(April 15, 2005)

Green Pastures has had almost iconic status in the Austin restaurant world, both for its colorful and fascinating history along with its remarkably consistent and endearing cuisine.

Opened in 1945 in an antebellum mansion replete with roving peacocks and bamboo trees, Green Pastures is one of the city's most intimate and romantic restaurants. But intimacy and romance alone don't keep core customers returning: the food, under Chef Charles Bloemsma, has more than a little something to do with it.

The chef favors freshness and flavor, and that passion manifests itself throughout the menu. Consider the appetizers. The Green Pastures Crab Cakes are the epitome of taste. The dill cream and the lemon caper butter add to a dish this is, to quote Robert Palmer, "simply irresistible". The Grilled Brie is another favorite. The herbs from the chef's garden awaken this dish and the sugared hazelnuts and raspberry coulis blend with the brie to make each bite a unique pleasure. And you seafood fans must try the Gulf Coast Starter. This is Chef Bloemsma at his creative best. Three diverse shellfish: shrimp, crawfish, and soft shell crab are presented with jerk molasses, tequila cocktail, and a chipotle remoulade. The shrimp are quite good, the soft shell crab is exquisitely fried to golden satistaction, but the crawfish fritters lift the dish over the top. I love them. And what's not to like in a dish with a name like Crispy Exotic Mushrooms? We begin with Blue Foot mushrooms (sometimes Mamekeo), deep fried in canola oil with a tempura batter, and serve in a dressing with miso, soy and tofu. Seriously good stuff. And do try the Vine Ripened Tomatoes and Fresh Mozzarella salad. This dish is pristine: wonderful tomatoes, fresh mozzarella cheese, with olive oil, hibiscus, and macadamia nuts.

Some of the entrees at Green Pastures change as the seasons evolve. And among my current favorites are: Sesame Salmon with Tempura Tiger Prawns. Nothing crouching or hidden about this dish. The flavor just jumps out at you. And the wasabi potatoes are the perfect complement. Another dish high on my flavor chart is the Veal Stuffed with Shrimp. I love Chef's use of goat cheese and Alambic brandy in this one. Marvelous texture and wonderful mid palate taste rush. And do try the Texas Redfish with Blue Crab. Redfish has made a comeback as of late and I am glad. This is somewhat reminiscent of a dish I used to love at the late, lamented Paggi House. The fish and the crab and perfect together and the sweet corn and leeks lend a nice touch as well. Vegans will love the Gilled Tofu with Spinach. Texture is critical with this dish and the chef nails it. The sweet potato and mushroom ragout is delightful and the hint of truffle oil is another nice touch.

So do what generations of Austin foodies have been doing. Head out to Green Pastures and have an elegant lunch or dinner. For business, or, well, monkey business, it works equally well.