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(January 11, 2008)
Here's a bit of trivia for you: Jeffery's. the 32-year-old reigning
king of bistro dining in Austin located on West Lynn off W. 6th St.,
was actually named after Jeff Weinberger, owner of the Shoreline
Grill, and a former partner of owners and founders Ron and
Peggy Weiss. I get that question a lot so I thought I'd address it.
Now on to the fundamentally more important question: what does Jeffrey's
do to retain its "must visit" status among Austin foodies?
In a word, Jefrrey's delivers a consistent quality of excellence. The
restaurant has been firmly entrenched in our Top
20 since we started it severn years ago. And the fact that
it lures large numbers of celebrites and power brokers adds
to the unmistakeable aura of sophisticatioin that surrounds the
place. Dinner at Jeffrey's is almost always not just dinner, but an
event unto itself. And that speaks volumes.
No meal at Jeffrey's would be complete, in my opinion, without the Crispy
Oysters on Yucca Root Chips with a Habanero Honey Aioli. This appetizer
provides an immediate flavor rush that not only pleases but also primes
the palate for the more substantive fare to follow. It's a classic.
And at the risk of distressing the animal rights crowd, the foie gras
at Jeffrey's is absoloutely stunning. Seared with poached pear or offered
as a smooth pate, the flavors are mesmerizingl It's as good as anything
you'll try in austin. I am also very taken with the Duck Spring Rolls
with a zesty Daikon slaw and a plum sauce. The texture is crisp and
very appealing and the first bit says it all. You are immersed in an
amalgam of interesting and comforting (from the duck) flavors.
And you will not have become an official foodie until you've sampled
the Chilled Avocado and Cucumber Soup with Basil Pesto and crab. What
imagination in this dish! And the basil pesto takes it over the top.
Such a deft touch from Chef Alma.Alcocer-Thomas (who took over the helm
two years ago from David Garrido).
Jeffrey's offers entrees that have larger sizes and also their smaller
Bistro selections. Let's sample from both. The Balsamic Short Ribs with
Cheddar Potatoes and Garlic sauce have achieved legendary status with
the Balon family. You want an array of richly satisfying flavors along
with bit of zip fromt the balsamic: well this dish grants your every
wish. Tender is the operative word for the ribs and the cheddar potatoes
are perfect. The Premium Tenderloin is also a must try. It
tops the price list and for good reason. Sensational flavors from this
prime cut and a carrot and pea risotto that goes beyond perfectly complementing
the meat. Finish with an amazing confit of wild mushrooms and you have
culinary bliss.
From the Bisto selections, it's hard to pass on the Kobe Hangar Steak
with pommes frittes.The Hangar Steak is a thick strip of beef fron the
underside of the cow. It can be tough if not prepared with precision
and Chef Alma nails it! The fries and the chimichurri are the perfect
complements to this delightful dish. We have also really enjoyed the
Basil Gnocchi. This is a light dish with an abundance of serious
flavor that offsets the mozzarella and the red pepper sherry coulis.The
key: nothing doughy at all about the gnocchi. Just great taste.
The wine list at Jeffrey's, under the tutelage of Greg Steiner, is exceptional.
I was especially impressed with the reds. Beautiful choices. And the
service has been on of the place's hallmarks for years. Still good as
ever.
It is said that many things improve with age: a good cheese, a fine
wine. How about a restaurant that has gracefully aged into its 30's
with no hint whatsoever of a mid-life crisis or let down. Jeffrey's
just seems to be getting better. This place rocks.
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