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(February 1, 2008)
You know I have a prevailing philosophy: if in doubt when naming an
Italian restaurant, always opt for the name of a popular opera. You
simply can't miss in that case. Giuseppe Verdi knew a thing or two about
opera and his magnificent La Traviata (The Wayward Woman), written in
1853, showcases the unfortunate Violetta as she vows to live a life
dedicated to pleasure. Again, I say, great name! Because Marion Gilchrist's
incomparable Congress Ave. restaurant, named after the Verdi opera,
has given yours truly years of dining pleasure.
Opened in 2000, La Traviata has
aged like a fine Brunello. A true Italian trattoria, La Traviata
showcases Gilchrist's passion for building simple dishes that ultimately
reverberate with layers of taste. In no dish is this skill more
evident than in her lovely Bruschetta with Roasted Bell Peppers
and Goat Cheese. I've had this appetizer probably a dozen times
and I've never been disappointed. The peppers and cheese create
wonderful layers of flavor on the crostini and the accompanying
arugula seals it. Equally simple yet terrifically satisfying is
the Crispy Polenta with gorgonzola cream sauce. The polenta, infused
with rosemary, is perfectly crisp. The sauce is rich and luxurious.
Together, they make magic. And no trip to La Traviata affords more
pleasure than whatever soup Marion happens to be making that day.
I've tried them all: mushroom, cauliflower, butternut squash, the
flavor and the texture are unremitting because they are not tricked
up with additives. Everything flows from the fresh vegetables that
begin process. You can never make a poor selection when ordering
a soup from
La Travita. |
Chef Marion Gilchrist |
The entrees at La Traviata range from sumptuous
pastas to an astounding duck confit and all are superb. The Rigatoni
with Spicy Lamb meatballs tastes as good today as when it first amazed
me eight years ago. The keys to this dish are the subtle flavors of
the roasted tomato sauce and the lingering spiciness of the lamb meatballs.
Each bite is a mini aria. And the Spaghetti Carbonara continues to delight.
The origins of the name of this dish (carbonara means charcoal in Italian)
are lost in obscurity: but the key difference between the American version
and Italian version is the use of cream. La Traviata's version offers
spaghetti lightly coated with cream, butter, lemon and topped with an
egg yolk. Of course, the obligatory pancetta (bacon only as last resort)
completes this mini fresco. What flavor!
And who better to present a Cioppino than someone who studied in San
Francisco? Gilchrist's take on this classic west coast seafood stew
in a white whine garlic sauce is spot on. What I particularly like about
the dish is that it's not runny: the sauce maintains its texture.
Finish with the beautifully imagined Granita (shaved
ice) for dessert and your feast is complete. Too bad Verdi's Violetta
couldn't have ended her quest for pleasure at the restaurant named after
her opera. She might have demanded a rewrite in the libretto so she
could stay around longer!
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