(January 14, 2005)

The beauty of a steakhouse like Flemings on 2nd St. across from the Convention Center is that is that like the prime beef it serves, the aging process has made things there immeasurably better.

I was somewhat critical of Flemings at their opening in June of 2001. But that initial skepticism has long since given way to unmitigated admiration, both for the quality of the cuisine and the service.

The place is warm and inviting and yes, full of actually friendly staff who seem genuinely glad to see you. (You know what I mean there.) The wine list is thoughtful and pretty fairly priced. And the food, well it just rocks.

While I always begin with an irresistible basket of their home made chips, my favorite appetizer is the Wicked Cajun BBQ Shrimp. Butter and garlic are the operative words here and the taste is without compromise, a tip-of-the-tongue in your face flavor rush. And I love it. Make sure you save some of their pre-buttered baguettes to dip up the sauce.

And the Breaded Brie, beautifully offset with red jalapeno jelly and sliced apples is equally tasty. This is a very nice appetizer.

I also like the Crab Cakes. Had them on New Year's eve and they did not fail to impress. They are whimsically crispy but laden with serious lump crabmeat and taste. With roasted red pepper and lime butter. A must try.

And rare is the evening I dine at Flemings without a Wedge Salad. I alter mine slightly, substituting crumbled goat cheese for bleu cheese. And the red onions, the crisp iceberg lettuce, fiery red tomatoes and a wonderful vinaigrette make this just about perfect.

The entrees, whichever course I've taken thru the menu over the past year, have been uncommonly good. The Bone-in Ribeye is one of the star attractions. 22 ounces of prime love, it is beautifully marbled (a key point with me) and paired, say, with a glass of Silver Oak Cabernet, well, that is the dining equivalent of rapture. The 20 oz Bone-in NY Strip has also been terrific. I suggest a shade north of medium rare, with a thoughtful béarnaise sauce. Ahhh. Equally good has been the Veal Chop, a broiled 14oz. mouth watering proposition if there ever was one. And Fleming's turn on the classic Beef Wellington, they call it Beef Flemington which features a tender filet wrapped in a pastry puff, is delightful. My friend Martha had this for dinner on New Year's Eve and loved it.

And finally, for the seafood lovers, Flemings' does not leave you unrewarded. The seared Curry Scallops, wrapped in bacon and served with a citrus butter sauce has a very comforting and sensually appealing vibe. And the Alaskan Steamed King Crab Legs, served with drawn butter and expertly cracked so you don't have to do battle with them are laden with flavor and full of that ethereal taste until the last bite.

I mentioned the service earlier. It is truly impeccable at Flemings. And you would count yourself fortunate to have you party served by Paul, one of Austin's finest waiters.

Flemings is for grownups. And its nice to have a few of these kinds of places around. On 2nd St., next to Roy's, with valet parking. Come on over and say hi if you see me. I go there a lot.

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