Finn & Porter
(512) 493-4900
500 E. 4th St.
-website-



Daily:
5pm-11pm
   


(March 30, 2007)

Finn and Porter is the signature restaurant at the downtown Hilton. And by signature, it is apparent that the creative stamp of chef Chris Bauer is all over this dining emporium. Hotel restaurants are more difficult to execute because there are always two disparate audiences: hotel guests and the local dining community. Both must be served. But Bauer, a Barton Creek alumnus, is more than up to the challenge.

Our last dinner was reflective of his unique style. I love the idea that the restaurant has a full-service sushi bar. How nice to begin with some nigiri sushi to awaken the taste buds. The hamachi, maguro, and ebi were all beautifully fresh and pristine. Lovely flavors there.

And new on the menu is the Chardonnary Simmered Price Edward Island Black Mussels. The flavor in this dish is simply stunning. The mussels are steamed in chardonnary which is reduced down. Herbs are then added and the sauce is emulsified with foie gras butter. Delightful.

We also went back to an old favorite, the Lobster Dumplings. These pan- steamed beauties are delicate and delicious in a ponzu reduction with scallions and shitake mushrooms. Another absolute must at Finn and Porter is the Pan Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras. The seared foie gras, in and of itself is delicious, but Bauer further enhances the flavor by deftly weaving in a yogurt pana cotta, brioche croutons tossed with greens and aged balsamic vinegar. And Bauer again demonstrated his dexterity with a smashing Lobster Bisque. The key is the subtle use of chervil, often known as "gourmet's parsley" and just a hint of sherry. It's just about my favorite lobster bisque in Texas.

The entrees change daily and are based upon seasonality, availability, and the creative moods of the chef. The Shiso Glazed Japanese Sea Bass was quite compelling. These fish are not harvested but rather caught on long lines. That makes a huge difference in the texture and flavor. Bauer broils the "butter fish" and serves with a cold avocado boule with sushi rice and spicy tuna. Sauteed greens further complement. I could eat this on every visit and be entirely happy. You want creativity? How about the Trio of Rabbit, Duck and Pheasant Confits? This dish takes an eternity to make but this is not love's labor lost. Each confit is presented separately with caramelized onion and brioche bread pudding along with the crowing touch of a raspberry gastrique.

Meat lovers will enjoy the Beef Tenderloin Tornedo Rossini. The flavors sparkle in this dish as we are tempted with the most sumptuous cut of prime along with seared foie gras, ethereal bacon chive potatoes, and just for the accent, a dab or truffle oil.

So there you have it. Finn and Porter, has evolved into a seasoned and confident restaurant, capable of great subtlety and nuance and most importantly, consistency. They've also reconfigured the acoustics of the dining room so it's easier on the ears. They are headed for our Top 20.

Top of page

 

 

©2001 DiningOutWithRobBalon.com
Advertise on DiningOutWithRobBalon.com

Site designed by