(August 3, 2007)

Many regular readers of this site know of my long-term affinity for the inestimable talents of Hoover Alexander. The man knows his way around a southern kitchen to be sure. From Toulouse, to Good Eats to Hoover's Cooking, he has delighted the palates of thousands of Austinites. So when Hoover does something new, like begin breakfast service, it merits more than a bit of enthusiasm on my part. When you taste Hoover's breakfast, I am sure you'll agree.

Let's begin with the Hoe Cake. This takes its name from an old southern tradition of field hanks literally cooking the cakes on a hoe or shovel handle while out working. The mixture of flour, cornmeal, salt and water provides a crisp texture and a very appealing taste. In the hands of Hoover, the Hoe Cake becomes something very special. With butter and syrup, it is as good as one can get in the pancake genre. Also try the Sweet Potato cakes. It is said that Southern girls love these. And who I am to argue? I love them as well. The flavor is surprisingly unsweet and therein lies the appeal.

Hoover's breakfast specialties are a marvel of innovation and execution. The Shrimp n' Grits presents a huge platter of creamy grits stop of which sits a generous serving of shrimp etouffee. This is a very filling dish: but the flavor sensations provided by the contrast between the grits and the etouffee are quite exceptional. Another fun item is the Breakfast Muffuleta: a variation on the good old fried egg sandwich. This is a huge portion that when served with home fries makes completion dubious. But who cares? Get the rest to go. You'll enjoy the layers of taste. And the Migas are quite interesting. They have a little more southern bite to them than I'm used to at Tex Mex places, but the flavor is not at all compromised.

I love the Eggs Cajun-Holla. This is Hoover's version of Egg's Benedict and it utilizes think-sliced Cajun ham atop biscuits and smoked red bell pepper hollandaise. The hollandaise is piquant yet broadly comforting. The dish works on at least three different levels. And who can resist the Eggs and Elgin sausage? I like mine over easy nestled across the top of the sausage. Add a side of Cheddar Garlic Grits and you have an amazing repast. Likewise, don't hesitate to try any of Hoover's Taco Plates. I'm partial to the two eggs with chorizo, cheddar cheese, and spicy potatoes.

And no visit to Hoover's is complete without the Chicken n Dumplings (a dying art form in central Texas) paired with the pancake of your choice. The dumpling are texturally perfect with just the right hint of flavor from the chicken. I would opt for the Hoe Cake with this one. With the gravy, the need for syrup is removed and the flavor sensations change completely.

Omelettes range from the traditional ham and cheese to my favorite: the Spinach, Bacon, Mushroom, Swiss cheese and Green Onions with sour cream.

I don't want to create the impression that breakfast at Hoover's is one gigantic improvisation: there are plenty of bacon and eggs once over-type dishes available. In fact, the menu offerings will please the adventurous in your party to the more cautious. But the operative word is pleasing. A lot of that goes on at Hoover's Cooking. Breakfast is available from 7-11am weekdays and from 8-11:30am weekends.

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