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(September 18, 2003)
It seems that lately, the trend has been for owner-operated restaurants
to close and be taken over by some national chain operation. However,
a pleasant contradiction to that chain of events has occurred in Westlake.
Welcome to Four Corners, which has replaced the former Canyon Café,
a chain out of Dallas.
Four Corners takes its name from the only point in the US where four
states actually meet: Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico. Understandably,
given that geography, the food has a southwest flair. But there's Texas
influenced cuisine on the menu as well. So maybe they should have called
it Four Corners and an Extension? Nah. It works well just like it is.
I liked what the new owners have done at Four Corners.
The appetizers are inviting and delicious. I'm very fond of the Queso
which uses a mild Pepper jack cheese and has a nice consistency with
a very interesting flavor. Ditto for the Artichoke and Red Onion Quesadillas.
The artichoke hearts, which are marinated, are combined with Monterrey
jack cheese and red onions in a fresh, flour tortilla. This dish has
a nice, mellow taste; and each time I've tried it, the blend of the
ingredients has been right on. Nothing overwhelms. Instead, they all
complement. And don't forget to try their house salad with a roasted
garlic and lime vinaigrette that just absolutely awakens every taste
bud in your mouth. Great flavor.
On the carnivorous side, I have several recommendations.
First, try the baby back ribs. These have a wonderful flavor and are
very tender. Chef Phillip mixes a unique rub of cumin, coreander, salt,
black pepper, and cinammon along with a mild BBQ sauce. The meat cooks
for 3-4 hours in that sauce and the ribs just fall off the bone. And
the corn on the cob they serve with this dish is a delight: grilled
on the broiler for about ten minutes and then coated with garlic butter.
Seriously good. Another favorite is the Lime Chipotle Pork tenderloin.
The pork is marinated in garlic, chipotle and lime juice. Again, very
engaging flavor and texture. Served with delicious roasted potatoes,
this dish works at many levels.
You must also try the New Mexico Enchiladas. They
are topped with a piquant poblano pepper cream sauce. The enchiladas
are stuffed with chicken, jack cheese, and diced onions. The result
is a spicy, but not overly so, and very tasty entrée. And for
a little more verve, sample the Chile Relleno. The poblano pepper is
stuffed with diced chicken, onions, jack cheese and beans and topped
with a luscious cream sauce made from jalapenos. Nice dish.
I give Four Corners a lot of credit for innovation and also for hard
work. They had some problems with the queso and spinach and artichoke
dip early on. But they preserved and those dishes are now among my favorites.
I suspect that this owner-operated restaurant will likewise become one
of your favorites. Tell 'em Rob Balon sent you.
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