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(August 19, 2005)
One thing I like about this area of Texas is the influence of central
and eastern European cultures on our cuisine choices. The Germanic influences
from New Braunfels to Fredricksburg are widely known and appreciated.
The Czech influence is less known, but I suspect, equally appreciated
and consumed: we are of course talking about the ubiquitous and much
loved kolache.
Kolaches derive from wedding pastries in Czechoslovakia. These sweet,
baked breads were stuffed with everything from fruits and jams to sausages.
When many Czechs migrated to Galveston, Texas 150 years ago, they brought
these traditions with them.
Ideal for breakfast, or for a snack at any time, they are a fixture
in many small Texas towns. And in Austin, we have the epicenter of kolaches,
on Burnet Road next to the Dallas nightclub, The Kolache Shoppe.
Owner Robert Ahrens has perfected his kolache dough
and his craft for the past 25 years. And the product of his work is
irresistible. I love the Jalapeno Sausage and Cheese. The bite of the
jalapeno in the sausage contrasts with the sweet and savory bread. The
result is a comforting and ethereal taste sensation that is hard to
say no to. My problem is to stop eating them after just one or two.
The Sausage kolaches are smaller and can be downed in a couple of bites.
Again, this is the penultimate example of the old "pigs in a blanket"
favorite that I loved when I was a kid. But the smoothness of the bread
makes elevates this blanket to a whole different level. The Ham, Egg,
and Cheese kolache is another favorite for breakfast. Again, the sweet
dough just seems to make the perfect complement for almost anything
meat or egg product that goes into it.
The fruit-filled kolaches are another side of the
endless possibilities that await the kolache eater. The Kolache Shoppe
makes many varieties, and my favorites include the Cherry, Apple, Raspberry,
and Blueberry. These fruit flavors are not overly sweet and have a nice
balance. Why does that phrase "hard to resist" keep popping
up?
The Kolache Shoppe also makes killer Cinnamon Raisin
Rolls and Sticky Buns. The taste of these is quite literally off the
charts. They are light, sweet, texturally pleasing, and perfectly balanced.
We brought a batch over to our office several weeks ago and they were
devoured within the hour. It's too bad we don't have smell-o-vision
and taste-o-vision at FOX 7 so we can show you just how tasty these
are.
The Kolache Shoppe is open every Monday-Saturday
at 7AM to serve you. Find a reason, any reason, to get over to this
Austin and Czech tradition on Burnet Road. See you there.
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