
I have more favorite entrees here than I have time
to discuss them. But let me try. The Sesame Shrimp is one of my favorites.
Mr. Vo adds just the right amount of spice do this dish, which in my
opinion, is one of the best of its kind in central Texas. Ask for yours
kicked up a notch and see it you don't agree. Another really interesting
dish is the Shrimp With Eggplant in a lip-smacking brown sauce. The
eggplant blends perfectly with the shrimp and gives the dish a textural
integrity that's hard to beat. Order it next time you come. And the
Young Duck Ginger Root will get your heart thumping. The dish features
boneless meat of duck stir fried in a mellow brown sauce with scallions
and ginger. Not greasy at all, but bursting with flavor. The Hot and
Spicy Fish Fillet is an amazing dish. Vo begins with bite size pieces
of fish and fries them with bell peppers, water chestnuts, and carrots.
Not only does it present beautifully, but flavors of the disparate ingredients
mingle perfectly. And another stellar player on the roster is my daughter
Lauren's favorite: Chicken with Broccoli. A simple dish, but one rewards
each time out a very subtle presentation of tastes and flavors. And
a relative of that dish: the classic Kung Pao Chicken, gets its fare
share of orders at Lotus. And Lotus, because of it's wide delivery range,
has become a favorite of the take-out crowd as well.
So head up to Lotus Hunan at Bee Caves and Walsh
Tarlton in Westlake and meet the Vo family. They will treat you like
family and make you feel at home. Just don't linger long enough to get
into a game of Pai Gow poker with Mrs. Vo. Or you may find yourself
working in the kitchen.
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