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(September
11, 2009)
Those of you who have followed this reviewer know
of my fondness for Mexican Breakfasts. I make a pretty mean breakfast
taco myself so I am not inclined to give praise lightly. That brings
us to the subject of this week's review: Joe's Bakery on E 7th. Lost
in the dusty eons of years passed is the actual date of the genesis
of Joe's but suffice to say they've been at it doe mucho tiempo.
The clientele is mostly latino with a sprinkling of anglos and African
americans. And every day, from 7am to 3pm, they pour into this little
joint with such fervor that there's usually a wait.
And worth the time I might add. The Bakery doesn't do that much for
me but the breakfasts and lunches are flat out tasty. Which leads us
to the Huevos Rancheros: in my humble opinion, the best in Austin. There
are many stellar aspects of this dish: incredibly flavorful and mellow
frijoles, beautiful bacon dipped in an egg wash and then in a flour
batter and deep fried (Dios mio!) eggs the way you like them (I recommend
once over) and an exceptionally piquant ranchera sauce that gives this
dish an amazing patina of flavor. The accompanying flour tortillas are
also hand made. And then there's the Pork Chop Breakfast. I get hungry
just saying that. The chops are fried to a crispy finish and are served
with eggs, crispy home fries and those killer frijoles. If you like
Chorizo (Mexican sausage) then try the scrambled eggs with which blend
beautifully with the spicy sausage and again the refried beans. The
Chicharron breakfast (fried porkskins) might not at first glance seem
that appealing, but I'll tell you it really works. The crispy chicharrones
really work with eggs (who knew?) and make for an unusual yet very tasty
breakfast.
That brings us to another dish for which Joe's is very well known: the
menudo. I'm not talking about the Puerto Rican boy band whose members
were forced to retire when they reached age 16, but the real deal: tripe
or the stomach of the cow. Menudo originates from the Sonoran region
of Mexico and was a dish literally borne out of necessity. The French
even have a version but I like Joe's better. The essential part of good
menudo is to cook the three disparate elements: the tripe, the posole
and the chile separately blending only just before serving. And gringos
can like menudo as well.
Of course there are myriad other offerings at Joe's. Great tacos, queso,
and even hot cakes. But for me, the key to this joint that dates back
to the 1930's, is that you can get breakfast all day long. And that
is very good news.
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