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(January 7, 2004)
The Frisco Shop, on Burnet Lane at Koenig, is the last of the famous
Nighthawk chain of restaurants begun by Harry Akin back in 1932. If
the term venerable can apply to a restaurant here in Austin, then The
Frisco Shop is probably a candidate. Much like that other timeworn tradition,
Dirty Martin's, the employees at Frisco have some serious lineage. Many
have logged 20 years of service or more, a key factor in building the
loyal customer base that serves Frisco's business model so well.
The Frisco is probably most famous for the legendary
"Frisco" burger. This burger has sustained generations of
Austin burger fans. It must be the special relish and dressing that
gives it that unique kick. Lord knows I've certainly downed more than
my fair share of Friscos over the years. Nor can we forget the stellar,
seasoned Chicken Fried Chicken, which has brought a smile to many a
face. But I'd like to take more of a breakfast angle for this review.
North Austin is rather thin when it comes to breakfast joints of any
substance. How does the Frisco muster up in that area so crucial to
so many Austinites?
On the whole, breakfast at Frisco is pretty good.
I am perhaps biased by my fond memories of the late Nighthawk on S.
Congress and their fabulous omelets. But I was disappointed to see there
were no omelets on the Frisco menu. So I opted on the first visit for
their famous "eggs decorated" (two eggs decorated with Night
Hawk chili and seasoned pinto beans). I was under whelmed with the dish.
I just don't get the eggs with chili pairing. But I observed several
folks around me ordering the dish and wolfing it down with obvious gusto.
It may be a function of my Texas roots not going back far enough to
appreciate this fare. But it just didn't work for me. The biscuits and
gravy (a wonderful sausage gravy) were a treat, however. This dish is
a must for any proper Texas eatery that wants to specialize in breakfast.
And the Frisco delivered! I also tried an order of breakfast tacos.
They were enormous and delicious; among the best I've had in the city.
The eggs, sausage, and cheese were blended perfectly and were not overcooked,
as one often finds with breakfast tacos. I finished off with a slice
of the coffee cake, which I found to be quite good. Nice consistency
to the cake and a very sweet and rewarding flavor.
On the next visit, I tried a more conventional order
of eggs over easy along with hash browns and toast with a side buttermilk
pancake. I debated on whether or not to get the grits as opposed to
the hash browns and the counter waitperson obligingly got me a small
sample of the grits. They were rather tasteless and somewhat watery.
Had I ordered a bowl of them I would have been vastly disappointed.
The hash browns, on the other hand, were sensational. They were crisp
and savory. The eggs and sausage were fine. The toast could have been
fresher but it was OK. When the pancake arrived, I was busy reading
my morning paper. I reached for what I thought was the syrup dispenser
sitting next to the pancakes and began to pour. Milk, instead of syrup
began running onto the pancake. Suddenly, my pancake appeared to be
dusted with a fresh coast of snow. The waitperson, who should have immediately
offered to make me a new pancake (since she had neglected to place the
syrup next to my pancakes), instead offered a napkin so I could dab
the milk off. Dabbing concluded, she then brought me the proper container
of syrup, and I enjoyed a tasty, if somewhat soggy, pancake.
The coffee was on both occasions was strong and tasty. And with the
exception of several faux pas by my counter waitress on the second visit,
the service at The Frisco was cordial and enthusiastic. The wait staff
obviously knows many of their customers; hence, the inclination to linger
that extra moment and inquire about the family or to share some chit
chats unique to long-time acquaintances. I think it lends a nice atmosphere
to the place. You don't keep a restaurant going for over 50 years simply
based on food. There are the unique issues of customer service and it's
in that arena that The Frisco excels.
Still, I'd like to see them fix the grits, offer
toast that matches the caliber of most of their other fare, and, for
God's sake, start offering omelets. If you can make scrambled eggs,
you can make an omelet. That being said, you should indulge yourself
with breakfast at The Frisco.
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