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(September 29, 2006)
As most of you know, I
rarely review chain restaurants. But with owner Tim Bartlett at the
helm, Houston’s, at Anderson and Burnet hums along like a finely
tuned precision BMW. The food and service are consistently good, the
ambience is most pleasant, and the fact of the matter is that Houston’s
is edging seriously close to a spot in our Top 20.
The appetizers reflect the originality and craftsmanship
that come out of the kitchen. Also impressive is that they nail each
dish despite having to produce high quantities throughout the day. I
really enjoy the Home Smoked Salmon. It comes to the table pink and
luscious served with toast points and an aoli sauce. Each bite is a
delight. The flavor is, as advertised, on the smoky side, but not overwhelmingly
so. I also like the Chicago Style Spinach Dip. Now it seems that almost
every restaurant has a spinach dip these days, but Houston’s is
hardly run of the mill. It’s got a cream sauce and they use Reggiano
parmesano. The taste makes this a very difficult dish to pass by. And
can we talk about the salads? I love the Thai Steak and Noodle Salad.
The beautifully seared flavor of the marinated steak with the noodles,
avocadoes, mango and basil make for heady bursts of flavor. Put this
one on your list. Also really like the Club Salad. The key is the convergence
of the crispy chicken and bacon around the avocado and fresh greens.
The homemade croutons are a nice touch as well.
And while it may be a seasonal offering, make a
mental note. Next summer when artichoke season rolls around, do get
the Whole Grilled Artichokes at Houston’s. The taste absolutely
floored me.
And the entrees at Houston’s run the gamut
from burgers to prime rib. The hard part is deciding what to have. On
the burger-sandwich side, I like the Cheeseburger. It’s made from
ground chuck roast and the flavor is unremitting. The toasted egg bun
is also a plug. And I am always drawn to the Grilled Pork Chops. They
are double-cut and hardwood grilled to a sizzling perfection. The tastes
of this dish are exceptional: mellow but with a little zest as well.
Very satisfying. And don’t overlook the Knife and Fork BBQ’d
Ribs. I’ve had this dish several times and the pork ribs have always
been amazingly tender with a sauce that amplifies the flavor of the
meat. The accompanying fries are a nice complement as well. And when
they’re available, try the Crab Cakes. They are all most definitely
about the crab, and not about the filler. The flavor, with a pommeray
sauce, is pristine and every potential taste benefit that can be derived
from these denizens of the deep is realized. My hat’s off to the
chef. There is also a thoughtful list of decent wines available by the
glass. That’s a nice touch.
Houston’s is at Anderson and Burnet and is
open for lunch and dinner. Sometimes, lunch is so popular that sometimes
it’s hard to tell when it ends and when dinner begins. Suffice
to say, get there early for either one. You will enjoy.
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