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(December 22, 2006)
Ka Prow is a Pan Asian
restaurant on Howard Lane just east of I-35. The name Pan Asian may
be a bit confusing, but it simply means a variety of dishes encompassing
the totality of the Asian dining experince. But with all due respect
to the notion of totality of cuisines, for me Ka Prow is about the stunning
Thai side of the menu. Chef Opart, who cut his spurs cooking at Thai
Spice, can make Thai dishes that are undeniably outstanding. That is
not to denigrate his other offerings, it's just that the Thai dishes
are so damned good....
Where to start? How about with the Curries? They are flat out sensational.
The Panang Curry which I like to get with Tofu has a searing flavor
that encompasses the gamut of the Thai taste experiences. Not hot enough
to bring tears, except perhaps those of joy from the great taste. And
the Duck Curry with a red curry sauce will make you a believer. The
grilled duck breast goes so perfectly with the curry that one senses
some kind of mystic preordainment.
The noodle dishes take on a life of their own under the able hand of
Opart. I love the Pad kee mao. This features stir-fried flat noodles
with onions and tomatoes and a wonderfully mellow yet tangy flavor.
And the Pad Thai, the classic Thai noodle dish, stir fried with egg,
bean sprouts, ground peanuts and scallions is a light yet very plesaing
dish. Opart's version of this is one of the best I've tasted in Cenral
Texas.
You want more. I'm just getting warmed up. The Pad Prik King will make
you a believer in the subtle appeal of the green bean. I like this dish
with pork. The red curry sauce and the bell peppers are perfect complements
to the crunchy beans. What flavor! And on the flavor front, nothing
surpasses the Pad Ka Prow. I like this with tangy beef. The stir-fried
mixture of onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, green beans, chili and garlic
will leave you wanting more and considering asking for seconds as I
have done on several occasions with this dish.
And for sheer audacity of flavor and innovation, you must sample the
Jumping Shrimp. This Opart original features stir-fried shrimp in a
Tom Yum sauce with zuccini, mushrooms and a melange of vegetables. The
Jumping Shrimp will leave you breathless but also pleasantly grounded
in the world of O's flavors. And moving from jumping to crying, a great
choice is the Tiger Cried. This streak, simply but beautifully charbroiled
with a zesty Thai sauce will awaken the most dormant taste buds. It's
hard to believe how tender a piece of beef can be in the hands of Opart.
Steak lovers will really enjoy this dish.
So venture over to KaProw this weekend or anytime over the holidays.
This is a chef at the top of his game.
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