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(January 5, 2007)
South Austin got an early Christmas present last
year from Bick Brown in the form of the opening of the Hyde Park Bar
and Grill at Westgate adjacent to Central Market. The original store
on Duval has been rocking for 24 years. And for those anxiously awaiting
this opening, it seemed like it might take another 24 years to get it
done. But all's well that ends well, and things are, well, "well"
at the new south location.
The appetizers at this tastefully appointed restaurant (formerly the
regrettable and forgetable Grandy's) are as well conceived as they are
delicious and inviting. I love the Artichoke Hearts. They are marinated,
lightly breaded and fried, and the flavor is rich and delightful. The
Hyde Park sauce is perfect. And ditto for Hyde Park's paean to dim sum,
the Steamed Dumplings. Filled with chicken, cabbage, ginger and scallions,
the dumplings are a treat with the Thai Sauce. They are on the light
side as dumplings go which is refreshing. Another interesting dish is
the Sweet Corn and Cheese Tamales. This vegan dish features a rocking
masa and a lovely mixture of kernel corn, carrots and spices. It has
a decidedly mellow flavor but is not too sweet (often the downfall of
this dish).
The burgers and sandwiches at Hyde Park are equally worthy of your consideration.
I really enjoy the Kobe Beef Burger. This 8oz patty comes on a foccaca
roll along with all the fixings. The outcome is tender and quite tasty.
And it's mandatory to accompany the burger with the famous Hyde Park
fries. And I'm also very partial to the Garden Burger when I want something
lighter. Made of grains, veggies and cheeses, the burger has a distinctively
appealing flavor. Vegans will love it. And I find it hard to resist
the ultimate comfort sandwich, the Pimento Cheese and Cucumber. My mother
used to make these for me as a kid, and mom would be quite pleased to
see Hyde Park carrying on this tasty tradition.
The entrees are really varied and have unique taste components. The
Citrus Marinated Flat Iron Steak is a nice turn on this popular cut.
The marinade of orange and lemon juices, sherry, garlic and soy sauces
provides a steak with a really compelling flavor. Tender too.
The Sauteed Crab Cakes are a slam dunk of great tastes and textures.
I love the presentation as the cakes are served over rosemary new potatoes
in a nice corn broth.
And no visit to Hyde Park should be completed without sampling the Dijon
Artichoke Chicken. The Dijon Sauce is the key and they have nailed it.
The roasted garlic mashers are the logical and delicioius complement.
Hyde Park Bar and Grill has become a welcome addition to South Austin.
The reasons, as I have just demonstrated, are numerous. Too numerous
in fact to document with one review. Which is why I suggest you visit
this restaurant often, as I do.
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