I have a friend who is always asking me: "Found any good little joints lately?" In the case of Los Pinos on 4919 Hudson Bend Road off Highway 620 near the dam, the answer is a rousing "yes". Los Pinos isn't long on ambiance but it may be one of the best Mexican restaurants not only in the Lakeway area, but in all of Austin.

Chef and proprietor Margarito Maldanado is as innovative and inventive a chef as you'll find in this area. He had paid his dues, literally and figuratively, and working with and under all-star chefs like Michaeal Vilim (Mirabelle) and Dean Fearing (The Mansion at Turtle Creek) left a serious impression on the young chef. So when you see the dishes start to arrive at Los Pinos, everything from the simple quesos to the more complex Shrimp Al Mojo de Ajo, it is immediately obvious that this cook's métier is beautifully complex and rewarding flavor.

The Queso Fundido is a great example of the care that Maldanado brings to each dish. The first time I tried the melted Jack cheese topped with chorizo, pico de gallo, and poblano peppers served with thick and wonderfully fresh corn tortillas, I was immediately smitten with the flavors and the accommodating texture. The Mushroom Quesadillas are another Margarito specialty. The mushrooms blended with the Jack cheese on a very fresh flour tortilla and accompanied with guacamole, sour cream, pico de gallo and jalapenos will delight all lovers of funghi. And you have to try the Tortilla
Soup. This has improved since my last review. Based on a Dean Fearing recipe, it is less stew-like and more soup-like as it should be. Very tasty.

The Rellenos at Los Pinos are another very special series of offerings. I am really fond of the Cheese and Ground Beef with a Poblano Pepper. I would recommend the chili con queso sauce or the chili con carne. Both work beautifully on this massive dish.

The Fajitas are always excellent at Los Pinos. I would recommend the Fish (with a tilapia) or the Shrimp. Both have a savory, almost irresistible flavor offset with sautéed vegetables done al dente. Again, I love those corn tortillas.

And you have to try the Carnitas de Puerco. I am a sucker for great carnitas but for me they to be moist yet a little crunchy. Los Pinos delivers! These morsels of fried pork are marinated in orange juice and Margarito's proprietary blend of spices. Served with seriously tasty frioles and arroz, this dish has a rich, crispy flavor that resonates with quality. And one last recommendation: The Beef in Chipotle Cream Sauce. This is a tasty sautéed skirt steak (a cut from the diaphragm muscle of the cow) done in a lovely chipotle cream sauce with mushrooms, corn and Jack cheese. Wow!

If you have room, the Sopapillas are tender, have a delightfully light texture, and are hard to stop eating. Because Los Pinos is so much more than one might expect: this restaurant really needs to be taken seriously. It's well worth it.

Top of page