 |
|
|
|
(May 20, 2005)
There's nothing I like more
than a restaurant with a great view of a body of water.The former owner
of the Sunset Grill off 620 overlooking Lake Travis had the right idea
for a location. He just didn't get the food part right. When new owners
purchased the place in 1995 and rechristened it the Iguana Grill, they
not only contined to pay homage to the amazing view, but this time they
got the food right. Actually, they got it VERY right.
The theme is Mexican and Chef Roho has rolled out a menu that impresses
with its authenticty and quality of flavors. The appetizers illustrate
this perfectly. The queso, with a seamless blend of white cheddar and
New Mexican green chiles is very hard to resist. I found myself coaxing
the last drop out of the bowl with a piece of my tortilla. Almost a
perfect flavor along with a texture that all quesos should emulate.
The Ceviche, made in this case with marinated tuna, had a piquant yet
very pristine flavor. I found it to be quite enjoyable. The Carnitas
a la Parilla, a dish featuring marinated beefsteak and chicken and served
with a robust chipotle sauce, had stunningly comfortable flavors. The
beef was beautifully flavored although I thought the chicken was over
cooked and could have been more tender. I also tried the Quesadillas
on a previous visit and they were at the top of the ch art for that
genre. The cheese and chiles seeemd to cleeve to the tortillas as if
the Gods of cuisine had somehow ordained this union.
The entress are equally creative. Love the Flautas. The wonderful grilled,
rolled tortillas served over a charred tomatilla sauce and covered with
sour cream are exquisito. Crunchy and full of character. Another exemplary
dish is the Enchiladas de Espinica y Hongos. These are really compelling
enchiladas filled with spinach and mushrooms and finished with a cream
sauce made of poblanos. Every bite of this dish was a pleasure (the
balance was amazing) and the presentation was beautiful. Still another
entree that deserves kudos is the Enchiladas Suisas con Camarones. This
dish is rich with wonderful flavors of tortillas stuffed with seasoned
shrimp and covered with sour cream. Similar to a favorite dish of mine
at El Sol y La Luna, but in my opinion, but I think the Iguana Grill's
version is even better. I should also point out the chicken enchiladas
with mole or Enchiladas de Pollo con Mole. I am not, as a rule, a fan
of mole. Just can't get past the bitter chocolate aftertaste. I am pleased
to report, however, that Iguana's mole is a bit milder and somewhat
more nuanced on the taste front. Were I to become a mole consumer, I
would start here.
And keeping with the theme of authenticity, they make their own Flan
here at Iguana Grill. It has a heavier, more dense texture that's very
appealing. Also a lovely taste. And do try the Top Shelf Margarita.
I found mine to be the perfect accompaniment to the rich and varied
fare from the kitchen. The Iguana Grill tiene diez anos and is going
strong. The food, the view, the lake, Chef Roho, they all combine to
make for a very pleasant lunch or dinner. ON Highway 620, not far from
the dam. For Fox 7 news, I'm Rob Balon.
|
