(December 7, 2007)

The proprietors of the newly-opened Imperia on Colorado at 4th in the Warehouse District have their mission statement clearly defined: introduce vibe dining to Austin. Vibe dining is the notion of offering a seamlessly integrated menu of dining, drinking and socializing: a club where function and form effortlessly blend together to create a captivating evening. It's modeled after the hottest restaurant in America, Tao in Las Vegas. The cuisine is Pan-Asian fusion crafted by Chef Joe Tellus who came to Austin from the Vegas Tao.

Managing Partner C.K. Chin

Tellus leads off his menu with a sampling of both Dim Sum and Small Plates offerings. And there is serious creativity at work here. The Buttery Edamame Potstickers have a flavor that is at once captivating and comforting. Served with a wasabi vinaigrette, I have not seen their equal on any Asian menu in the city. These are a must try. The Firecracker Shrimp in a sweet lime chili present beautifully and have a sweet yet fiery taste that make them irresistible. The Scallion Pancakes are a cross between the traditional scallion cakes usually accompanied with just soy sauce and Moo Shoo Duck. The shredded hoisin duck adds a wonderful flavor to this very tasty blend of two traditional dishes. Another interesting appetizer was the Chicken Dumplings in a shitake ginger broth. This was a nice dish: a trifle bland for my taste but my wife found the flavor very much to her liking.

Moving on to more substantive fare, there are some dishes that offer up an amalgam of tastes and beautiful textures. Let's begin with the Imperia Dragon Rib. Chef Tellus marinates the short rib in a yakimiso sauce for three days. It's roasted and then braised with hot chicken stock yielding a flavor that will blow you away. My normally distempered Chocolate Lab was even nice to me after we let her gnaw on the remains. The Korean Ribeye is marinated for three hours in soy, garlic, sugar and rice vinegar. It's then grilled and served with wok-flashed chive blossoms. Again, instantly identifiable flavors that linger on the pallet like good Bordeaux. And finally, try the amazing Miso Lacquered Chilean Sea Bass. The fish is tender and full of pristine flavors. The accompanying bok choy (Chinese cabbage) is wok-seared and perfectly accents the fish.

And there's more. The sides themselves are good enough to merit their own paragraph. The Hot and Sour Japanese Eggplant is a work of lip pursing art. Those who do not relish the spicier side of life may find this dish over the top. For me, it was at the top. And the Butter Poached Lobster Mashers which we had with the Imperia Dragon Rib were stunning. The idea of mashed potatoes infused with butter and lobster is really quite eloquent: the taste matched the concept. Wow!

When your dinner is over, you can drift over to the bar area for a night cap or as I have seen many do at Imperia, flow into the socializing lounge area under the big Buda. IF this is vibe dining, then I feel the vibe. I am in tune. You should be as well at Imperia.

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