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The first thing you'll notice
about this week's restaurant, Kenichi, at 5th and Colorado, is that
it's cool. That fact is inescapable. It literally exudes coolness. From
the sophisticated Dick Clark design, to the striking decoration of the
interior, to the beautiful people seen mingling at the bar, Kenichi
has snatched the cachet crown from Sullivan's.
But cachet (just ask Planet Hollywood) in and of
itself, will not sustain a restuarant over time. Only good food will.
And Kenichi delivers on that note.
Named for chef Kenichi Kenada, the Austin restaurant
is a replication of the very popular original in Aspen Colorado. The
fare is a blend of Japanese, American, and various ports of call in
between. And of course, there is sushi, fresh off the plane every day.
But in my opinion, this place is less about sushi and more about some
incredibly inventive menu items.
I have tried the yellowtail tuna on two occasions
and it has been delicious. The flesh is firm with a wonderful flavor
when dipped in the mixture of soy and wasabi. Also the fresh salmon
which I found to be quite good. The California roll was equally very
tasty. I did not care as much for the octopus.
But as I said earlier,the menu items have amazed
me with their virtuosity and quality. The Honey glazed ribs served with
soy honey and a five spice glaze are exceptional. I had the same reaction
to the Gyoza potstickers and the Shitake Negimaki which features Shitake
mushrooms and green onions rolled in delectable beef and grilled with
a temptingly sweet unagi-garlic sauce.
Under the Light Entreees, you must try the Asian
roasted duck wrapped in scezhuan pancakes. And I mean this sincerely,
do not miss sampling the dynamite shrimp.
Get Kenichi to tell you the story of how this incredibly
wonderful tasting treat came to life and you'll enjoy it even more!
I have never cared much for tempura dishes until
I tried Kenichi's shrimp and vegetable tempura. The batter is so flavorful
and the tastes are seared in by the coating. Not greasy at all... but
fresh and highly appealing to the palate. And you must try the Mustard
Rubbed Colorado Lamb Chops. These Chops have an immedaite "ahhhh"
effect on the diner and are among the two or three best in central Texas
and have an absolutely marveous taste and texture. I've had them twice
and am totally smitten. I love the presentation as well, and the celeriac-ginger
mashed potatoes and baby bok choy (cabbage) make the perfect accompaniment.
There are many brands of premium sake to choose
from (a bit on the pricey side for my taste) and a very nice and thoughtful
wine list as well.
Kenichi may not maintain the coolness mantle
forever, because as we know, that's ephemeral, it comes and goes. But
if they maintain this level of quality and innovation, they will always
have a following. For Fox 7 News, I'm Rob Balon, dining out.
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